Tall granite spires rise up out of rugged glaciers in a dramatic scene, enticing you to get a closer look. Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciers has some of the most incredible mountain scenery and is quickly becoming a popular hiking area.
Before climbing Aconcagua, we went on a hiking trip to Patagonia. The small town of El Chalten is located on the edge of Glacier National Park in Argentina and is a great base for hiking in this area. Most trails start right from town, so it’s easy to go on these very scenic day hikes.
Cerro Torre
Trek – 9 km, 200 meters gain
Mountaineers consider Cerro Torre, along with Ama Dablam and Alpamayo, to be the three most beautiful mountains in the world. Having seen many pictures and read about its sordid climbing history, we were extremely excited to see this majestic mountain in person.
The easy trail to Laguna Torre (Tower Lake) leaves from El Chalten and slowly climbs the valley following the Fitz Roy River. We passed through a forest of the interesting Patagonian lenga trees. They have a peculiar appearance as their trunks are gnarled and twisted from the strong Patagonian winds. After about 10 km we reached our first lookout, Mirador del Torre. From there we could see the top of Fitz Roy Range poking above a nearby ridge. At the end of the valley the clouds were brewing, but we could see the base of the Cerro Torre. Our excitement was mounting.
As we got closer, the trees became more sparse and then finally, we can see the moraine. We’re almost there. The clouds seemed to be lifting, so hopefully we’d have a good view.
There are many climbing stories about Cerro Torre. The first ascent is probably the strangest. In 1959 Italian climber Cesare Maestri claims to have summited the seemingly unclimbable Cerro Torre. As Maestri recounts his story he claims that he and his climbing partner, Austrian Toni Egger summited via the north-east ridge. Unfortunately, on the descent, Egger was killed in an avalanche. The camera was lost with Egger therefore, there was no proof other than Maestri’s word. Most people didn’t believe that they had done what no other climber could. This assent was immediately shrouded in controversy.
After many years and numerous attempts, no one else had summited. In 1970 Maestri returned to Cerro Torre. The Italian climber brought the climb to unthinkable extremes. He and a large team of climbers brought an air compressor and drilled hundreds of bolts into the rock for protection. They dragged a large metal cage up the mountain to sleep in as a bivy. This time they were attempting a different route on the south-east side. Using thousands of meters of fixed ropes, he managed to get all the way up the mountain, stopping just below the famous mushroom summit. He claimed the snow cap is not really part of the mountain so called this his second summit. On his descent he chopped off the top few bolts to ensure no one could follow his route. Since then mountaineering tools and skills have improved dramatically and Cerro Torre has been successfully climbed. A lot of research has gone into determining if in fact he could have summited in 1959. Climbers read his description of the route and retraced his steps. They were able to conclude that Maestri and Egger did not summit in 1959, but rather made up a remarkable story. Cerro Egger, one of the peaks on this mountain is named in the honour Toni Egger.
With our anticipation high, we climbed up and over the moraine to see Laguna Torre with Cerro Torre’s glacier spilling into its far end. There was a lot of cloud, but enough of the distinctive shear wall was visible so we knew we were looking at Cerro Torre. It was very cold and windy with rain always threatening. We were determined to see this beauty so we found a large boulder that provided shelter from the wind. We waited and waited. Finally after a few cups of hot tea from our thermos, we were rewarded. For about 5 minutes, the clouds opened up and were in awe at the amazing view of the majestic needle peak.
You can walk further along the moraine to reach Mirador Maestri for a closer view, but as it was very cloudy we didn’t think it was worth it. The lookout is named for the infamous Italian climber.
Monte Fitz Roy
Trek – To Poincenot campground – 10 km, 350 meters gain; to Laguna de Los Tres 2 km, 400 m elevation gain.
The granite spires of Monte Fitz Roy are some of the most famous in Patagonia. We decided to take the longer but more scenic route that passes by Lagunas Madre and Hija (Mother and Daughter Lakes). We were glad we made that decision as the views from Laguna Hija are gorgeous. Its set in a large green valley bordered by tall snow-capped peaks.
The trail merged with the main trail where there were a few raised wooden boardwalks to help us to cross a large boggy mallin (wetland). Near Poincenot campsite we had spectacular views of Fitz Roy’s stunning granite spires standing high above. As we got closer, the clouds began to close in.
The best view point, it is at the top of a steep moraine in front of the mountain. The trail is more difficult as it gains 400 meters in only 2 km. Finally, we arrived at the Fitz Roy lookout above Lagunas Sucia and de los Tres. After all of this effort, we barely saw Fitz Roy. The clouds continued to boil around the mountain. From above Laguna Sucia we had obscured views of Fitz Roy massif above the blue glacial waters. Laguna de los Tres was completely frozen and the main Fitz Roy spire was constantly hiding behind the clouds. At least we had seen the giant spires from below.
Getting to El Chalten
The nearest airport is located in El Calafate. There are several flights from Buenas Aires, Bariloche and Ushuaia.
To get from El Calafate – There are several buses every day leaving from the main bus terminal in El Calafate – (2 ½ hours). Or private transfers are available.
To/from Puerto Natales, Chile – Buses travel frequently to El Calafate (5 hrs). Then take a bus to El Chalten.
When to trek
Summer is the best time to travel to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The trekking season runs from October to April. We were there in December and although there were fewer tourists, the skies were usually covered in cloud and there was an unrelenting wind.
Park fees
There are no park fees for Parque Nacional Los Glaciers.
Do I need a guide?
There are many guiding services in El Chalten, but the two hikes that we described are well marked and fairly easy. A guide is not necessary.
Coming Next: Trekking in Chile’s Patagonia
For extra pictures from Argentina click here. For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca
To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
If you like what you read, please comment or share (with credit) using the links below.
