Two former fishing villages on the northern Brazilian coast are redefining themselves. Jericoacoara and Atins were both small, forgotten villages set along a sand dune covered coastline. Consistent, prevailing trade-winds have made these spots very popular with wind-sport enthusiasts, changing them from sleepy fishing villages to popular beach towns.
The coastline in this part of Brazil runs almost parallel to the equator allowing the trade-winds to blow straight across. Winds are typically 20–28 km/h (11–15 knots) almost everyday from July to January, making the area ideal for windsurfing and kiteboarding.
Jericoacoara
As we approached Jericoacoara we knew we were in for something special. The sandy road we were traveling on entered a long tunnel, cut out of the surrounding dense bushes. The roof and windows of our SUV kept hitting branches as our driver navigated our way on the tight sandy road.
Jericoacoara is not an easy name for us to pronounce. Thankfully, it is commonly called Jeri. Most of the land in this part of the coast is covered in sand and Jeri is no different. This former fishing village has recently become a popular tourist destination. Some people describe it as a hippie town, but we didn’t see it that way. We found it to be a full-fledged tourist beach town. It seemed that their entire economy now relies on tourism. Not only do they have sandy beaches, but the roads and sidewalks are also made of sand. Block after sandy block in this little town are lined with restaurants, pubs and small shops selling beachwear and tourist knickknacks. It is quite a cute town, but was much busier than we expected.
Jeri was the first place we tried açaí. It is a small grape sized berry that grows on açaí palm trees. In Brazil you can find it everywhere and is usually sold as a gelato-style frozen treat. In northern Brazil it is also used in a sauce served with meat. Don’t tell anyone from Brazil, but we didn’t fall in love with açaí. We found it rather flavourless, especially compared to other fruits that grow here like mangos and pineapples.
The town has only had electricity since 1998, but you would never know that today. There are no streetlights in town, but the businesses have more than made up for it and the area really comes alive at night. Many of the restaurants and bars have colourful light displays, live bands or cultural dance shows.
Jericoacoara Beach is bordered by dozens of hotels and bars complete with lounge chairs and umbrellas set up on the sand. Fishing boats on the shore were resting on the ocean bottom during low tide. Even though the sand isn’t the nicest on this beach the atmosphere makes it a nice place to enjoy an afternoon beer or caipirinha.
Just a little ways away from the lounge chairs, the water is crowded with colourful windsurfers riding on top of the water. We watched as a few very skilled surfers had fun jumping over the rough waves.
At the western edge of Jericoacoara Beach large, white sand dunes take over the landscape. They are formed by the constant winds in a similar way that Lençóis Maranhenses was formed (see our post here). These dunes begin at the beach and continue to surround the outer edge of town. Dune buggies take tourists for rides on the dunes, but after Lençóis Maranhenses, we had become sand dune snobs and weren’t interested in a dune buggy ride.
At the end of rainy season there are a few lagoons between the dunes that are very popular for people looking for an alternative to the main beach.
From the main beach heading east along the water’s edge, the terrain soon becomes very rocky. At low tide you can walk over the rugged rocks and coral that have become exposed. We followed the shore all the way to the most famous landmark in Jeri, Pedra Furada (Pieced Rock), 3 km away. The large rock with a hole in the middle is a favourite selfie spot for tourists. It’s a nice feature, but not as amazing as the marketing material will have you believe.
Note – When the tide is in you can only access Pedra Furada on a trail from town. It involves hiking up and over a small pass between two hills. Many people took a horse and buggy to the top instead of walking, but it’s really not that far.
Hill of Serrote is a small hill above Pedra Furada with a hiking trail that takes you to its top. The ground on the hill isn’t sandy but it is very dry and covered in cacti. We almost didn’t see a burrowing owl because it was camouflaged in the brown grass.
From the top of the hill we were treated to wonderful panoramic views of the rocky shore and the vast ocean. This higher vantage point allowed us to see how the sand dunes added and an interesting background to the cute town.
Because most of Brazil’s coast faces east there are very few places where you can see the sunset behind the Atlantic Ocean. Jeri’s location is one that allows this view. From the top of Hill of Serrote we enjoyed a wonderful scene as the sun set over the ocean.
