The large city of Izmir is a popular place to use as a base to explore some of the surrounding sites such as Ephesus or Pamukkale. Although we didn’t come to the city for access to those sites, we did spend a few days exploring the city as well as the nearby ancient city of Pergamon.
Izmir
Izmir was built on the location of the ancient city of Smyrna. Unfortunately, most of it was destroyed by a fire during the Greco-Turkish War in 1922. As a result, today Izmir has more modern buildings than it does heritage sites.
One of the remaining structures from that time is KadifekaleĀ Castle. Situated atop Mount Pagos, the fortification was built by Alexander the Great and rebuilt by Byzantines and then again by Ottomans. Almost all that is left of the fortified city of Smyrna are sections of the defensive wall and a few of its towers. The best part of the site is climbing up the towers for great views of the city sprawled out below.
The only other feature that remains is a Roman cistern. This large reservoir provided water to the city’s 15,000 inhabitants. Ā
On the other side of the castle we could see remains of a Roman aqueduct with a busy road running through. We also looked toward a large head of the Father of modern Turkey, AtatĆ¼rk,Ā carved into the side of a cliff.Ā
Just below the castle is the prettiest mosque in the city. Fatih Mosque’s exterior is decorated in blue tiles. The colourful motif continues inside.
One of Izmir’s nicest features is its long boardwalk. On one side, is the dark coloured Mediterranean Sea. On the other, modern apartment buildings rise up to the sky above. Itās a popular place for locals and we often saw fishermen along the shore. The water was very rough when we were there. Huge waves crashed into the seawall covering the boardwalk with their spray.
Across from the boardwalk is the large, open Konak square with an Ottoman clock tower. In the same square is the cute Ottoman-built Konak Mosque. It’s exterior is adorned with pretty blue tiles around the windows and a short, attached minaret.
From the openness of the square, walking through the massive Kemeralti Bazaar felt a bit claustrophobic. Its labyrinth of lanes wind their way between the many shops. Unlike the waterfront, the age of many of the buildings make you feel like youāve stepped back to the time of Ottoman rule. It’s such a tight place that the Ottoman’s Hisar Mosque is barely visible. It’s outer walls are obstructed by busy shops and cafes.
Our favourite part of the bazaar was having a tea on colourful benches while listening to a lively folk band only steps from the old Mosque.
The city has a few nice spots, but it also has a lot of poverty. Run down homes in favela-style neighborhoods climb the city’s hills. Trash was littered on the streets, and we were approached by a lot of beggars, even in the nice parts of the city. All of this is so different from what we saw in the rest of Turkey.
Pergamon
A great day trip from Izmir is the Greco-Roman city of Pergamon, built on the top of a hill during the reign of Alexander the Great. After him the most unlikely of people took control. Philetarus the Eunuch became leader of the ancient city but it was his nephew and nephew’s descendants who developed it into one of the most beautiful and affluent cities in the region. Eventually the Romans became rulers of the area and added their own flair to the wealthy city. It was apparently so opulent and wild that in the 1st century, John the Baptist said the city was the seat of the devil.
Like all of these ruined cities, Pergamon fell from its glory and never regained its prestige. By the time the Ottoman arrived, the city had been long abandoned. The archeological site has a few indications of the glamor once enjoyed by this ancient city.
The most impressive building in Pergamon was built on the highest point of the mountain. The Roman-built Temple of Trajan, was a large building on an elevated platform and edged by tall columns. Along the tops of the columns are the remains of beautifully carved reliefs. It must have been stunning during its day. The temple was dedicated to both the Roman ruler Trajan and the Greek God Zeus.
The Altar of Zeus was also supposedly another beautiful building in Pergamon. In the late 19th century however, the structure was taken by German researchers and moved to Berlin. Such a shame that itās not on its original site.
A fascinating feature that shows the engineering that went into building this city can be seen from below the temples. To get between the temples and theatre we walked through a long corridor of Roman barrel vaults. More than just a walkway, they were used to support the buildings above.
Exiting the barrel vaults, we found ourselves above the Greek theatre. Its design is a little different from other theatres because the seats were built directly into the steep mountain slope instead of a stone foundation. We could even see grass growing between the seats. Even though it is in ruin, it is still a fantastic site. From the top seats you have sweeping views of the countryside below.
The rest of the acropolis spills out on to the slopes below the terraces. This part of the site is in much worse condition. and as a result is not often visited. The best restored feature in the lower village is a 2nd century house. Inside are many lovely mosaic floors, but the best floor is hidden in the back corner. Called the Room of Masks, the mosaic flooring has the most peculiar images of heads with almost frightened expressions. It is thought that this was originally a guest house. I think it would be a frightening place to be an overnight guest.
