Touring a foreign city with a local allows you to not only see the sites but delve further into its history, its culture and begin to understand its personality. We were able to do just that recently as we toured Kraków, Poland’s famous historical city.
Monkey’s Tale photographer, Richard, grew up in Poland and spent his university years in Kraków. He ‘volunteered’ to be a tour guide on our recent trip to his hometown sharing with Maggie its history, myths and legends.
Stare Miasto (Old Town)
Kraków was the capital of Poland from 1038 until 1596 when it was relocated to Warsaw by a Swedish king. Its Old Town was not destroyed during WWII therefore its historic centre is filled with original architecture. It’s so impressive that the entire historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Of course all of that history is also draped in fascinating stories.
Like many cities of its time, a 13th century defensive wall surrounded Krakow’s Old Town. In its 4 km (2 1/2 mile) length there were 47 towers and 8 gates. Due to maintenance costs and lack of need, in the 19th century most of the wall was dismantled. In its place, the city turned it into a park that wraps around Old Town. Planty Park has a walking/biking path filled with trees and is a really lovely use of the land.
Today only Floriańska Gate remains and its tall white tower makes it one of the most popular and most photographed streets. On the other side of the gate is the large Barbican which provided another level of protection. These two remaining historical features allow you to imagine how the fortified city once looked.
Rynek Główny (Central Square)
Set in the middle of Old Town, Central Square is the largest medieval square in Europe. Around its edge are 3 and 4 story heritage row houses with ornate decorations over their windows, doorways and roofs. Today these buildings are mostly restaurants with patios that extend out onto the square.
On each corner, small kiosks sell pretzels, which to North American Maggie, is the quintessential Polish site. Richard noticed on this trip that most of the pretzels sellers are Ukrainian; likely newly relocated due to the Russian invasion.
Taking centre stage in the large square is the Sukiennice or Cloth Market. Built in 1257, its name tells what used to be its primary good for sale but in the Middle Ages this international trading centre sold a variety of items including spices and salt as well as fabrics. Today though, its stalls sell mostly tourist trinkets. It is a fabulous building, both day and night.
The city of Kraków has many legends and folklore that go with its historic buildings. The most famous belongs to the main church, St. Mary’s Basilica. As soon as you set foot on Rynek Główny (Central Square), you notice the large church with two towers. Upon closer look, you’ll realize that the two towers are quite different. One is tall with Gothic spires the other is short with round Renaissance cupolas. The unusual, mismatched towers give the church a distinctive look and of course they come with a great story.
As the legend goes, when the church was being built in the 13th century, two brothers were hired to build the towers. A competition ensued to see who could build the taller tower. Partway into the build, the younger brother realized that the broad base of his brother’s tower would allow it to be built much higher. In a fit of jealous rage, the younger one killed his brother and instructed that his brother’s tower will not be built any higher and should be covered by rounded cupolas. He then continued to build his own tower and when completed he topped it with pointed spires. Then, the younger brother became consumed by guilt. He confessed to the murder and stabbed himself with the same knife before jumping off his tower to his death. That knife now hangs in the Sukiennice.
The shorter tower is a bell tower which is still used to this day. The taller tower has a more interesting use and is accompanied by another legend. After construction was completed, the tallest tower was used as a watchtower. If the citizens needed to be warned of fire or enemy attack, a bugle call (Hejnał mariacki) was played out of four different windows at the top of the tower. The legend says that in the 12th century a watchman saw a Tatar army approaching the city wall. As he was playing the warning song, the bugler was shot in the neck with a Tatar arrow and the song was cut short. Today to commemorate this, the same song is played by a bugler in the tower who cuts off the song mid note as if he were shot by an arrow. You can hear him play every day, on the hour.
It’s possible to climb to the top of the Watchtower to see the city from above. Tickets can only be purchased on the day of your visit for Zł 20 ($4.80 USD). The ticket office is across from St. Mary’s Church and opens at 10am. They only sell 160 tickets per day so you should arrive early as there is often a line-up. It’s not well marked, but the tower is entered opposite of Floriańska Street. You can also visit the church sanctuary. Tickets are sold in the same office.
At the other end of Central Square is the smallest and oldest church in the city. Church of St. Adalbert was built in the 11th century and so it predates the square. That explains why it sits on an angle to the rest of he buildings. Between the oddball angle, its small size and green dome roof, this church is one of our favourite sites in the square.