The small beach town is located in Jericoacoara National Park in the state of Ceará. Since the streets are made of sand and the town is inside the national park, only approved vehicles are allowed on the streets of Jeri. Most of those are 4WDs or all-terrain vehicles, but surprisingly horse and buggies are among those approved. Even though the town is very small and you can walk everywhere we were surprised that the streets were always buzzing with ATVs and horse buggies. It seemed as though Brazilians don’t like to walk.
Note – There is no fee to enter the national park but there is a R$5 fee per day to stay in town. You have to pay this fee at the entrance. Your receipt will list the days it is valid and will be checked when you leave the town. It’s a good idea to take a picture of your receipt in case it is lost.
Getting to Jeri
If you don’t have your own car, getting to Jeri can be a little tricky. Daily buses travel between the large city of Fortaleza and Jijoca. From Jijoca you need to take a 4WD taxi for the final 27 km of sandy roads to Jeri. These taxis leave from the Jijoca bus stop and their arrivals and departures match up with bus schedules. Getting to Jeri from Barreirinhas is more difficult. Buses leave Barreirinhas daily for the small city of Parnaiba where it possible to catch another bus to Jijoca and then a 4WD to Jeri, but you would have to overnight in Parnaiba. We took a private transfer from Barreirinhas to Jericoacoara. It was R$400 ($80 USD) each and took 7 hours, but it was a much better alternative for us. Another way is to reach Jeri is to take a bus or car from Sao Luis to Jijoca and then take the 4WD. If you do drive, you will have to park your car at the park entrance as private vehicles are not allowed in town.
Where to stay and eat in Jeri
There is no shortage of hotels and guesthouses to chose from in Jeri. There is something for every budget. The town is very small and there really isn’t a bad neighbourhood, but obviously the closer you are to the beach, the more expensive the hotels. Finding a restaurant won’t be a problem either as there are many options to eat and even a couple of grocery stores.
Atins
The secluded village of Atins is located at the estuary of Preguiças River as it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. It began as a fishing village, but recently has been taken over by kiteboarders and is slowly being transformed into a kiteboarding destination.
Atins Beach is a long tract of fine sand along the side of Preguiças River. A narrow sandbar on the other side of the river helps to create a shallow lagoon with flat water which is perfect for kiteboarders. When we were there the waters were filled with kiteboarders taking advantage of the consistent trade-winds and flat water of the Preguiças River.
Unlike Jeri which is a developed beach resort town, Atins in the state of Maranhão, is still in its infancy stages. The village consists of fishermen homes, guesthouses and a few small hotels spread out on the sandy ground. There aren’t really roads but rather tracts of sand meaning that you can’t drive just any car here. Only 4WD vehicles, ATVs and horse and buggies can navigate the deep sand.
Set along the sandy river beach are a few tourist restaurants and bars. Many of the full-day tours of Lençóis Maranhenses stop in Atins for lunch. The rest of the visitors are wind-sport athletes, but word of this quiet place is growing so that may soon change. If you don’t kiteboard there’s not a lot else to do in Atins except enjoy the quiet atmosphere on the sandy river beach.
How to get to Atins
Access to this village is not straight forward. There are no actual roads to reach the village. You can take a private 4WD taxi or boat from Barreirinhas, 30 km away. Some people take one of the day tours offered in Barreirinhas that includes a stop in Atins. That way they can see some of the beautiful vistas of Lençóis Maranhenses on their way to Atins.
Where to stay and eat in Atins
There are a few restaurants along the beach and in the village but prices are quite high. Be prepared to pay for the quaint surroundings. A few guesthouses and hotels are scattered around the sandy village, many can be found on-line.
Important Tips for Jeri and Atins
- Prevailing winds occur from July to January making these are the best months for windsurfing and kiteboarding. It is also the dry season. Rainy season begins in January and continues into June. This would be a poor time to visit either town.
- There are no banks in either Jeri or Atins so make sure you have enough money before you arrive. Some businesses will accept credit cards and payment apps, but they may not always be working. Also there is no reliable internet in either town so make sure any important information regarding your hotel etc. have been downloaded to your devices before you arrive.
- The unfortunate part of the prevailing winds and sandy roads is that, even in town, you will be constantly covered in sand. We were cleaning sand out of our clothes, hair, eyes and ears for days.
- Even though this area is ready for tourists, most of their tourists are Brazilian so don’t expect much English. We found Google Lens very helpful in reading the Portuguese menus.