It’s a long walk down to reach the house but it was more than worth it. Parts of the old city are slowly being restored but the site is massive and much of it lies in ruins on the ground.
Getting to the Pergamon
From Bergama, you can either drive to the museum entrance on the top of the hill or take the cable car for 250 TRY ($8 USD) one-way.
Entrance Fee – 340 TRY ($11 USD); Opening Hours – 8:30am to 5:30pm
Bergama
Below the ancient city or Pergamon, is the Ottoman town of Bergama. It was touted as having great examples of Ottoman buildings, but unfortunately most were in disrepair.
The most interesting building is the 2nd century Red Basilica. The tall building was built from red stones that were cut to look like bricks.
When first built it was dedicated to Serapis and Isis, Egyptian Gods. Along the side of the building are Greek columns, but much different from other columns in Turkey. Statues of Egyptian gods formed most of the shafts of the columns. One was rebuilt with the Egyptian Deity Sekhmet as an example of how they would have looked. Wouldn’t it have been amazing to see when all of them were still standing?!
The building was converted to a church by the Byzantines, but the interior was demolished centuries ago. Today it’s a bare structure.
Getting to Bergama
If you have a car, Bergama is not difficult to reach from Izmir. Itās also possible to get there by public transit, but it takes quite a bit longer. From downtown Izmir the route involves a metro, train and bus. If you use the MoovIt app, it’s actually not too difficult.
To read more of our adventures from Turkey, click here.
Coming Next ā The Battles of Troy and Gallipoli
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To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
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Perhaps the scary images in the guest house in Pergamon is to discourage guests from overstaying their welcome. Meanwhile, Bergama has a peculiarly fetching style of its own that I like.
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Well it would work for me, I don’t think I’d get much sleep, so wouldn’t stay long š Bergama has a very ‘old soul’ feel to it.
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I wish we could see what all the structures of the Roman Empire looked like at their prime, I bet it was just stunning!
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Wouldn’t that be amazing!!
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I love the ruins, but at the same time, I feel like it’s such a shame they weren’t kept up.
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I know it would be amazing to see them at their best! Thanks Kymber
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I don’t feel especially drawn to visit Izmir, from your descriptions, but Pergamon looks really worth a visit, especially for the theatre and that house with the mosaic floors – so well preserved!
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I know some people like Izmir but it was our least favourite city in Turkey. Pergamon has a few nice things left, but the mosaic floors won the show for me š
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Such beautiful architecture and history. If we could all just appreciate the things that make us different and unique instead of trying to homogenize everything to fit our standards, the world would eb a much better place. Thanks for sharing Maggie. Have a great Friday. Allan
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That’s so true. It makes cities and towns very boring. Happy Friday!
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splendid!
love the 3D effect on the mosaic flooring.
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As always Maggie, you have done such a remarkable job with your accounts and photos of Izmir! What a spectacular adventure my friend. š°šøš
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Thank you Kym!! Happy Friday!!
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I appreciate that Maggie and you are so very welcome Ms. Explorer! šµš¼āāļøšøš Have a FANtabulous weekend! š
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The top of Izmir’s beautiful clock tower reminds me of similar decorative buildings in Old Cairo. And that mosqueāKonak Mosqueāis small, but tastefully designed. It must have been a unique feeling to stand near those mosaic floors that have survived for so long, yet still appear in pristine condition. Your posts have made me aware that Turkey has so much to offer away from its capital. Thanks for another great read.
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Konark Mosque is so cute. But the mosaic floors won the prize for me at this stop. They were in excellent condition, and no one else bothered to go down to see them! Thanks Mallee! Maggie
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So many mosques in Turkey are more than just places of worship – they are also reflecting the beauty of Islamic art and architecture which makes touring them an immensely rich and rewarding experience. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day š Aiva xx
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That’s very true Aiva, in some countries they are purposely not decorated inside, but these ones in Izmir were quite elaborate. Maggie
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I didnāt find Izmir to be a particularly attractive city and like you, noted the poverty that seems to be everywhere. Itās not surprising then that the government canāt keep up with all the maintenance required for these sites. They must have really been impressive in their heyday, though.