On the other side of the Sukiennice is a lone, brick clock tower. It is all that remains of the 14th century Town Hall; the rest of the building was demolished in 1820. We climbed to the top to take pictures of the city, but it was disappointing. The windows are covered in glass that is smudged with fingerprints so it’s not great for taking pictures. Entrance is free on Monday and would be the only day we recommend to go. Every other day it’s zł 15.00 ($3.60 USD), but it’s not even worth that entry fee.
Zamek Wawel (Wawel Castle)
Standing on top of Wawel Hill, along the side of the Vistula River, is the majestic Wawel Castle. Home to three dynasties of monarchs, the first buildings of the castle were built in the 11th century. It continued to grow with new additions over the next few centuries. The castle that stands today is in fantastic shape and is an imposing image along the river. Inside are courtyards, palaces, halls, a church, residences and even a dragon’s den.
There are many different tour options to visit the inside of the castle.
When the mythical ruler, King Krakus, lived on Wawel Hill a fierce dragon lived in a den below and terrorized the people of Kraków. No knight was able to slay this dragon until Skuba, a shoemaker, tricked the dragon into eating a fake ram stuffed with sulphur. The dragon’s throat burned from the sulphur, so he drank from the Vistula River. The water mixed with the sulphur and caused the dragon’s stomach to explode, killing him instantly and the city was saved. You can visit the dragon’s den below the castle.
Old Town Kraków is said to have at least 42 historic churches. One of the most interesting is St Andrew’s Church. It was built in the 11th century with impenetrable walls and high windows. This design allowed it to be used to protect Kraków citizens during invasions. The two most famous are when the Tatars invaded in the mid 13th century. On these attacks the Tatars burned the city to the ground, but the citizens who were inside the church remained safe. After each raid, these citizens rebuilt the city.
Immediately beside St. Andrew’s is St. Paul’s and St. Peter’s Church. The church is relatively young compared to others in the city, but its ornate baroque exterior makes it stand out. In addition to it, we came across many more of the 42 historical churches in Old Town.
Wierzynek Restaurant 1364
The restaurant is famous, not just for being the oldest restaurant in Poland, but it also has an interesting beginning. In 1364 Kraków merchant Mikołaj Wierzynek hosted a 20 day lavish feast for Polish King Casimir The Great and many European leaders who had arrived to negotiate a Peace Treaty. The restaurant can be found in Central Square.
Jagiellonian University
Not far from the main square is the oldest university in Poland. Jagiellonian University was founded by Casimir III The Great in 1364. It had illustrious students including Copernicus.
Outside of the walled city the fabulous historic buildings continue. We walked by a beautiful theatre, train station and many more architectural stand-outs.
Kazimierz
Jews arrived to the city in the mid 14th century and settled in the neighbourhood of Kazimierz. The community grew in population until the beginning of the 19th century. Before World War II, Kraków had over 64,000 Jews, a quarter of the city’s population. Today Kazimierz is a popular place to see the historic homes, shops and museums as well as visit one of the many restaurants.
At the heart of Kazimierz is the oldest synagogue in Poland, built in the 1400s. This neighbourhood is one of the places where the movie Schindler’s List took place.
Kopiec Kościuszko (Kościuszko Mound)
From the top of the Watchtower in St Mary’s Basilica we could see a small grassy knoll on top of Sikornik Hill. Kościuszko Mound is a man-made 34 m (111 ft) tall grassy knoll. It was erected in the 1800s as a tribute to the beloved Polish hero, Tadeusz Kościuszko. He was a national leader and general of both the Polish and American armies fighting for independence. From the top of the mound, we were treated to panoramic views of Kraków and on a clear day you can see the Carpathian Mountains in the distance.
Australian readers may recognize the name. When Polish explorer Paweł Strzelecki first saw Australia’s highest peak in 1840 he named it Mt. Kościuszko because it reminded him of Kościuszko Mound.
You can reach Kościuszko Mound by car or by public bus or tram.
There are three similar mounds on the edge of the city. One is said to be the burial site of Princess Wanda, daughter of mythical King Krakus. She was said to be very beautiful and attracted attention from German Prince Rytygier. The Prince said if she didn’t marry him he would invade Kraków. Wanda didn’t share his love and didn’t want to marry him. To save the city, she killed herself by drowning in the Vistula River. Another mound is said to be the burial site of her father King Krakus.
The final mound is for Józef Piłsudski. a statesman who fought for Polish independence and with whom Richard has a connection. Richard’s grandfather served under Piłsudski in WWI, and Richard’s father was one of many men who brought a wheelbarrow of earth up to the top of the hill to make the mound.
