Green mountains rise up steeply from the island’s shore leaving only enough room for a few pristine beaches along their edges. Surrounding them is crystalline, turquoise water. These are the islands of Brazil’s Costa Verde and Ilha Grande is its shining star.
As we drove toward Costa Verde we noticed that the landscape has changed. No longer were the hills arid as they were in Búzios, on Rio’s east. We were now driving through the lush Atlantic Forest that climbs from the shore to the tops of the Sera do Mar Mountain Range. This landscape hugs the 280 km long coast between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo and is what gives the area its name. Costa Verde translates in English to Green Coast.
The tree covered mountains continue on the islands. All we can see are tall green peaks surrounded by water. We visited a few spots along Costa Verde and one of the most picturesque is Ilha Grande.
As we travelled on the ferry from the mainland across Baia Ilha Grande the scenery made it feel like we must be on an exclusive cruise rather than a slow, clunky ferry. Behind us, the rainforest covered peaks go on for as far as we can see. In front of us, the views kept getting better and better. The islands’ mountains seemed to come right down to the water’s edge allowing only a few places for homes and beaches.
Ilha Grande
Its name translates in English to Big Island so we knew it would be large. In fact it is the largest of the islands in Baia Ilha Grande. There are many hiking trails on this mountainous island. Some take you across the island to various beaches, but as we arrived by ferry and saw Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), we knew we wanted to hike to its top.
If you are walking from town it is 6 km to reach the top, but the first 2.3 km are easy on a dirt road. The real adventure doesn’t start until you’re on the hiking trail. The route is very steep and travels over slippery mud, roots and rock as it climbs 980 m in only 3.7 km. It was tough gaining that much elevation in a short hike. The skies were a bit cloudy so the temperatures were fairly cool and we had high hopes the clouds would disperse by the time we reached the summit.
The dense rainforest didn’t allow us to see what awaited us. In fact, it wasn’t until we got to the very top of Parrot Peak that we had any views at all. First we saw the Parrot feature from below. It looked completely different than it did from the beach. From this angle, instead of a parrot it looked more like a teddy bear with big ears.
Finally we climbed to the top of the peak. As we arrived the clouds lifted and presented us with a 360° view of the island. Laid out in front of us were multiple mountain ridges leading down to form coves that are filled in with sandy beaches. Gorgeous turquoise water tops off the beauty of the island.
The peak is directly above the main town, Abraão. We could see it filling in the lowland between two long, green points. What an amazing view.
Lagunas Verde and Azul
Many parts of Ilha Grande are only reached by boat. Having received a taste of the scenery from the ferry, we knew we wanted to see more so took a boat tour to visit some of the idyllic spots on this island as well as visiting a few other islands. The two most popular spots are Lagunas Verde and Azul. Neither is a lake or lagoon but instead are shallow inlets on the edge of Ilha Grande. The sandy bottom and clear water in Laguna Verde results in a fabulous green coloured water. Laguna Azul has gorgeous blue water lapping up to a rocky shore. The day was spent visiting these and many more pristine spots.
Large storm clouds were forming in the distance making a dramatic change to the scenery. It was the end of our day, but we didn’t quite make it back to our hotel without getting wet.
Vila do Abraão
Since Ilha Grande has so many pretty spots and it is easy to access from the mainland, it is a very popular tourist destination. Despite that popularity, the main town, Vila do Abraão, is very laid back. Funky restaurants, coffee shops, small hotels and tour operators line its sandy roads. Personal vehicles aren’t allowed on the island and there are only a few local vehicles so the few roads that exist are mostly pedestrian walkways. The lack of cars in Abraão adds to its appeal.
How to get to Ilha Grande
The only way to reach Vila do Abraão on Ilha Grande is by boat. Ferries and fast boats leave from the coastal towns of Mangaratiba, Conceição de Jacareí and Angra dos Reis. We took the ferry one way and a speed boat the other. The speed boat gets you there in half the time, but the ride is very choppy and it doesn’t allow you to enjoy the views. Buses leave frequently throughout the day from the Rodoviaria in Rio de Janeiro destined for these port cities. There are also tour agencies that offer door to door service including boat transfer.
We couldn’t arrive in time to catch a ferry on the same day so stayed overnight in Angra dos Reis. We had no expectations, but found it to be a nice town with a few good restaurants, safe streets and a nice downtown shopping district.
Where to stay on Ilha Grande
There are almost too many choices on where to stay on Ilha Grande. Most of the hotels and restaurants are located in Vila do Abraão. It really doesn’t matter what part of this small town you stay, nothing is very far away. There are resorts scattered around the island’s edge if you prefer a quieter setting. We stayed in Pousada Guapuruvu and enjoyed their lovely garden where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast each morning.
