High on a hill above the medieval city of Veliko Tarnovo, sits an old fortress where the tale of this enchanting city begins. As the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, Veliko Tarnovo, is one of the oldest communities in Bulgaria. From exploring the hilltop fortress to wandering the historic city streets, we can see why it is called Bulgaria’s prettiest city.
Throughout the 150 years of Byzantine rule, the Bulgarian spirit was never far from the surface. Its people always wanted to regain their independence. In 1185 the Asen brothers led a Bulgarian revolution that defeated the Byzantines resulting in the Second Bulgarian Empire. This new Bulgaria continued to be led by the Asen family, and under Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218–41), the empire reached its pinnacle. With the capital of this new empire established in Tarnovo, Bulgaria became a powerhouse and ruled much of the Baltics. In the latter part of this reign, they became cultured and put literature and art as a high priority.
Today that city is called Veliko Tarnovo and it is spread across three hills: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora. This hilly location gives this old capital a a unique look that adds to its beauty.
Tsarevets Fortress
On the top of Tsarevets hill, is one of the best features of the city. Built on the site of Thracian, Roman and Byzantine fortresses, Tsarevets Fortress gives you a fantastic glimpse into Bulgaria’s Second Empire. The original draw bridge is long gone, but in its place a cobblestone path with two old gates provides the perfect view of the fairytale castle above. The fall colours added even more beauty to the scene.
Thick stone walls still wrap around Tsarevets Hill letting us know how large the fortress used to be. In the Southeast corner is Baldwin’s Battle Tower which would have given full views of attackers coming up the valley.
The fortress was home to 22 Bulgarian kings. At its largest, the fortified city had a palace, a large patriarchal complex, 400 houses, about 20 churches and four monasteries. Unfortunately almost none of those buildings have survived. We were only able to find a few of their ruined walls below the hilltop church.
On the very top of the hill is The Patriarchal Church “Ascension of Christ” which is the building that gives the castle its fairytale like appearance. Built in the 11th century, the church served as the seat for the Bulgarian Patriarch until the 1300s. Its has a rounded chapel, domed roof and pointy bell tower.
From the outside the rebuilt church looks very authentic, similar to other medieval Orthodox churches we’ve seen. Inside however, is a different story. Modern artwork has completely ruined the authentic feel of the church. The paintings were done in the 1980s when the country was still communist and atheist. The paintings are supposed to represent Bulgaria’s struggles throughout history, but all we could make out were unusual Bible depictions.
Its hilltop location gives it one of the most picturesque locations for a castle that we’ve seen in a while. That is especially true at night when the castle is illuminated.
Entrance Fee -10 BGN ($5.50 USD) Opening Hours – 9am to 4 pm
Trapezitsa Fortress
Across from Tsarevets Hill is the second of the three hills with another historic fortress on its top. Trapezitsa Fortress though, is in much worse condition and we only admired it from a distance.
Asenov Quarter
Below the castle is the community called Asenov Quarter. It is the oldest part of city. Most of its houses and medieval churches, have been rebuilt so are historic in name only. From this area though we had a nice view of the castle above.
St. Demetrius Church
Across the stream in Asenov’s Quarter is an important large, stone church. St. Demetrius Church is where Ivan and Peter Asen announced their rebellion against the Byzantines in 1185. The result of that successful rebellion was the formation of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
Bulgarian Revival Architecture
During its time as capital, Veliko Tarnovo became an important trading city. It was very wealthy with merchants and traders arriving from across the country as well as internationally. Just over 200 years later however, the Ottoman captured the city and most of the historic buildings from that time were lost.
A few hundred years later, the city gained a new importance. It became a centre where rumblings of independence began to gain ground and was the site of two failed uprisings against the Ottoman rulers. Veliko Tarnovo was even appointed capital of the newly independent Bulgaria in the 19th century.
The resurgence in the Bulgarian spirit during the Ottoman reign resulted in the development of a uniquely Bulgarian style of home called Bulgarian Revival architecture. We stepped out of our guesthouse and were suddenly immersed in the 19th century. The city’s main street was our first view of the revival architecture in this pretty city and it makes a great first impression.
You can see a lot more of this style in our post Bulgarian Revival Architecture.
From the elegant buildings on main street you can walk up the hill or down toward the river to find less elegant, but equally charming heritage buildings. No matter which direction you chose you will be surrounded by Bulgarian Revival buildings.
Gurko Street
Running above Yantra River is Gurko Street. Its two hundred year old homes appear as rather plain two -story homes from street level, but they are actually 5 floors high. Since they were built on the riverbank only two stories can be seen from the street.