Wieliczka (Salt Mine)
Not far from Kraków are the salt mines of Wieliczka. Prehistoric tribes living in the area found briny water in the springs. They developed techniques to harvest the salt from the water but didn’t know about the salt below the earth. Mining of the salt rocks began over 700 years ago. The legend of the mine tells of Hungarian Princess Kinga who was to marry the Polish king and wanted to bring salt to the people of Poland. Her father gave her a salt mine in Transylvania, but this didn’t help Poland. When visiting her mine in Transylvania, she threw her engagement into a mine shaft and when she arrived in Poland, they found her ring in a block of salt in Wieliczka.
As early as the 14th century the salt mines became very important to the king and became the largest source of income for many generations. It’s said that at that time a block of salt could buy an entire village. The mine grew over the centuries and at its largest, the mine had over 250 km of corridors and was 327 m deep. Today the mines are almost completely closed, but part of the mine is open for tours. Our tour took us down to 135 m where we walked through the old salt corridors and saw examples of old tools, equipment and even horses.
As with most mines, the miners were very superstitious in their dangerous work environment. They erected chapels and carved statues of saints from salt rocks. Some were very elaborate with salt chandeliers and large sanctuaries.
The mine tour begins in Daniłowicz Shaft on the edge of the town and after touring the mine, we walked along mining corridors 135 m deep for 15 minutes to reach Regis Shaft elevator. When we got off the elevator we realized we were in the middle of downtown meaning we had just walked underneath half of the town.
Wieliczka Salt Mine is 14 km from Kraków city centre. It can be reached by car or by train on the Wieliczka Rynek-Kopalnia line which leaves from Kraków Glowny or the airport every 30 minutes.
Coming Next – A Visit to Warsaw
For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca
To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
If you like what you read, please comment or share (with credit) using the links below,
Monkey's Tale 
A very interesting post.
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Thank you!
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💙
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Great town in Eastern Europe, we enjoyed it a few years ago, the train station is also an eyecatcher 🙂
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Yes we love Kraków!! Thanks for reading! Maggie
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There are so many dark legends in this city. The rival siblings building the church towers is probably the most unsettling. Meanwhile, the carvings in the salt mine are simply amazing.
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Let’s hope it’s just a fable and not true. The salt carvings were quite impressive. 😊
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Not only are these photos so fantastic in depicting the beauty of Krakow but I also really enjoyed reading the folklore especially regarding the two brothers and two towers (though a bit macabre 😂)
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Thank-you! Yes I guess these old legends are a but gruesome, but they’re also a fun way to learn about the. City. 😊 Thanks for taking the time to comment. Maggie
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Amazing stories, some gruesome, and I learned so much about krakow. Thank you.
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It was a fun way to learn about the city! 😊 Maggie
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The backstory of the two brothers who each built one of the two towers of St. Mary’s Basilica was captivating, but sad. Thank you for sharing the history of this amazing city. The photos, of course, are awesome.
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It’s always interesting to visit a city with a local who knows the history and legends attached to each sight. I heard some of these stories on my own visit to Krakow back in 2009, with my Virtual Tourist travel group friends. But the one about the two brothers was new to me and is such a dramatic tale! And it’s good to see Sukiennice properly, as it was being restored when I visited and partly covered in scaffolding.
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Well they did a good job restoring it because it looks great, although I don’t remember that it needed much work when I saw it 15 or so years ago. It’s always fun to see the city through his eyes. 😊
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Ah good memories. We made a winter visit to Krakow a few years ago and visited a lot of the same places as you, as well as Auschwitz and Birkenau, and the Schindler place. We ate in THAT restaurant too, though it wasn’t as good as the fabulous Georgian restaurant on the opposite side of the square. Absolutely loved Kazimierz, we spent more than one evening there in the kosher restaurants. We ended up “accidentally” seeing in the new year in Krakow, our flight hone was cancelled due to bad weather and it was a couple of days before we could get home.
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It would be a fun place for New Year’s Eve! We ate at THAT restaurant last time but not on this trip. Maggie
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Fascinating city. We have neighbours from Poland who extoll the virtues of their country and this city. Thanks for sharing Maggie. Allan
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They’re right 😊
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Amazing photos! Their architecture is sooo unique
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Thank you, the Old Town architecture is so gorgeous. Thanks for your comments 😊 Maggie
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You’re welcome!
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Fantastic post, Maggie! I loved visiting Krakow on your coat tails. How fun that Richard got to show off his hometown and give you the insiders tour. Thank you for sharing this lovely city. Now I’m looking forward to Warsaw.