To read about our other adventures in Brazil click here.
Coming Next – Brazil’s City Beaches – Fortaleza & Natal
Monkey's Tale 
Very informative, Maggie…lovely pictures!!
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Thank you Indira, Maggie
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Lovely descriptions of the contrast between the sand and life in Jericoacoara. Great photos. That sunset between the cacti is a fabulous capture…wow!
It is amazing how well developed the tourist industry is in Jeri from your account. They sure benefit well from their moniker as “the world’s best beach”
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Yes I think since that article came out to declare it the best beach it has been growing a lot in popularity. When we heard people say it was a hippie town we imagined something more relaxed and less developed, but I guess in comparison to a large city, it’s pretty low key. Thanks as always for sharing your thoughts, Maggie
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My pleasure. I enjoyed the read!!
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I’m too old to learn windsurfing, but the towns look like they’re fun to explore. Meanwhile, the açaí berries availability is tempting. It’s touted as a health-food in the states and the cost is exhorbitant.
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Well, you should probably try açaí, but don’t expect a rich flavourful berry taste. I think it is full of anti-oxidants which is why it has health benefits. We can buy it here too, but we never did because it’s so expensive.
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A most interesting read! I love the sight of those massive dunes too!
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It is an interesting landscape in this part of Brazil. The sand dunes take up most of the coast in this area. Thanks for reading and commenting! Maggie
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Ceretainly makes for great contrasts! and you are very welcome Maggie!! 😊😊🤗
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There are so many hidden gems out there, so great you found these two. Lovely pics, really puts you there.
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Thank you! Maggie
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It looks a fun place, Maggie. Great photos, full of life. I’d probably just be a spectator 🤔💖
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Yes, we were spectators too 🙂 Maggie
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What a beautiful article! It almost felt like I was there with the wind blowing my hair🤗
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Haha, thanks Luisa. Hope you didn’t get too much sand in your eyes! Maggie
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What a lovely reply!
Thanks a lot, dear Maggie🙏
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I think the views from the hill above Jeri are my favorite! I think I would enjoy trying windsurfing or kiteboarding too. I’ve never done either. I’m really enjoying this tour of Brazil, I’m realizing just hoe enormous and diverse it is and how little I know about it.
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We tried kiteboarding in Sri Lanka. It was fun, but you obviously need to spend more time at it than one half-day to get good. I’ve never tried windsurfing though, it looks like a lot of fun too, maybe someday I’ll try it. Maggie
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I love how you find these out-of-the-way laces and take us along! The coast is beautiful and the town looks like a fun place to visit. I couldn’t help but wonder about the impact and change to the villagers’ life. Clearly there is economic benefit, but is there any negative impact as well?
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It’s true their lives have likely completely changed. We didn’t really get to find out about how they feel or speak with any, but hopefully the economic change makes their lives better. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Maggie
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Interesting and beautiful. I think I would be a sand dune snob as well.
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Haha, yes we felt we had already seen the best dunes so why bother 🙂 Maggie
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I am not a fan of acai either and I couldn’t figure out what all the hype about it was. But your pictures are incredible- what a wonderful mix of rocky shores, white dunes, desert cacti, and a colorful inviting town 🙂
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Açaí was a bit disappointing, we had expected more flavour. Glad we’re not the only ones to think that. The towns though were cute wonderful surprises and glad we visited them. Maggie
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Always interesting to get off the beaten path. Looks like these places will be famous before long. I can only imagine how much fun it must be to continuously clean the sand out of everything. The last place I saw dunes that high was in New Zealand at Te Paki and Oponoi. Thanks for sharing Maggie. Allan
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By the end of this part of the trip I was definitely glad to get away from sand for a few days. Maggie
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The views from the Hill of Serrote are beautiful, that and the sunset are my favourite parts of your latest adventure. I love these remote areas that you managed to find and visit. I would enjoy exploring these little towns and villages.
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This part of Brazil was so different from what we expected with so many different towns in unusual settings. The hike up the hill was our favourite two, we went twice because we liked it so much. Thanks so much for reading Leighton! Maggie
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An enticing town—love the sandy alleyways and limited traffic
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It certainly has a different feel than any other town we visited and a great place for a short getaway 🙂 Maggie
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I can certainly see the draw of this area, the dunes, beach, and colorful town. Acai berry is touted as very nutritious. I do crossword puzzles and it pops up often, probably because it’s full of vowels!