Monkey's Tale 
You are brave, well done 🙂 all the best, PedroL
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thank you! Stay safe, Maggie
LikeLike
🙂
LikeLike
This looks and sounds absolutely incredible! Cheers for the awesome content. Greetings from London.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, it is an incredible area. Thanks for reading!
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a great post. I enjoyed the mix of history and travel narrative. As ever, the photos are sunning; those peaks are astonishing!! And the photo of the ice and lake at Monte Fitzroy is simply wonderful! Stay Safe
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, we had been wanting to see these mountains for a long time. They are absolutely incredible to see in person.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I can only imagine!!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Truly a beautiful part of the world. Thanks for sharing. Allan
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you Allan, it definitely is.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I would love to go to Patagonia one day. For now, I’ll just live vicariously through you. Those views look amazing.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Well, hopefully soon we can all travel and you’ll make it down there. Don’t go expecting to escape a Canadian winter though, it’s pretty cold in their summer!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Stunning photography.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thank you, the mountains are very photogenic!
LikeLike
Beautiful! I can’t wait until we can go there.
LikeLiked by 2 people
It really is that gorgeous. I hope you get to go soon too!
LikeLike
Wow, what an adventure and well captured in photographs and described by text.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you! It is an incredible area with stunning mountains. Thanks for reading.
LikeLike
LOVE this post as El Chalten and the hikes we did there were awesome. I’m envious of your hike to Cerro Torre (we had the howling winds and overcast that day). We lingered for a long time hoping it would clear. Still a great day though. The weather on our trek to Laguna de los tres was much better and we had terrific views of Fitz Roy. Interesting that Laguna de los tres was completely frozen but Laguna Sucia was not (deeper maybe?). Really enjoyed your photos!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Isn’t it an amazing area?! Those mountains are shockingly gorgeous. Looking at these pictures, I think we may have just decided on a return trip! Did you go to Torres del Paine in Chile too? That will be our next post.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Absolutely! Those spires are amazing and like nothing I’ve seen before. We didn’t make it to Torres del Paine but I’d love to return to that part of the world. If you return, consider going in early April. The falls colours are out of this world (you may have seen my posts). That’s getting to the end of trekking season but our weather was OK and it wasn’t busy.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I have seen fall pictures from that area. The colours are beautiful. I’ll have to go back and look at your post.
LikeLike
I am seriously drooling here.
We were meant to be going to Patagonia March 12th. It, obviously, didn’t happen… Reading your blog, and knowing Chile is to come, is just killing me! But hey, it’ll happen. And once it does, I’ll have this fabulous post in my favourites plus all the reading I’ve already done and we’re going to trek those parks!
Thanks a lot, Fabrizio
LikeLiked by 1 person
You definitely need to go to Patagonia. The views are unlike anywhere else. Check to see which month has the best weather because its often very cloudy, but I have seen a few blue sky pictures so it’s either luck or a better month. We went in December a couple of years ago. Maggie
LikeLiked by 1 person
Stunning. And what a story about Maestri. It boggles the mind – that he would go to so much trouble to climb it, that he would lie about it, and that he would make sure no-one else could climb it after him (that’s the worst part). Sordid indeed. A story of possession – when you’d think something so natural would encourage a spirit of sharing and joy.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I know it seems ridiculous, but there’s actually a strong competitiveness in professional climbing, especially in the early days.
LikeLike
Brilliant photos and recount.
LikeLike
Enjoyed your pictures and description of these awesome hikes.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you, Patagonia offers many great hiking trails.
LikeLike
Great pictures, thank you ! In El Chalten I spent three days and on two days the weather was perfect. I saw a lot of Mount Fitzroy but not so much of Cerro Torre.
Am looking forward to you post on trekking in Chile’s Patagonia. If you like you might take a look at my post on hiking to La Base de los Torres in Torres del Paine NP. (Sorry in German, but the pics are rather nice!)
https://wanderlustig2019.wordpress.com/2019/01/26/topreiseerlebnis-wandern-in-patagonien/
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, sounds like the weather was on the opposite mountains for you! I just read your Torres del Paine trek (Google Translate). You had great weather for that trek. We had a few good views in that park but not on the day we went to the Torres Base.
LikeLike
Thank you. Actually, I went on that trek on the day with the best weather 😊. I also had strong gusts of wind and heavy rain 😉.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Adore your posts as they take me to places that I’m pretty sure I couldn’t hike to myself. Bravo!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Brandy.
LikeLiked by 1 person
OK, I’m just going to say it. Maestri seems like he was a jerk. Still, what a story! I can’t believe people have climbed that thing, even with advances in gear and techniques. Amazing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is amazing that climbers have successfully climbed it. I can’t imagine. Maestri was a character. It’s crazy to think he continued with his lie for so long.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Amazing views.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks, yes it’s a gorgeous area.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wow… spectacular. Can’t imagine being there!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Amy, it is a pretty spectacular place.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I was literally drooling over your photos and Argentinas pristine beauty, I’d say it’s by far, one of the most attractive travel experiences to be found on Planet Earth. I’m glad you had a memorable time trekking trough its jugged peaks and seeing such natural wonders in person. Thanks for sharing and have a good day. Aiva
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Aiva, Even with bad weather, you can’t beat the views in Patagonia. The wildness of the mountains is incredible.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Patagonia is one of those places I see pictures of, and say wow, and think it’d be a fabulous place to go with a camera. But I doubt I’ll ever get there, ’cause my wife likes to travel too but not that far. Thanks for the virtual visit. I can only guess the mountains are much more spectacular in person.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Dave, I’m glad you could enjoy it though our pictures.😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sounds like a fabulous experience and fabulous photos 😊🏔 🗻
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you Cheryl, Patagonia is an incredible place.
LikeLiked by 1 person