Sveta Gora
The third hill, Sveta Gora is on the other side of Yantra River. Near the river there is a large park with walking and biking trails. From the river bank we found the Monument to the Asen Dynasty commemorating their triumph over the Byzantines. Even better through was a the view of the Bulgarian revival homes on Gurko Street. From the this side of the river we could see their 5 stories.
Churches
Throughout Old Town there are more than just homes. There are also many rebuilt medieval churches. Most of the churches in the city were destroyed either by Ottoman forces or an earthquake in 1913. The most prominent, St Mary’s Nativity, looks impressive from many points in the city, but up close was quite plain. St. Nikolay Church is quite pretty with a beautiful entrance composed of painted wood.
Where to stay and eat in Veliko Tarnovo
Since most of the sites in the city’s historic district are within walking distance, you can stay in one of the many hotels or apartments in Old Town. Parking is difficult however, so if you have a car make sure a parking spot is included.
The main street also has many restaurants to choose from. After having a great traditional Bulgarian meal in Sofia, we made sure to visit our favourite Bulgarian Restaurant, Shtastliveca which has location in the historic centre.
How to get to Veliko Tarnovo
There is an international airport just outside of the city, but it is easy to reach by car or train from Sofia. The two or three freeways in the country are in excellent condition, but most smaller highways are in much worse shape, often riddled with potholes. To reach Veliko Tarnovo we drove through the mountains. Even though the mountains don’t look very high, the highways have many sharp corners and switchbacks as they climb up and down the mountain passes. Here’s a screenshot of our map showing the curvy road that was coming up.
Tip – There is not a lot of English spoken in Bulgaria and they use the Cyrillic Alphabet. It would be wise to have your destinations written in Cyrillic before leaving your hotel. Google Lens is very helpful to translate written material such as menus.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Veliko Tarnovo.
To read more of our adventures in Bulgaria click here.
Coming Next – Bulgarian Revival Architecture
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78 responses to “Veliko Tarnovo – Bulgaria’s Second Empire”
I love your photos from Bulgaria’s medieval capital—Veliko Tarnovo which is still an underrated tourist destination – and its Medieval fortress, an unbearably charming Old Town, and amazing views. I would love to visit the Medieval fortress of Tsarevets as it seems that once you get to the top, you can take a deep breath and enjoy one of the most beautiful views you would ever see! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
For a large city it has been able to retain the charm of its Old Town. Tsvaravets Castle looks as if it were put there for our enjoyment years later rather than the defensive structure it was. Thanks so much for your comment Aiva! Maggie
Thank you so much for this new article, which as always is interesting and so well documented. I liked it a lot
Thank you Luisa, glad you enjoyed Veliko Tarnovo! Maggie
As ever, you’re very welcome, dear Maggie 💙
I’m loving this Bulgaria 🇧🇬 series of posts.
Great!! We really didn’t know much about it, but we enjoyed it a lot! Maggie
Veliko Tarnovo appears to be a vibrant city that is tourist-friendly. The residential areas look welcoming and safe, too.
It is very safe, in fact all of Bugaria was safe. Veliko Tarnovo doesn’t even seem to be trying to be a tourist destination, maybe that adds to its appeal. 😊
Tsarevets Fortress looks so magical all lit up at night! It is easy to see why Veliko Tarnovo is considered the prettiest city, your photos are gorgeous. It looks so clean and charming too.
It is really charming and we were so happy to see the fortress at night. Thanks Lyssy!
Thanks for the vivid tour. What types of foods/meals are typical in Bulgaria?
They have a mix of foods. There are a lot from Turkey such as stuffed grape leaves, shishkabobs but the also a lot of hearty stews, soups and savory pasties. They use a lot of earthy, rich flavors, good for the cold winters. It was easier for me as a vegetarian to find veggie stews and soups.
Lovely to see Veliko Tarnovo! We stayed there for a week awaiting vet visits for our little rescue dog, Iskra. We were there in the summer, but it’s lovely to see the autumn colour on the fortress.
We were too nervous to walk in Sveta Gora because of the large number of stray dogs. One night, parked under the castle, we were surrounded by a pack of around 20, but I think having our own dogs probably attracted the strays. The vet told us, “Be very careful.” Did you struggle with stray dogs?
No, I can’t recall seeing any stray dogs at all. Maybe you’re right and it was because of your own dogs.
What a rich history! You can feel it when looking at your photos. I would love to visit here someday.
The history seeps out of the streets here. It’s a great city for lovers of history. Thanks Kymber 🙂 Maggie
This seems to be a city well worth exploring, one to consider if we go back to Bulgaria. I like the look of those houses by the river 🙂 It looks like the sort of place you could just enjoy wandering around to see what you might find!