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There are so many ruins in Turkey, I’m sure the government has its hands full trying to prevent the decay. But museum prices keep rising so maybe they’ll start to restore more sites. I would love to travel back in time to see some of these places. Thanks Lynette! Maggie
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Pergamon is another famed destination for the lovers of the ancient world. The mosaics are exceptional, especially their level of preservation. It is saddening to read about the poverty you witnessed in Izmir. I can understand your disappointment with the city, compared to other amazing places you visited in Turkey, it does not seem to have much to offer. I do have a friend who lived there for a year as a digital nomad and absolutely loved it.
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I think it may well be a decent city to live in, but as a visitor, it didn’t offer much and the poverty, litter and begging really got to us. But Pergamon was fascinating! Thanks Leighton, Maggie
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Can you imagine the patience and time it took to create those intricately designed mosaics?
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I can’t even imagine! They were true artisans. Thanks Janice! Maggie
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So many beautiful locations here. The tile work is so detailed and exquisite. We havenāt been to Turkey, but it looks like a stunning place. Thanks Maggie, for sharing!
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The tiled floors were definitely my favourite! š
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We have very fond memories of our two visits to Izmir. For us it felt properly āordinaryā, if you know what we mean. Itās a city going about its own business. The comparison between the poverty in its dark corners (and for that matter in nearby mountain villages) and the hedonistic indulgence of Alsancak where the young and wealthy enjoy nights outā¦.is stark. The Izmir bazaar is much more authentic than Istanbulās Grand Bazaar, too. Still filled with locals. I get the feeling we liked it a bit more than you did!
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I think you two did like Izmir a lot more than us. It was our least favourite Turkish city. It just didn’t hold up to all of the great cities we saw in the eastern part of the country. And until then, everywhere was so clean, and there was a lot of litter on the streets. It’s true the market was better than Istanbul’s, and probably our favourite part of the city. Can’t love them all š
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Well, you have to have a well rounded experience and you’ve certainly done that in Turkey, Maggie. I doubt I’d head for Izmir but that blue mosque and clock tower are beautiful, and access to Pergamon is a real bonus.
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We try to see it all when we visit a country because we may never be back. Thanks Jo! Maggie
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Great photos Maggie. And thank you for noting the previous name of Izmir (Smyrna). I like the modern part of the city and how well they have built up the city since the 1922 events. This is a pretty ancient part of the world, I was pleased/surprised to see any ruins at all still standing! It was news to me that there was an Egyptian influence in the area in 2nd Century Bergama! Very interesting. The trek to that house…Ooh so steep. Thank you for braving the steep climb down and then up again. The Bazaar looked very authentic and looks like it did probably hundreds of years ago. I was impressed with the Theatre. I have not seen a Roman Theatre one set so high on a hill before…what an architectural feat. Thanks for sharing your journeys Maggie. Safe travels!
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Bergamo is the only place where we found the Egyptian influence. It was due to trade routes through the area I think. We hadn’t seen a theatre like that before either, and no hand rails on the steep descent! But it was worth it to see those floors. Thanks again Suzette for adding such thorough comments! Happe Frdiay! It’s epic skiing right now by the way š
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Oh, good to know trade routes make sense. Thank you! Happy skiing! Enjoy. Thanks again for all the great information, Maggie. Cheers, eh. Happy Friday!
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Iām curious as to why Izmir was a lot dirtier and seemingly had more poverty then other places youāve visited? Do you think there are a lot of migrants that have settled there trying to make a life?
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I’m not sure. It didn’t seem like there were a lot of migrants, although we did see a few, likley from Africa. But we walked through one of the poor neighbourhoods and the people were mostly Turkish. Apparently eastern Turkey has less wealth, but in Izmir it was more obvious and not as well looked after. I’m not sure the reason.
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Thanks for the reply Maggie. X
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There is so much to say about your photos and your writing. So much beauty. I do love your favorite mosque. So much to see.
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Maggie, years ago we based ourselves in Izmir for a visit to Ephesus. We really enjoyed Ephesus, but from your excellent photos it appears we should have gone to Pergamon as well. I love Roman ruins, particularly mosaic floors and walls. Your photos make me envious. We’ve toyed with returning to Turkey on our next trip to Europe, and we’ll think about Pergamon. Nice post! ~James
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Pergamon is nothing like Ephesus but there are a few good buildings. The House of Masks was definitely one. There’s so much to see in Turkey, it’s worth a return visit š
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I love this pictorial journey to Izmir. Thank you for this beautiful post!
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Thanks for coming along š
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Itās impressive how many of these ruins still exist, even if some of them are in a state of disrepair. The mosaic flooring looks beautiful. Love the shot of the barrel vaults and theatre.
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Thanks Linda, It is really unbelievable how many Roman/Greek ruins there are in Turkey. And many are in decent shape. The barrel vaults was so unique! Maggie
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Love the tiles in the pictures.
