The Khmer Empire is well known for its site Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but did you know that this kingdom stretched much further to include parts of eastern Thailand? A Khmer trading route ran from Angkor Wat in Cambodia to near the Thai city of Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat). On this trading route, not far from Khorat, we found three well preserved Khmer sites; Phimai, Phanum Rung and Prasat Muang Tam.
Phimai Historical Park
Located in the small town of Phimai is an important historical wat dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. The temple was built by the Khmer Empire and in fact it looks more like the ruins in Angkor Wat, than those in other parts of Thailand. Even though Khmers at that time were Hindu, the residents in Phimai were Buddhist so the temple was built as a Buddhist Temple. It is considered to be one of the most important sites along this Khmer trading route.
As we approached Phimai Historical Park by road we could see tall stone towers poking above the original stone wall letting us know something special was inside. After entering through the main gates of the park we saw a long walkway that leads to a low rectangular building with a tall prang (tower) behind.
Phimai 
Phimai
As we got closer, we saw the entrance to this building was guarded by stone lions. Beyond them, nagas definined a small bridge that leads to the first doorway.
Phimai Historical Park 
Phimai Historical Park
After crossing the bridge you enter a series of long hallways bordered by tall pillars. Many are beautifully decorated with Buddhist and Hindu carvings. There would have been walls and roofs made out of wood, but all that remains today is the stone framework.
Phimai Historical Park 
Phimai Historical Park 
Carvings, Phimai Historical Park
The hallways lead to a courtyard with a tall, main prang (tower) surrrounded by a few smaller ones. Some of the towers are in good condition with detailed carvings on the tall roofs. Other towers have fallen into disrepair. Inside each prang we found Buddha statues set in small alcoves. The statues are protected by a large naga head.
Phimai Historical Park was a wonderful introduction to the Khmer sites in this area.
Main prang, Phimai Historical Park 
Carvings, main prang, Phimai Historical Park 
Phimai Historical Park 
Phimai Historical Park
Phanum Rung Historical Park
Getting to Phanum Rung was a little different than most trips. First we took a public bus from Khorat and then we had to use motorcycle taxis. The 14km road to the site is a steep, winding mountain road. The motorcycle taxis didn’t have helmets and they drove in which ever lane or shoulder they wanted. It was not the safest ride, but we made it in one piece.
The ruins of Phanum Rung Historical Park are set on the top of an extinct volcano, 400 m high. It was built between the 11th and 13th centuries and is said to be the best preserved Khmer sites outside of Angkor Wat. Phanum Rung along with Prasat Muang Tam are being considered for UNESCO World Heritage designation.
From the park’s entrance a long, stone stairway leads to the temple on top of the volcano. Stairs in Thailand, whether old or new, are always a challenge. They always seem to have steps of various heights and widths. Many times the riser is very high making it difficult even for us to climb, and we’re considerably taller than the locals. This staircase was no different. In addition to the varying heights, many of the steps were half the size of our feet so we had to go up and down sideways.
Stariway to Phanum Rung 
Naga bridge, Phanum Rung Historical Park
At the top of the stairs you realize that the climb was worth it. A low roofed stone building with a decorated doorway entices you to enter.
Phanum Rung
On the other side of the doors we found a large courtyard filled with stone Khmer-era buildings. Detailed carvings decorate the outer walls, pillars and ceilings and reminded us of Angkor Wat. Compared to other sites we’ve seen, these buildings are in remarkable condition. It is a great site to wander around and explore the fascinating architecture.
Phanum Rung Historical Park 
Courtyard in Phanum Rung Historical Park 
Phanum Rung Historical Park 
Carvings, Phanum Rung Historical Park 
Phanum Rung Historical Park
Prasat Muang Tam
The smallest, but most peaceful Khmer site is 8 km down the road from Phanum Rung. Prasat Muang Tam is the oldest of these three sites built in the 10th and 11th centuries. It has a lovely park-like setting with big trees and large ponds filled with lotus flowers. The ponds are decorated in elaborate gates and steps.
