When you think of ancient temples in Myanmar, Bagan is usually what comes to mind, but that’s not the only site worth visiting in Myanmar. Mrauk U offers travelers archeological sites that more rural, less visited but by no means, less impressive.
In the far western Myanmar state of Rakhine are the rarely visited, but very fascinating Buddhist temples of Mrauk U. The city name is pronounced Mrow OO in the Rakhine state and Meow OO in the rest of Myanmar. From the 15th – 18th centuries Mrauk U was the wealthiest city in South East Asia as it was an important trading port for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. During this time Rakhine kings built a beautiful palace and many pagodas, zedis and temples.
When the British arrived, they moved the state capital from Mrauk U to Sittwe. Because of this, the sacred Buddhist structures in Mrauk U were forgotten. Many became covered in an over-grown jungle. Even today they are still finding ruins that have been covered for years.
Even with this rich history this area only sees 4,000 – 5,000 tourists a year. Mrauk U is close to the border with Bangladesh. With the recent Rohingya disturbance and the way it has been portrayed in the media, tourists are staying away. We found it perfectly safe and very far away from any unrest.
The ruins are spread throughout the town and neighboring countryside. Exploring the sites means walking on the dusty roads between homes, shops, farms and hillocks. This atmosphere makes it feel less like a tourist site and more enjoyable in some ways.
Lay Myet Hna U pagoda surrounded by pastures and rice fields
The architecture of these pagodas and zedis (stupas) is quite different from those in other parts of Myanmar and neighbouring Thailand. Most importantly, they often used stone, rather than brick. Also, their shape is different. Some are more rounded like a bell, while others have sharp corners. Some have thick walls making them look like fortresses.
Zedis (stupas) are bell-shaped structures that either contain remains, relics or represent an important event or belief in Buddhism. A few very old zedis in South Asia are said to contain Buddha’s ashes. The belief is that Peisi Daung zedi predates the Rakhine kings and contains the ashes of the right and left testicles of Buddha! The zedi has not been restored and only four Buddha statues remain. Another important site is Andaw Temple. It is said to house a Buddha tooth relic.
Koe Thaung Temple is one of the highlights of Mrauk U. This large temple is surrounded by hundreds of small pagodas. Inside, the walls are covered with 90,000 images of Buddha.
We were able to enter some of the larger pagodas. Inside we found one or sometimes two tight, vaulted hallways that circled around the inside of the pagoda. Each hallway has hundreds of stone statues. One had statues depicting daily chores, dancing, fashion and hairstyles of the time. Another had statues of the animals and mythical creatures that represent some of the previous incarnations of Buddha. It was very interesting to be inside these pagodas as we haven’t been able to do that at other sites.
The rural setting makes for wonderful views, especially at sunrise and sunset. The combination of mist and smoke from open fires added a sense of mystery to the scenes.
Sunrise
Sunset
The people in Mrauk U were very curious about us since very few tourists visit the area. They would often stare at us until we smiled at them. Then, their faces lit up with a large smile as they said hello in Rakhine. Some people stopped as they rode by on their bikes to ask which country we are from.
Today Mrauk U is far from the wealthy city it once was and the people of Mrauk U have a difficult life. They cook over an open flame, live in very basic homes any many have strenuous manual labour jobs. We saw an example of this hard work when we passed a group of construction workers paving a road by hand.
Chin Tribal Villages
An hour and a half by boat up the Lay Mro River are the fascinating Chin tribal villages. Until 60 years ago their custom was to tattoo the faces of girls. There are differing beliefs on why this was done. Some believe it was for cosmetic reasons, others say it was to distinguish their girls from those of neighboring tribes. Apparently they believed it would prevent the girls from being kidnapped or marry outside of their tribe.
Each tribe had a different tattoo design. We visited two villages who used the spider web design. The tattooed-face women, now in their late 70s and 80s, were only 9 when they were tattooed. These ladies were very friendly. At one village, each one came to greet us and shake our hands. It is now a revenue source for the village, but we found these women much more friendly than those we met at other, similar tourist sites.
We met one family in their bamboo house and it was one of the best parts of our day. The tattooed-face lady was in her 80s as was her husband and family friend. The husband was very interested in speaking with us through our guide. He hadn’t heard of Canada, but was able to understand where it was when we told him that it’s in North America. He said that the three of us must have each done a good dead in our previous lives to meet each other today – what a nice sentiment.