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Yes it’s really fun to see the city through his eyes and with all of his stories. Maggie
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WOW Maggie. Your photos are breathtaking and the architecture is simply divine. 📸💖🏛 Love your adventures and your travel journals.
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Thanks Kym!! It is a great city for history and architecture buffs! Maggie
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Well, I love the way you reported your tour through it Maggie. Magnificent! 🥰💖😍
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😊
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What a beautiful and fascinating city. Thanks for all the wonderful backstories.
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Thanks!! It was fun to have Richard share them with me. 😊
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Such a fabulous city. The story of the brothers is so sad, talk about sibling rivalry! There’s something gruesomely fascinating about that knife though.
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I know, it’s a strange thing to hang in the market, but at the same time we really wanted to find it!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!! Maggie
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looks so enchanting and charming Maggie! Thanks for sharing! 💞
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Thanks Cindy, it is a great city for architecture and folklore! Maggie
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I see that/111 ❣️
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This brings back so many lovely memories, Maggie. I’ve been to all of these places, mostly in the company of my Polish family but sometimes wandering alone. We ate in the upstairs of that restaurant- a celebratory meal when Dad was reunited with his sister, Anna. Much of my earlier blog, Restlessjo, shares the stories. They were wonderful days.
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Glad we brought back good memories I’ll have a look for those old posts. Maggie
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There are links on my Home and About pages, Maggie. It’s a long story!
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What great tales! You are lucky to get that personalized tour.
My colleague spent some time teaching in Poland and loves it. She’s hoping to return someday soon and I’d like to visit, too.
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It’s really fun to tour the city with him and hear all of the stories. Another one for your list! Maggie
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Kraków looks truly magnificent with its ornate buildings and attention to detail. Too bad they tore down the city wall, but the park is a nice substitute. Great post Maggie!
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It is a really great Old Town, thanks for sharing your thoughts, Maggie
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A lovely post. We visited Krakow in 2020 and would love to go back. There is just so much to see! Thank you for sharing.
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It was my second time and I found it as stunning as the first time 😊
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Nice to see you in Poland. I am from Poland. We met in Kaszmir 5 years ago.I have visited Krakow many time but thanks your post I have a different perspective on this city.. I greet you and I wish you a pleasant experience in Polannd.
Kris
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Oh hi!! Glad you saw and liked this post. We were just in Krakow a few days ago and are now on our way to Uzbekistan. Hope you are both doing well. Maggie and Richard
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Growing up Kościuszko brand mustard was a favorite. Cheers!!
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Oh I’ll have to look for it!! Maggie
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Here’s one site. https://www.polana.com/products/kosciuszko-classic-polish-mustard
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Wow! We are heading to Krakow next year and this has served to fuel my excitement. I love the Old Town streets, and that view from the watchtower across to the castle – awesome.
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Oh great!!! I love Kraków!! There are so many great places. Let me know if you have any questions about it, I can ask my ‘guide’ 😊😊 Maggie
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I LOVED Krakow, which I saw with my daughter a number of years ago. We had so much fun trying to pronounce “Jagiellonian University” that even before getting to it in your post, I was waiting to ask if Richard was one of its illustrious graduates along with Copernicus?! It’s such a cool city (environs included), and we could have spent even more time there. Thanks for sharing all the places your volunteer tour guide took you! 🙂
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Haha he wishes!! He went down the street to the Engineering school. It is such a beautiful city and having a personalized tour was the best 😊
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I so enjoyed revisiting Krakow, one of my favourite cities in the world. I spent time there in 2016 l9ved seeking the photos and a couple of sports I didn’t see. I stayed on the central square which was an amazing place to stay and the entertainment on a summer evening was incredible. One day I hope to go back.
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Glad you got to revisit those memories 😊 Maggie
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Thank you!
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What an enchanting city, Maggie and Richard! So much history and beauty! I really enjoyed this post! ❤
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Thank you Cheryl I’m glad the beauty of Kraków came through n the post 😊
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While Kraków certainly looks pretty, I also love the anecdotes you included in this post. How unusual it is to see an artifact deemed important to a place’s history just being hung like that at Sukiennice — a market! It’s always a good idea to explore a place with the locals or someone who really knows it.
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Thanks Bama, it was do great to explore Richard’s home town like that. I thought the knife would be in a case with a plaque, but no, it just hangs on the wall. Most people don’t notice it or know what it is if they do. 😊
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Such an interesting place to visit! Loved the stories that accompany the history of the city.