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I know, I’d love them in my house!! š
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The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is very impressive, with its reconstruction of several ancient sites. I understand that the contemporary approach is to leave the remains in situ, but I’m sure visits to the museum must have inspired many a visit to Turkey.
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Oh good point, maybe it’s not a complete loss. I bet they look fantastic.
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I’d heard of Izmir but knew little about the city so thanks for your insights.
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You’re welcome, thanks for reading š Maggie
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The Greek Theater is impressive. The House of masks-creepy. Fabulous pics-and such detailed information!
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Ha, you’re right for both š Thanks Nancy, Maggie
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Wow.
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Thanks Kelly š Maggie
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Agreed – not the greatest decor for a guest bedroom. This is where the Turkish carpets should go.
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Ha yes, although I love the tiles, I don’t think I’d be able to sleep š Maggie
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Nice to see these pictures. We visited the remains of the Asklepieion in the area, driving through Bergama to get there. We could see the remains of Pergamon on a hill in the distance.
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We actually walked to Asklepieion but decided not to go in. The costs of the museums just kept going up and up and we were tired of it. Was it good?
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There were the unique artifacts of the hospital area and the place where they treated patients having mental issues.āWe had a guide who gave us good information about the practice of “medicine” in those days.āThe people treating the patients were actually priests!āThe rest of it was what you usually find when you visit the archeological sights in Turkiye, including the theater and an open space for outdoor activities.
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Thanks
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I remember we picked up and returned a car to Izmir but we didn’t stay there. My fave things from this post are the barrel vaults and those wonderful scary faces.
Alison
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Those were my favourite as well. š
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Another wonderful part of Turkey to explore. Pergamon (I’ve been to the museum in Berlin) would be fascinating and that has to be the prettiest clock tower I’ve ever seen!
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As much as I don’t like the fact that the temple is in Berlin, I would like to see it. The clock is very pretty š
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Cool theatre. And that first mosque was so pretty!
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The theatre is very unique. It is truly built into the mountain. š Maggie
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I love those blue tiles of the mosque- just makes the whole place seem so bright and happy. And that picture of the barrel vaults is fantastic. š
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I love anything with blue tiles š But the barrel vaulted walkway was really impressive. Thanks Meg! Maggie
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I’ve read about the Pergamon Altar before, but I didn’t realize that the ancient city of Pergamon is in modern-day Turkey. This country really deserves weeks, even months, to explore! You guys really know your way to spectacular and unique mosaic floors — the Room of Masks is enough reason for me to make a detour to this part of Turkey if I happen to be in that part of the world one day.
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You do need multiple trips or a lot of time for Turkey, there are so many fascinating things to see. I can’t believe we stumbled on the Room of Masks! Could you imagine being a guest there! š
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What amazing history. You guys covered a lot of ground. How long did you spend in Turkey? In our notes about Turkey virtually all the information is from you. Thanks a bunch!
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We were there for 3 months. It’s an amazing country to visit, I hope you get there š Maggie
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That sounds like the right amount of time. Lots to see. Turkey is high on our list which is huge at the moment. š
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Ha, yes ours is large too, but we can’t say enough good things about Turkey so keep it up there š Maggie
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So much fascinating history and equally fascinating structures. One never stops to be amazed.
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We were constantly amazed at the sites š Maggie
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Within the storied ruins of Pergamon, your thoughts might drift to Galen, its most illustrious son who is also known as “Galen of Pergamon.” A physician whose genius melded with the city’s spirit of innovation, Galen’s legacy in medicine and philosophy still pulses through the ages, echoing the advanced civilization that once flourished here.
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Yes they have medical crntre ruins Iin the city, but we couldn’t go to both. I’ve heard mixed reviews about it. Interesting history though.
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Now I know more about the place Galen was associated with. Thanks, Maggie
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I agree, Iām not going to spend the night in the house of masks. No thank you.
I had a roommate from Izmir for a while when I was in grad school, so this was interesting to see some photos of the city. Itās larger than I realized.
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Oh that’s interesting! Are you still in touch with her? Izmir is a huge city and may be OK to live in but it’s not really interesting from a visitor’s perspective.
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Iām not, to be honest she was not a good roommate.
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Love the clock tower, and mosques – many places don’t allow photographs in them. Those creepy mosaic faces…!
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Now those floors I may not want in my room, but they are pretty amazing š
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Sounds like a beautiful city – the mosaics are amazing
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The mosaic floors in Pergamom were my favourite! Thanks for your note š
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