Prasat Muang Tam 
Prasat Muang Tam 
Prasat Muang Tam
Gates decorated with gorgeous relief carvings depicting Shiva and Hindu mythologial figues lead from the outer courtyard to the inner sanctuary.
prasat muang tam 
Inside the gates is a large platform with four stone prangs. The centre prang which would have been the main one has collapsed, but the others allow you to imagine how grand it was. Prasat Muang Tam was the least busy site and that combined with the ponds, made it a peaceful site to visit.
Prasat Muang Tam
Getting to Phanum Rung and Phimai
All three sites are accessible from Khorat. It is a large city with plenty of hotels and restaurants.
Phimai – Buses leave from Terminal 2 in Khorat. Get off at the clock tower in Phimai. The site is easily seen as you drive by.
Phanum Rung – Buses leave from Terminal 2 in Khorat. Catch a bus passing through Nang Rong. Your stop is on the east end of Nang Rong. From there hire one of the available motorcycle taxis to get to the ruins. The motorcycle taxi fee is 250 Baht return and includes a visit to Prasat Muang. Only one passenger per motorcycle.
Prasat Muang Tam – While in Phanum Rung have your motorcycle taxi wait for you and then take you the 8 km to reach Prasat Muang Tam.
Coming Next – Travel Guide for Thailand
To see more of our pictures visit Gallery at Monkey’s Tale.
To read our stories from other places in the world visit Destinations.
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Monkey's Tale 
Thanks for sharing! Could not have seen yet, I missed every time when ever I go there!
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It’s quite out of the way, so not many tourists make it, but we really enjoyed that part of Thailand.
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Congratulations!
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Another great read and wonderful photos!! 🙂
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Thanks Colin!! Much appreciated. Maggie
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You are most welcome!! 🙂
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Absolutely excellent and. well done post. Love the photos and narrative. It is such a magical place. Thank you for imparting its charm. Enjoyed the read
Love the idea of travelling by motorcycle taxi — fascinating 👍
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Fascinating since we survived the motorcycle taxi, but a little scary at the time when they drive all over the road. These sites were very magical though and I guess overall worth the taxi ride 🙂 Maggie
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Glad to hear that your adventures were safe and well worth the challenges. Safe travels, Maggie. 👍💖
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As strange and wonderful experience — frightening, for someone experiencing it back then.
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Phenomenal architecture and construction for the time. Thanks for sharing. Allan
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It really is a fascinating place and remarkable how good thier construction techniques were to last this long. Thanks for reading Allan 🙂 Maggie
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Phanum Rung looks very impressive. The carvings are beautiful. The post made me reminisce about our time in Cambodia. Wonderful read about a not so well known location!
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Thanks Leighton, it certainly felt like we were in sites in Cambodia and not Thailand. The buildings are quite different from Ayutthaya or Sukothai. I know the current borders are recent, but it really surprised me. Thanks for reading! Maggie
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I learned about Phanom Rung a few years ago and after looking up its photos online and reading some articles about its history, it has now become the place I want to see the most when I get the chance to go back to Thailand. When James, my perennial travel buddy, told me that he got an assignment to Buriram, which is very close to Phanom Rung, I was a bit jealous. 😀
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It is a great site as is Prasat Muang Tam. Phanum Rung is in such good condition, you can really appreciate the artistic side to it. I hope you get there Bama, I know you’ll love it. Maggie
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I found a lot of sites off tourist track thanks to my tuk tuk driver. Excellent
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Yes, they are a wealth of knowledge, unless they’re scamming you 🙂
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Those carvings are quite impressive! And it’s amazing in what peak condition, after all these centuries, the temples are – especially Phanum Rung!
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Yes they really are impressive. It’s surprising that not many people know about it, but it’s kind of out of the way of the usual tourist route. Thanks for reading!! Maggie
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Great photos. I really hope to plan a trip there one day.
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Thank you! This is a worthwhile position you get to Thailand. Thanks for reading!! Maggie
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Thailand is on my bucket list!