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Thank you! It was fun to learn them too 😊 Maggie
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I have visited Krakow for Christmas 4 years ago, I spent a great time there ! Wonderful post, Maggie !
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Thank you Diana!
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Great stories included in your narrative. I spent a weekend in Krakow, staying in Kazimierz, the only European city I’ve seen where the Jewish Quarter was vibrant, busy, and alive. It was moving to be there.
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Kazimierz is a great part of the city. It’s history is awful but it has survived! 😊
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Such beautiful architecture that is similar to other large cities in neighbouring countries that I am currently visiting.
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The historical areas in these cities are just incredible aren’t they? Maggie
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In a discussion we wondered whether Krakow should be considered part of Mitteleuropa. For me, its baroque architecture is part of it.
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There is a lot of architecture from the Austro- Hungarian times, if that’s what you mean. Much different than northern Poland.
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It looks (and sounds) like Richard was a wonderful tour guide. I love all the medieval architecture in Old Town and how much character and history it has. What a wild story as to why the two towers of the main church are so different.
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He was a great guide! Kraków has such an amazing Old Town, I’m glad he could share the crazy old legends 😊
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That is a wonderful city!
Your wonderful photos and descriptions took me on a lovely trip down memory lane💐💐💐
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This is a city that I knew nothing about so it was fascinating to learn all about it and see your brautiful pictures of it. That must have been so great to have such a personal guide take you the city that he knew and get such insight on it.
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It really was great to have Richard as my guide. There are so many stories and legends to these old towns! Maggie
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You must have had a nice time in Krakow! Great tour guide 🙂 Beautiful post and photographs! 🙂
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Thanks Agata, it was a great few days in Kraków with my personal guide 😊 Maggie
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I have heard so much about how rich Poland’s history is and I can’t wait to see it for myself!
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Kraków is a definite must then! 😊
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Just left wonderful Krakow!
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Isn’t it a beautiful Old City!?
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Those old European cities have so much more character than our modern, new world cities. It’s almost annoying, but they’re so dang interesting to wander around…
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Haha I know! I find it most annoying that they are so far away 😊
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Visited Kraków a couple of times over a week or so and loved this city. Also visited Auschwitz and Birkenau, which are confronting but loathed when people took selfies in front of poignant sombre areas(kilns) inside the camps. Never visited the Salt Mine.
Thank you for reviving the experience from my library of memories!
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Glad you enjoyed the trip down memory lane. We only had a few days on this trip so didn’t visit Auschwitz, but I know what you mean about selfie-takers. I was going to tell you in your last post, we saw a number of ‘influencers’ these past few days in Samarkand, Uzbekistan in their flowy dresses in front of religious and historical monuments. Only there to take their pictures and leave. Not my type of visiting. Maggie
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Yes, I’ve seen those people. It reminds me of a checklist traveller – not my thing either. Cheers Nilla
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Kraków is such a beautiful city – the architecture is stunning, I especially like the Floriańska Gate and Sukiennice. What an interesting story about the two towers – no brotherly love there! Actually, I find all the legends/myths very interesting … imagine a children’s book written in Kraków. And that’s how I think you should explore a new city – with your own personal guide 😉!
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That’s a great idea for a children’s book! It does seem to be very Brothers Grimm 😊
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Thanks for this wonderful tour of Krakow! I hope to get there in person one day, and this makes more determined to do so. Great photos and stories.
Alison
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Thanks Alison, Kraków is less known than other Eurpoean Old Towns but it is no less spectacular, you should try to visit some day. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Maggie
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Great, Quality Content for The Ultimate Tour Guide, A lot of thanks for sharing, kindly keep with continue !!
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Thank you!
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Who can explain a city better than someone who grew up there? Exploring with a local is an emerging travel trend. In your case, you didn’t have to search for one! Haha! Lucky you are, Maggie!
Krakow must be the most popular city among travelers. And that Pretzel is so synonymous with the city!
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It was great to have my personal guide! There are so many stories that go with this city it was fun to have him tell them to me. And the pretzels were yummy! Maggie
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Krakow was the first city in Europe I visited, so it always has a special place in my heart. My favorite story was the bugel call in the tower, which abruptly stops midway – to pay tribute to a medieval tower-watcher who alerted the town to a mongol invasion and got shot by an arrow and died half-way through the call.
I’ve visited all these places, but I have learned a lot of interesting stories behind them from your blog, cheers !!
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Well what a great first European city for you to see! Glad you enjoyed the re-visit 😊 Maggie
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