He explained that he had 2 wives, close to his age, but when one died he took another who looked to be in her mid 20s! Polygamy is common in these tribes even though it is not a usual practice for Buddhists.
Getting to Mrauk U – Mrauk U is not easy to access. The nearest airport is in Sittwe, the capital of Rakhine. Flights leave a few times a day between Sittwe and Yangon or Mandalay. From Sittwe you can take a 6 hour boat ride or 4 hour bus to Mrauk U. Buses are also available from Yangon, but take as much as 12 hours.
Where to stay – There are a few nice tourist hotels in Mrauk U with reasonable prices. There are a few restaurants in town as well as at most hotels.
Guides – We used Hla Thein, a local guide. We found him very knowledgeable, friendly and honest and recommend Hla. You can find him on Facebook or if your interested you can contact us at monkeystale.ca@gmail.com for his contact info. We do not receive compensation for this referral.
Coming up Next – Myanmar’s Rural South
For extra pics from this trip go to Gallery/Myanmar. For extra pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca Click on a picture to view it as a slide show.
Click on the link to read about our other trips from Myanmar or click Destinations for other places in the world.
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Monkey's Tale 
Stunning pictures, this all looks incredible!
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Thank you, It’s too bad more people don’t see it because it really is incredible.
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Awesome!
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Thanks!
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Faszinating report with and wonderful photos. I have not traveled to Myanmar because the Rohinga matter kept me away.
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There was absolutely no problem with the Rohinga in 2018 when we were there. There are parts of Myanmar that tourists aren’t allowed because of safety concerns but the main tourist sites are completely safe.
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So nice when historical sites are not overrun with tourists and therefore survive. Looks the same for the Chin peoples. Sometimes, things need to be appreciated for their differences, rather than being assimilated into a conglomerate. How were the safety concerns in Myanmar? Thanks for sharing. Stay well. Allan
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It really felt more like we were experiencing Myanmar rather than just seeing it in Mrauk U. We felt perfectly safe. There are parts of the country that you’re not allowed for safety concerns and the government will close places if it gets worse. The only place we felt unsafe was in Sittwe. Our hotel didn’t want us to go out after dark and arranged transportation for us. It probably wasn’t even that bad but no one in tourism want anything to happen. I think they were worried about muggings but all we saw were curious locals. One of Canada’s Ambassadors was vacationing in Ngapali beach resort
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I hit se d too early. He was vacationing when we were there.
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Amazing discovery, we’ve never heard of these remote temples. They are stunning! The fact that they are out of the way and not yet discovered by mass tourism makes them all the more appealing. I can’t help but feel a deep empathy for these women who were once subjected to facial tattoos. Hope their life is somewhat better now.
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Mrauk U was incredible! We enjoyed it more then Bagan in many ways. I think the Chin women now bring in more money for their villages than any one else so they are highly regarded. They were so friendly and seemed genuinely happy.
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Beautiful captures and a brilliant post!
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Thank you!
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Its a pleasure Maggie and Richard!
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Wow! Those photos are incredible! The people sound really great too. I’m glad you had such a rich experience there 😊
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Thanks, it’s an amazing place and the people are wonderful.
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Fascinating place with incredible architecture. Loved reading about your interactions with local/ native people. Another bucket list place. Must dedicate time to reading more of your travels. Thank you 🙏
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Thanks so much, it’s really an interesting place and with so few tourists the locals are very friendly.
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Subject, photos, text, everything is perfect in this article. It’s nice to see how equally interested you are in monuments and people. The meetings and discussions have certainly enriched your view of the country, while also bringing something to those you have met and considered.
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That’s true as fascinating as a country’s history and monuments may be, it’s the people who really make it special. I’ll remember that man from the Chin village for the rest of my life.
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I have never heard about this Town before. In many ways this draws similarities with the Ankor Wat. Huge temple spread in large areas, forgotten and out of use. Thankfully, it’s not the case with them anymore. Looks like a great find.
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It was a really great find. It’s similar to Angkor Wat or Bagan but it’s must less visited and set amongst the homes and farms so feels more pleasant and calm.
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I get that. Ankor Wat has become quite touristy over the years.