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The temple is just stunning and at the first glance, it looks similar in structure to Angkor Wat. It’s amazing how people back then built the site without today’s technology, machine and knowledge! Thanks for sharing and introducing me to yet another amazing place to visit, Maggie! xx
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You’re right the architecture looks a lot more similar to Angkor Wat that sites in Thailand like Ayutthaya. It’s very impressive the details that went into these buildings and that Phanum Rung is still is such good condition, and yet they were built centuries ago. It’s a great, little visited part of Thailand. Thanks for your comments Aiva. Maggie
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I love the detail in that architecture! It’s amazing the creativity of humans!
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It really is. These buildings are quite incredible and to think they were built so well and so long ago! Maggie
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It is very interesting how some parts of the sites are so well preserved, while the others are close to ruins. Nevertheless, the carvings are exquisite!
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Yes I think some is type of stone used and other was too exposed to the environment. It must have been amazing in the day. Thanks for reading Christie!
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Wow it’s beautiful; I can’t believe all these buildings were built so long ago, it’s just amazing!
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I know, it always amazes me how incredibly detailed these old temples are. Maggie
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Another interesting travelogue Maggie. Your pictures are stunning and compelling.
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Thank you
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Love those doorway and window peekaboo views! What a fascinating place to visit.
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There were so many interesting spots in these temples. Those windows are common in Angkor Wat too.
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How’d you get these amazing images?!! I had the hardest time! Great post 😊
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It wasn’t that busy and Richard is very patient. 😊
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I had no idea the Khmer empire extended into what is now Thailand. Your post transported me to Angkor Wat, even though it wasn’t. I would have bet 100% that your pictures were from Cambodia. Good thing I didn’t bet! I’d be out $20!
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Haha you’re such a big spender! I know, it looks like a part of Angkor, and so different from other sites jn Thailand.
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I’m glad to see that these sites have not been desecrated.
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Not at all, they are some of the best preserved sites we have seen.
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Hope I get here some day.
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It is fabulous. It is so reminiscent of Angkor Wat. You realise how much the sense of perspective was valued.
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So beautiful ornate, the details of the Khmer architecture, and undoubtedly related to Angkor Wat. They seem to well kept and well restored. I always love photos of doorways and windows that draw you in.
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Khmer architecture really is beautiful with all of the fine details isn’t it. These sites in Thailand were in very good condition so you can see the details better. Thanks for reading Ruth! Maggie
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These beautiful sites look very similiar to what we saw in Angkor Wat, but I bet they were a lot more peaceful. You are making me want to return to Thailand and visit some of these less mainstream places—though I’m not sure I could do the motorcycle taxi; that kind of stuff scares me.
We drove past Golden on Sunday and I was thinking of you guys. The smoke was awful in many places on our return trip to Vancouver but we managed to get in our Rockwall hike with mostly just slightly hazy conditions (probably not the best for our health though).
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There were hardly any people at these sites so it was much more enjoyable. Most of the people there were local tourists not Instagramers spending hours posing for pictures. Glad you got to do Rockwall, I hope it was as beautiful as you expected and I didn’t raise your expectations too high😊 Can’t wait to read your post. We’re on our way east now for a month or more. Hopefully less smoke. Maggie
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I think you’re smart to be heading east! Enjoy! The Rockwall hike was great!
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Another new information I found through your blog. I guess at some point the old empires had different boundaries than the current ones. This is true even for Europe where over the last 3 centuries, the concept of nation and boundaries kept changing. This place seems to be maintained to some extent. Is it really a popular place among travelers?
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Yes that’s true about the boundaries, funny how we seem to forget that. These ruins are in very good condition, but very far from the usual tourist sites so it is not at all popular with tourists. It was mostly local tourists. Fewer people made it more enjoyable to explore.
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That’s great. It is rewarding to take lesser known paths. That’s what makes exploration so much fun.
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Loved our time there .So historic and amazing sites to see. You have better images than I have.
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Great photos and description
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Thank you!
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