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It was a great spot for a few days. Açaí is supposed to be very nutritious, but I think they put a lot of sugar into it that it negates the nutritional value! But a good crossword word 🙂 Maggie
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I love the laid back vibe! Jeri sounds like a great place to chill for a few days. The hiking, shopping, and dunes would appeal to me the most. Thanks for sharing this cool destination.
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It is a great little beach town, much more lively than we expected. Thanks for reading!! 😊 Maggie
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Amazing photos. I have never tried Açai. I am intrigued now.
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Thank you! Maggie
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I love the street art in Jeri and a beer by that beach sounds very appealing, as there’s so much activity to watch while you drink 😀 And I’m glad you spotted the Burrowing Owl and got such a great photo!
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We don’t windsurf but it was a lot of fun to watch them, many were very good. The owl was such a great surprise, I don’t see owls in person very often!
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Hello there. Jeri looks like a good place to spend some time in. You definitely get around!
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Jeri is a great little beach town to relax for a few days. Thanks for reading! Maggie
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Jeri looks amazing. I want to go there!! I did wonder about sand being everywhere and you confirmed that for me.
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Yes, wind and sand don’t always mix. Other than that, it’s a great little beach town!
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Looks lovely, and beautiful photos! Reminds me of Hood River, OR which was once a sleepy agricultural town until wind surfing enthusiasts discovered it, now it draws people from all over the globe.
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I’ve heard of Hood. Jeri and Atins may one day turn into that. I hope they don’t get much more busy, but if it’s better for the locals then it’s good I guess.
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Great, Quality Content for The Ultimate Tour Guide, A lot of thanks for sharing, kindly keep with continue !!
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Thank you!!
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I’m not even going to attempt to say (or spell) the name of the first town! The rugged shoreline in Jeri looks lovely and completely different compared to the sandy shores of Atins. What a great picture of the setting sun.
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We were glad to find out that people cal it Jeri, I finally figured out how to pronounce it by the time we left! Even though Atins was gorgeous completely made of white sand, it was nice to have a little contrast in Jeri. The view from the hill, including the sunset was our favourite part.
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Jerri seems to have a laid-back vibe from your pictures. I’m surprised that the town doesn’t have streetlights with buzzing bars and eating places. I like those white sandy landscapes of the beach. In this part of the world, not many have heard about towns other than Rio and Sao Polo in Brazil. I’m happy to read and know about this interesting town with active wind sports scene.
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We hadn’t heard about any of these places either and were so happy to find so many fun and unique spots in Brazil. Even though there were so many sand dunes and sandy beaches the landscape was breathtaking and changed at every turn. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Arv, Maggie
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In the current age when most of us plan and read about everything, finding something new is a pleasant change. I’m glad you could experience this, Maggie. Keep sharing.
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As a windsurfer, Jeri has been on my radar for some time, but not really an option now we’ve got dogs!
Love your photos, as always. Thank you for sharing.
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Oh too bad, it seemed to be a great Windsurfing beach. I’ve never tried it but it looks like so much fun!
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You take us to places and experiences we have no clue about, including places we are not likely to visit during our lifetimes, and this blog is no exception. Glad to have seen Atin and Jericoacoara through your eyes.
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Thanks so much! We love exploring and finding new, interesting places. Glad you’re enjoying them with us! Maggie
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Jeri looks beautiful, and I really love the streets are all sand and not paved, it’s very different to what you see in Europe that’s for sure. Beautiful places that I’d love to be able to visit one day.
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Very interesting Maggie, the coastline and vast sand dunes look impressive and not what I expected of Brazil.
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I know, we didn’t know what to expect, but the landscapes are so incredible and so different from any other South American country. Thanks so much for reading and commenting, Maggie
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Interesting and scenic. Google Lens…thanks. Great tip.
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Have you used it? It was incredibly helpful to translate anything written.
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No, but will now. Thanks.
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What’s not to love Maggie.. I gotta get there!~ 💞
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Yes you do!!
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Interesting place.