When to visit
With all of the greenery on Costa Verde, you must know that it rains a lot. December to February are the rainiest times with as much as 250 mm of rain a month. We were there in November, before rainy season, and still experienced quite a bit of rain. Spring (Sept to Nov) and fall (March to May) are considered the best times to visit with temperatures 23-27°C and less rain. Winter has the least amount of rain, but temperatures can be much lower from 11-23 °C.
To read about our other adventures in Brazil click here.
Coming Next – Costa Verde – Ilhabela
For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca
To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
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Monkey's Tale 
The locale certainly does live up to its name. I can almost feel the humidity and warmth through the photographs.
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Some names are easy to figure out I think😊
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💙
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Merci beaucoup!
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I really like the views from the ferry, the kind that will keep me busy with my camera. And of course you went up to Pico do Papagaio! 😁 What you saw from up there really looks amazing. I love how green the island is and how blue the sea around it is. Vila do Abraão itself seems like a very nice place to wind down and relax. I’m definitely adding this island on the list of places I want to see around Rio.
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It remains one of our favourites! 😊
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I wonder if the vegetation in this forest is the same as the forests of Kerela in South India. I have always read that the forests in S America are very thick in vegetation.
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We didn’t get very far away from the backwaters in Kerala so I have no idea. These forests on Costa Verde are do dense you wouldn’t be able to step off the trail. I can’t imagine how difficult it was to make the hiking trails.
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I get your points. I have seen many documentaries, of course, it is no match for the real experience but this is best I can do without leaving my city 🙂
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Absolutely beautiful pictures! The views from the top of the hike are incredible. Definitely worth the tricky trek up. Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks Lyssy, it was definitely worth it! Maggie
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Thank you for taking us along on another Brazilian adventure!
The parrot/bear peak is interesting. The vegetation (heliconia, coconuts) look familiar, but there’s a lot more than meets the eye.
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Thanks for coming along! 😊
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Wow, this is beautiful! That hike up Parrot Peak might be my favorite hike you’ve done in Brazil. How fortunate that the clouds moved out of the way just in time. I love when that happens!
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I can’t believe our luck that the skies cleared for us. I would have hated to miss that view! 😊
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Absolutely stunning Maggie. I can see the attraction. The climb to the summit was well worth it when the mists parted. The town looks idyllic. But, like you say, if you want to live there, you had better like rain. Thanks for taking us there. Allan
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We’re so glad we got a few good days of sun, because I’d hate to have missed the incredible scenery! Maggie
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Always enjoy your stories travels and pictures. Rock on. Very best!
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Stunning vistas Maggie. Beautiful pictures you’ve taken. Thanks so much for sharing your treasures and adventures with us. 🌅🌳🗻🌿🌄
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Thank you Kym, glad you enjoyed them!! Maggie
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Oh Maggie you are so very welcome! Happy trails to you! 🤗🦋🌞
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Stunning. Certainly a nice place to spend some time. I love the lack of cars. The thought of no vehicle noise would make me want to stay even longer.
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Us too! 😊
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Vila do Abraão looks a great place to spend a few days even if, like me, you’re not up to that hike! Another one added to the ‘if we go back to Brazil’ list 😆
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Yes, definitely a must-see place. It is high on our list of favourite place in Brazil.
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Thank you very much, dear Maggie
You take me to places in the world that I have never visited❣️❣️❣️
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Glad you’re seeing them through out lens, Maggie
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Thank you very much, once more 🙏
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What an incredible place to hike! Love the rolling hills and quiet town and that striking heliconias tucked in the greens. 🙂
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It was one of our favourite views in Brazil. The heliconia really stuck out in the green forest.
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Always love a ferry trip and the scenery is glorious, Maggie 🤗🩷
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Yes, this was one of the most beautiful ferry rides we had in Brazil. Thanks Jo! Maggie
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Yet another beautiful corner. I can absolutely understand why the parrot called you up the mountain, you just knew you were going to get fantastic views, and you certainly did.
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This one should be on your list too!
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What an idyllic location Maggie especially the views from the ferry. I love the forest covered mountains.
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It’s such a beautiful coast, it was a joy to take the slow ferry through it! Maggie
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It’s such a unique island. We only spent 4 nights but a week would have been better. Did you hike to the abandoned prison and old Aqueduct? Sorrentinas for ravioli? (so yum) We had wanted to do some diving but the conditions and visibility were not to our liking. We did do a boat tour to 3 other small islands with fabulous beaches. Lots to see and do there or just chill out. Great post!
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No we didn’t hike to the prison, I think you guys did? We discovered Sorrentinas on our last night. One of the best meals I had in all of Brazil, I wish we found it on our first night!! We loved Ilha Grande and also could have easily spent more time there.