You would love Veliko Tarnovo Sarah, it is very charming. The houses along the river are very interesting with a different view from both sides. Maggie
The Tsarevets Fortress is an amazing wall of protection. Veliko Tarnovo is beautiful! Many thanks for the tour of it’s historical streets and buildings. :).
It really is a pretty city with so much history around every corner. Thanks Nancy. Maggie
What a fascinating place, so much history but not played up for tourists. Tsarevets Fortress looks exactly like a fortress should, the night shots are beautiful.
That’s exactly right. It’s a great spot for visitors, but there are barely any tourists. At least not many international tourists. We really enjoyed it. Thanks Helen! Maggie
The rise and fall of an empire! These are very beautiful remnants, Maggie. Thanks for putting this place on my radar.
You’re welcome Jo! It’s a great city for history lovers, even if you’ve ever learned their history before 🙂 Maggie
You can see why it is considered the prettiest city. Wonderful pics.
Yes, exactly, it’s very photogenic! Thanks 🙂 Maggie
A very enjoyable piece and your photos of the old town illustrate it well. Tsarevets Fortress does look like it fell out of a fairy tale!
It really does, we were quite startled when we first saw it high above. Thanks Lynette 🙂 Maggie
Love the great wide angle/panorama views of the three areas. Tsarevets Fortress for example is fantastic with the sloping hillside and stone walls looks exactly like its historic footprint as Roman city/fortress.
The walls look very tall must have been quite the sight to see the original fortress wall, much less the effort it would have taken to build with that much stone. Amazing.
Asenov Quarter looks beautiful and modern almost like a resort area with the water and bridge.
Love the vibrant colors of the buildings in Veliko Tarnovo. The buildings are beautifully painted and look well maintains. So to are the churches. Nice to see that the churches have been restored and remodeled in all these areas.
I wonder if a guide is needed for travel in these areas, particularly in the Tsarevets Fortress?
Once again, thank you for taking us along on your rich historical journeys, Maggie. Safe travels.
Thanks Suzette, we thoroughly enjoyed exploring all of the parts of this pretty city. The fortress must have been an awesome sight when it was all standing. And when Trapezitsa Fortress on the next hill was more than ruins, would have really made it special. I’m sure a guide would help with some of the history, but I don’t think there were many around. It hasn’t quite hit the tourist radar outside of Bulgaria yet, but it should. 🙂 Maggie
Wonderful. I sure hope it will hit the tourist radar. It is beautiful! Thanks again, Maggie!
I’m enjoying your posts and photos of Bulgaria; I never knew it was so much to offer. Thanks Maggie!
Thanks, glad you’re enjoying it. We really didn’t know much about it either until we started to research. There’s a lot to see and the people are very welcoming. Maggie
It does indeed sound worthy of the title “prettiest city”. I say “sound” because wafty Brazilian wifi ha
only downloaded about a third of the photos. Very much sounds like a city we’d like to wander around.
Oh yes, I remember that wifi. Trust me it is 🙂 Maggie
I’d love to tell someone I saw a fortress today.
Yes, and a nice one too 🙂 Maggie
A wealth of information and experiences in your post, Maggie. I am travelling virtually with you and loving how enjoyable it is.
And I’m glad you’re coming along! We’re really happy to show the wonderful places we found in Bulgaria. Maggie
Thank you Maggie for always introducing us to such fascinating places like Tsarevets. Your photos and descriptions are awe-inspiring. I love your field trips! 🥰📸😊
Thanks Kym! Glad you’re coming along. We are happy to share the sites of this great country with you. 🙂 Maggie
Thanks Maggie and you are so very welcome. Keep ’em coming girlfriend. 🤗📸😎
[…] in the small cities in this area. It would also be possible to visit them all on day trips from Veliko Tarnovo. We found a nice guesthouse and good dinner in Veliki […]
Such a beautiful place indeed… and those Bulgarians sure know how to decorate a church!
Veliko Tarnovo is as advertised 🙂 Maggie
This was great read. I passed through the town on my return to England from Istanbul on a hitching trip when I was seventeen. I remember the view from the photo “General Gurko Street” However, I now see just how much of the history and beauty I missed. Such is youth, most of the time spent trying to find a cheap place to eat and sleep. I remember we slept on the floor of the railway station! Thanks for bringing back so many forgotten memories. Maybe one day I will be able to return!