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Mrauk U is one of those places that make my mind wander. Ever since I saw photos of its centuries-old Buddhist structures situated in a lush setting and shrouded by mist and/or smoke, I’ve been dreaming of seeing this place one day. I did notice the different color of those zedis and stupas at Mrauk U, and now I know why. The fact that the people in this region used stones instead of bricks to build them is in itself very interesting.
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You would love Mrauk U Bama. We had so many more amazing pictures that we couldn’t include in this post. Everywhere you look are dozens of zedis and pagodas sticking above the trees or through the smoke. Their design is so unique and the setting so rural, it’s a very special place. The other thing that’s different is the walls are very thick apparently because the wind can be very strong but we didn’t experience this.
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Fabulous photos, it looks such an interesting country, it was safety issues which kept it of our list but we may need to re think that for the future
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The Myanmar government won’t let tourists in or even close to the dangerous areas. We felt completely safe, as safe as Thailand or Laos. The only place we didn’t feel comfortable was in Sitteee where we had to overnight for this trip. Our hotel gave us good information for what we could do and arranged our transportation. I actually don’t think it was even bad there but some insurgents come to the city. Consider it again. Our next post goes to another less touristy but equally fascinating part of Myanmar.
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This place is incredible and its history incredibly interesting. It’s neat that the ruins are spread throughout the town and countryside and is a good excuse to see more of the area. The sunrise and sunset photos are just stunning.
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Yes it’s such a great site and feels like you can immerse yourself in it more than others we’ve been to.
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This post started out fascinating and then just got more and more fascinating as I went. You guys are a National Geographic special unto yourselves.
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Haha! This was one of the most fascinating places. I won’t say we weren’t a bit worried about the Rohinga uprising but I’m so glad we went as it was completely safe and such an incredible place.
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What a great post! Wonderful pictures!!
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Thank you!
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Wow this looks absolutely incredible. I love your stunning photos of the people almost more than of the views – you have captured them in that moment and it’s really special 🙂
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Thank you! The Chin people were a highlight. They were so friendly and welcoming glad we were able to capture their spirit.
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Fascinating account and wonderful photos. Learning about the Chin people, I loved the beautiful photos of the women’s faces.
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Thank you, the women are lovely, you can see their kindness in their eyes. It was a highlight to meet them.
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Fascinating places, with a long and interesting history. I love the morning mist, it makes a surreal landscape. So much to learn from your trips, you found so many interesting places to visit🙂
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Thanks Christie, the views in Mrauk U were awesome with the rolling hills and pagodas surrouded by mist/smoke. It was quite smokey though and our lungs really felt it, but so glad we went.
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Great photos and blog; I hope to visit Myanmar someday.
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Very nice, the pictures are wonderful!
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Thank you, there are so many spots with stunning views in Mrauk U!
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Thank you for the tour! Beautiful photos.
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Thank you, glad you enjoyed it:)
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We were there a long time ago…brings back memories of our time there. Love these photos.
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Thanks, it’s a great country to visit, so much to see.
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Before this, I had only heard of Bagan. Thanks for the intro to Mrauk U. Your photos, especially the moody ones with the mist and smoke are gorgeous–makes it worthwhile to get up early in the morning. That’s so interesting about the tattooed faces and a good thing you visited when you did. It sounds like in another 10-20 years there won’t be any living evidence of this tradition.
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Mrauk U is a little harder to get to and at times is closed to tourists so it’s less known. It was great though to be in such a low key site. The mist and smoke were great for the pictures, but after a month in Myanmar my throat and lungs were screaming. The Chan women were so lovely. We thought it was going to be similar to seeing the Karen women in Thailand, but probably since they get fewer tourists, these women were so friendly. Even inviting us into their homes. And yes, it won’t be long until they’re gone. We weren’t sure about going to Mrauk U because of the Rohinga but a Canadian Ambassador was vacationing at a beach resort not far away so we figured it was safe:)
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When were you there?
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2018. We went on our 20 month trip. I’m re -writing some of my old posts because I didn’t have any followers then so no one read them, but my writing was so bad it’s probably a good thing!
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Beautiful. Ready to trot off February have you ever been to Montenegro?
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No we haven’t is that here you’re going?
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Just looking where’s open and not too shitty close by. North Macedonia too apparently!!!!
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