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Yes, we did hike to the prison and a great swimming hole just beyond the Aqueduct ruins. Sorrentinas and Lua e Mar, restaurants were a few of the favorites of our trip. We head back to Brazil on July 1st and hope to cover a lot of ground that you did in the north. Cheers!
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I meant to say that we looked into diving, but the reports were that great so we decided not to.
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What a stunning place! Thanks for taking us up to the peak!
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You’re welcome, glad we could share those views with you!! Maggie
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You have some amazing photos of this beautiful area. It seems to be even more inviting given the lack of traffic noise. Thanks for sharing!
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Yes, the lack of traffic really made the island more relaxed. It is such a beautiful place and the laid back town added to our love of the island.
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Ilha Grande is fabulous! Your photos show the landscapes so beautifully. The hike sounds tough, but what a rewarding view from the top. Thank you for sharing Vila do Abraao too. It looks like a wonderful place so wander around for an afternoon.
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The hike was tough, but the views were so worth it! Thankfully the clouds dispersed for us. Thanks for reading and commenting! Maggie
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Really enjoying your posts from Brazil, a place that doesn’t feature much in the travel itineraries of most people, at least in the U.K. Parrot Peak looked like a top that had to be climbed!
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It does, and it was!! We really fell in love with Brazil. They don’t have a lot of international visitors, but they should, they have so many beautiful landscapes and the people are very friendly. Maggie
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I enjoyed your descriptions, and the photos did not disappoint. Love the jackfruit tree and the turquoise water! So peaceful an area. Must be a great place to live. Thank you, Maggie. Always a delight.
P.S Do you do videos of your travels for YouTube or such fare!
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I would love to live there!! No, we don’t do YouTube, just a few videos that are more like slideshows. I’m not really an ‘in front of the camera’ person 🙂 Maggie
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Awesome. Okay.
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Such beauty Maggie, from start to finish. The hike was worth it, that’s for sure. I find myself particularly enamoured by Angra dos Reis. I think Sladja and I could happily nestle ourselves on that hillside for a month or so teaching and blogging. Did you have a room with a view?
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We did have a room with a view! Although we didn’t stay long enough to enjoy it. We had a great apartment, so if you’re ever looking I can recommend a place. Maggie
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Your pictures prove that Costa Rica is every bit as beautiful as advertised.
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Those photos are stunning. Beautiful
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Oh wow, what a beautiful place with stunning landscapes. I especially love the views at Pico do Papagaio. Thanks for sharing your photos; they are so beautiful.
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Thanks Nat, the view from the summit was our favourite part 😊 Maggie
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The Green Coast seems very aptly named. Everything looks so lush and full of life. And of course you wanted to hike to the top of Parrot Peak! The views from the summit look stunning.
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The views were amazing from the summit. I’m so glad the clouds lifted to let us see them!!
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I don’t imagine land this lush on the Atlantic – what a treat! It almost looks like Hawaii. We would have wanted to climb up to Parrot Peak also … were there any scary creatures hiding in all that vegetation?! The views were worth it, it appears!
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There likely were scary creatures, but thankfully we didn’t see anything. The views were definitely worth it, and the clouds lifted at the perfect time, just for us 😊 Maggie
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Not sure I envy the steep hike, but the views look tremendous. Did you snorkel any of the waters?
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There really aren’t enough fish and no reef so it not very good for snorkeling or diving. Some people went but I think it was more for the swim than to see anything.
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Strolling through Vila do Abraão would be like going back in time. What a wonderful experience that would be!
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You find the best spots. This town looks wonderful.
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It was!! This was on the top of the list!!
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What an idyllic part of the world. I don’t blame you for climbing Pico do Papagaio, I think I would have done the same just to see what the peak looked like up close. The views from the top are breathtaking.
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It was one of our favourite views on our whole trip!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts 😊 Maggie
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Just wow, it’s absolutely amazingly beautiful. The views on the trek look incredible 🙂 And I’d love to spend hours just lying on Praia Japariz. Wow.
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Ilha Grande is amazing, it’s high on the list of favourite places in Brazil. 😊🏖
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Lovely vistas, especially the verdant hills overlooking the blue water.
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Yes it is such a beautiful area. Thanks for reading Kerry! Maggie
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Mi plaisir!
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Thanks for sharing your gorgeous trip Maggi. soooo beautiful! ❣️
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Thanks Cindy, it is yet another beautiful spot in Brazil 😊
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The photos from the ferry are beautiful – it just feels like holiday! Yes, it’s definitely a bear with big ears 😁. You had beautiful views from the top – it’s amazing how far you can see, right? And I love how the colour of the water changes as the weather changes.
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The views from the hike were some of the best on the trip, from on top of that bear 😊. And yes the water seemed to change with the sun and clouds.
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