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Thanks Kelly! Maggie
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Enjoyable and informative read, I wouldn’t have thought you would be able to see the sun set over the sea from Brazil! 😀
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It’s not possible in many spots, but this was one! Thanks for taking the time to comment Jim! Maggie
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My pleasure, looking forward to following your adventures here and on Insta 😀
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I like the look of the alleys of Jeri. But I think the best view of the town and the shore really is from that hill you went to. “It seemed as though Brazilians don’t like to walk.” Oh how much I can resonate with this when it comes to Indonesians. A lot of my fellow countrymen seem to prefer riding a motorbike even to cover small distances!
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We preferred the view from the hill too, we went twice to see it in different light. Maybe because it’s hot in both countries, but it was strange that so many people were on an ATV to get anywhere in the small town.
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It’s a theme these days, isn’t it….once remote places being “discovered” and slowly changing character, especially when it’s a specific activity which triggers the change, like surfing or in this case windsurfing and the like. If the village retains something of its character at the same time as seeing a boost to its economy then it feels pretty good to be there. We enjoy that feeling. Plus of course, if it hadn’t been “discovered” then travellers like yourselves and us wouldn’t get to see these places!
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Exactly, we wouldn’t have found these places either if they were still fishing villages, and so far the change is reasonable and good for the local economies. We love finding these small places too.
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Windsurfing looks amazing, something I did when younger living in Jeddah now I’d just amble around those beaches from bar to bar
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Haha, us too 🙂
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You found so many cool little places on this trip! Also, “sand dune snobs” … that brought a good laugh. I guess if you’re going to be a snob, this would be a good kind to be! 🙂
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Haha, well if the flip-flop fits!!
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It was interesting to learn about the trade winds, which help explain why these are popular destinations for surfing and kiteboarding. My husband doesn’t like sand, so I doubt I could convince him to visit with me. 😊
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The sand will be everywhere too, one of the downsides of these windy places. So I don’t think he’d like it.
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Maggie sharing this amazing site we visited. Great images caught my attention. Thanks Anita
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Looks like an interesting place. Hopefully, the touristy character doesn’t get too obnoxious.
Sailboarders and kite sailors are fun to watch. In this part of the world we have the Columbia Gorge acting as a wind tunnel, and boarding central is in a town called Hood River. Have you heard of it?
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Yes I have friends who live jn Squamish BC and go there regularly for Windsurfing. Let’s hope Jeri and Atin don’t get obnoxiously touristy 😊
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Gorgeous destinations, all.
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Yes, Brazil has so many beautiful spots.
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Beautiful photos great place! Beautifully written! 👍
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Enjoyed this destination with you!
The first photo of the panoramic view reminds me of a photo I took in Bonaire – same!
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Thanks! I’ll have to look up Bonaire on your site. Maggie
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Thanks for leaving me a comment on my Bonarire post. It was a bittersweet time of my life, which I didn’t let on in those posts.
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Sorry to hear that, hope things are better now.
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That beach looks incredible! Glad you saw the burrowing owl too
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The owl was a huge surprise, we had no idea that they lived there. 😊
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That burrowing owl is adorable!
I love the photo contrasting the desert area next to the water. That blue is sooo lovely.
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Thanks! This was an unexpected find in Brazil! Maggie
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Follow my blog,
Thanks for sharing
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I haven’t been to Jeri or Atin, but it reminds me of other small seaside resorts in South America, without the skyscrapers of the trendy places. It’s easy to label these places as hippie for their more informal and less organised feel, but in the end it’s ordinary visitors who go there.
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I can see why they called them Hippie in comparison to the cities, but I had different expectations I guess. Either way it’s a great escape beach town! Maggie
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Lol I felt the same about açaí but when paired with other things it can be delightful oh and the photos are brilliant!! Great work y’all!!!
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Thank you! I guess açaí would be good with other fruit but I never saw it offered that way. Maggie
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That’s cause most people want to make it and market it soley just with açaí as the primary fruit. I make my own açaí bowls blended with things like papaya pineapple mangoes and dragon fruit…. I’ve done it with strawberries blueberries…. And once with some cara Cara oranges and passion fruit…. Mix it up and have a good time!! (Also honey is everything with these)
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Sounds yummy!
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hard to get to places often have the best surprises!
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That’s so true!
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There are so many hidden gems out there, so great you found these two. Lovely pics, really puts you there.
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Thank you, Brazil has so many of the beautiful spots. Maggie
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