Not so interesting to a 17 year old I doubt, but you would love it today. Glad to bring back good memories 🙂 Maggie
I also visited Veliko Tarnovo during my trip to Bulgaria, although the town is not well known outside the country. As with other Bulgarian historical sites, Veliko Tarnovo’s international reputation is small compared with its importance to Bulgarians. Indeed, after the liberation of the Ottoman Empire in 1878, the first national assembly met in Veliko Tarnovo, perhaps as a historical reflex. But later Sofia was chosen as the new capital. Maybe the rugged terrain was less suitable for the expansion of a modern city.
In your comment on my article, you mentioned the traditional little streets; you’ve given a good illustration of this theme yourself!
We really loved Veliko Tarnovo. It’s too bad the fortress doesn’t have much left to see, but the streets of Old Town are perfect.
Trapezitsa fortress is a fake as it was reimagined with EU money on top of the existing real ruins. It is presented as one of the cases where money produced fake monuments a la Violet le Duc that motivated an ICOMOS guide for quality in restorations. It was issued in 2018 in order for EU to have a tool for not funding Disney Lands but restorations of ruins according to relevant charters for architectural and archaeological heritage.
Yes, that’s one of the reasons we didn’t visit it.
In order to be more specific in my earlier comment: https://www.icomos.org/en/get-involved/inform-us/heritage-alert/current-alerts/3574-heritage-alert-bulgaria-large-scale-reconstructions-over-archaeological-sites
Wow, I can see why it’s called Bulgaria’s most beautiful place. It looks a perfect trip from Sofia and such an important place for Bulgarian history and culture
It is a very pretty city. It’s a large city, but feels quite small and pleasant to walk around. Thanks Hannah! Maggie
Such beautiful ancient buildings! I’ve heard about Veliko Tarnovo before, but I wasn’t aware of its beauty. The Communist-era artwork inside the Patriarchal Church, however, looks rather incongruous with the aesthetics of the structure.
The paintings on the church were shocking, and not what we had imagined in our fairytale style church at all 😉 From the castle on a hill to the clean, well restored downtown, Veliko Tarnovo is a very pretty city. You have heard of so many small, historical cities around the world Bama, it’s quite impressive! Maggie
I think it’s because of NatGeo, some random articles I found online, as well as the documentaries I watched on YouTube. The more I learn about places like those, the more I realize that the world is so big there’s no way I can see them all. That’s why I really appreciate your blog posts.
[…] The rest of the city outside of Old Town is quite run down, but it is worth a day trip from Veliko Tarnovo. […]
Love the views of and from the Tsarevets fortress. It looks even more impressive at night when it’s all illuminated.
It’s such a picture perfect spot for a medieval cemetery! Thanks Linda, Maggie
its a lovely little town and the citadel in super impressive – great shots you captured it so well and due to its size and nature that’s tricky!
Thanks Andy, we really enjoyed Veliko Tarnovo. You’re right it is difficult to capture the sheer size of the castle. Maggie
What a beautiful visual tour of this incredible city! 🙂
Thanks Meg, it’s a pretty city, glad we could share it with you. Maggie
I can see why it’s called a pretty city, and seems to be vibrant on the colorful busy streets. The castle, walls, and church up high are stunning, but I had to cringe at the modern artwork inside.
The artwork was shocking, and not in a nice way. The rest of the city though is very pretty, as advertised. 😊 Maggie
Surprising that the artwork must have been commissioned, in such an area that seems to revere its history.
Well I was during communism when religion wasn’t encouraged.
[…] You can read more about this pretty city in our post Veliko Tarnovo – Bulgaria’s Second Empire […]
That is a unique church. Love Gurko street! Do you, by chance, make it a goal to visit churches in your travels? Seems you share many of them. Not sure if you captured the photos or went there and used available ones, but nonetheless, they are so neat.
We actually don’t make it a point to visit them, but temples, churches, mosques etc all seem to be so important to these cultures that we visit that once we’re there we feel we should visit them. And also, they’re often the most beautiful of all of the buildings in the towns. We often don’t even go inside them because we’re not there for religious reasons. Good question though.
We are of the same mindset. We have seen so many churches that we are a lot more choosy about which ones to actually enter. You are so right that they usually the most beautiful buildings.
Now this city is totally what we seek out, with its history and incredible architecture. The inside of the Patriarchal Church looks like a scene from a science fiction movie. Another great post. How many nights did you stay in Veliko-Tarnovo?
>This is a great city. It has a bit of everything. We stayed 3 nights, but also stayed in a couple of the small towns around to visit the other places. I can send more info if you’re interested.
Oh that would be great! Not that we are going soon, but we will save the information for when we plan our trip. Thanks so much!
Oh, and I think you have our email?
I do😊