With every step we climbed a little higher, a little closer to the day’s goal. Finally, out of breath, we reached the mountain pass where we had an expansive view of the snowy peaks in Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes. This was going to be an incredible week.
The world-famous Huayhuash Circuit trek is 130 km long, crosses over 8 high altitude mountain passes and climbs to 4 viewpoints. There are a few variations that allow you to make the trek longer or shorter. We think 8 days is the perfect amount of time to see the best sites and not tire of the journey.
Since it’s a high altitude hike it is imperative that you are acclimatized before beginning. Anything above 2,400 m (8,000 ft) is considered high altitude and requires the body to acclimatize. This hike begins at 4,000 m (13,124 ft) and climbs to as high as 5,200 m (17,060 ft). Most people will do their acclimatization from the city of Huaraz. Located at 3,052 m (10,013 ft), it provides a good base to prepare for the hike.
From downtown Huaraz you can enjoy excellent views of the mountains in Cordillera Blanca. A few years ago we hiked around this mountain range. Our story is here. Peru’s highest mountain Nevado Huascarán (6,768 m/2,2204 ft) can be seen right from Plaza de Armas in Huaraz.
There are many day hikes near Huaraz that can get you to even higher elevations. It is recommended to spend a few days hiking in the area to acclimate. A walk up to the top of Cerro de Rataquenua helped us acclimitize and gave us a better view of the Cordillera Blanca.
Day 1 – Driving from Huaraz to Cuartelwain
It’s called an 8-day trek, but there are actually only 7 days of walking. The first day is spent driving to the first camp. The four-hour drive from the city of Huaraz allowed glimpses of the Andean range we’d spend the next week exploring.
There’s not a lot of time to acclimatize on this trek as the first campsite, Camp Cuartelwain, is already at 4,180 m (13,714 ft). It is located in a long valley bordered by grass covered hills that block your view of the giant peaks. We took a short walk to the top of one of the hills for a better look.
We were to spend the next 7 days trekking the circuit around Cordillera Huayhuash with 12 other trekkers from Ireland, UK, Australia, USA, France, Germany and Denmark. At first we thought this was too large a group for an enjoyable trip, but it turned out to be a great group of Gen Zs, Millennials … and us.
Day 2 – Camp Cuartelwain to Laguna Carhuacocha
Trekking Time – 6 hr, 5 min (plus breaks); Elevation Gain – 505 m (1,657 ft) & 450 m (1,476 ft); Elevation Loss – 485 m (1,590 ft) & 420 m (1,378 ft)
The first day of trekking doesn’t let you ease you into the trip. It begins with a steep climb up a narrow gully, made even tougher at an elevation over 4,000 m. Each step is harder and harder the higher you climb. You struggle to breathe and your heart is racing when you exercise at this elevation. And yet, you have to keep going.
A small ledge halfway up allowed us to look directly down on our first campsite far below while condors soared over head.
Pushing up yet another steep slope brought us to a narrow ridge and our first pass, Cacananpunta, at 4,686 m (15,375 ft). Apparently the Quechua people have a sense of humour as the name translates in English to shit pass. They’re not far off with the name as it was a pretty tough slog for the first day.
From the pass we looked down to the bright red coloured Laguna Pucacocha. Laguna translates to lake in English. From the pass we were supposed to be able to see mountains such as Rondoy and Ninashanch, but clouds prevented much of a view.
Not only did we start the trek with a steep, tough pass, but this first day of hiking has a second pass. The next one was a little more gentle at least. We left Cacananpunta and hiked across grassy hills, slowly losing elevation. Looking back we had a different view of Laguna Pucacocha and the tall peaks behind.
The trail passed a cross that commemorates a Polish explorer who died in Huayhuash. There weren’t many animals but we did see a few Andean Geese landing on a small pond and further on a pair of Andean Ibis.
Before beginning to climb back up to the next pass we had to cross a small farm. Our guide, Hector, opened the farm gate and looked around as we entered. No one else was there, and we didn’t know what Hector was looking for. As we walked across the paddock we saw a rancher in the distance. He was running as fast as he could across the fields toward us. It turns out there is a fee to cross his land and he didn’t want to miss out on the payment.
Punta Carhuac 4,650 m (15,255 ft) didn’t offer much of a view so we had no preview of the scene that lay ahead. After a little more walking though we reached a lookout where we had a view of the cloud covered Yerupajá Chico. Further on we saw how the gorgeous Laguna Carhuacocha provided the perfect base below this giant.
Our campsite, 4,230 m (13,878 ft), was set on a ridge above the lake offering unbelievable views right from camp. It poured soon after we arrived, but once the rain stopped, the skies began to change. At first the clouds were still angry and were swirling around Yerupajá.
As they began to lift we walked down to the lake shore and enjoyed the breathtaking scenery. With the lake in front, the snow-capped Yerupajá Chico, Yerupajá, Suila Grande and Jirishanca above, it was a magical spot. Somehow all of the hard work to get here was forgotten.
Day 3 – Laguna Carhuacocha to Huayhuash
Trekking Time – 6 hr, 22 min (plus breaks); Elevation Gain – 570 m (1,870 ft) & 50 m (164 ft); Elevation Loss 433 m (1,420 ft)
After the views we had at our campsite above the lake we didn’t think the scenery could get any better. The cloudy skies in the morning had us even less convinced that today would be a stellar day. The trail took us around the lake and then up a long wide valley with the mountain sides covered in long ichu grass and small bushes. In the distance we heard avalanches and within a few seconds could see them coming down over a rocky cliff.
When we reached the end of the valley, Hector suggested a short side trip to a viewpoint 60 m above. It was a steep climb but the scenery made us say ‘wow’ when we arrived. The avalanches we had heard before were now right in front of us. Yerapaja’s glacier was dramatically calving off into Laguna Qangrajanca. Icebergs were floating on the blue water. It was magical.
From the ridge we looked down to see Laguna Suila reflecting the nearby peaks off its clear, flat water. Looking up we had our first close look at Suila Grande and Yerupajá with Yerupajá Chico nearby. Three massive peaks in one view.
This was an incredible surprise, but the views weren’t done yet. We returned to the main trail and continued to climb toward Mirador Tres Lagunas (Viewpoint of Three Lakes). On the way we spotted a couple of cute vizcachas who were posing for pictures on a large rock. They look like small rabbits, but are a type of chinchilla.
A little higher up we arrived at the lookout and stood in awe as Lagunas Qangrajanca, Siula, and Quesillococha sat under the massive peaks of Siula Grande, Yerupajá and Yerupajá Chico. Even on a cloudy day these three glacial lakes were stunning below the magnificent white peaks of the Andes.
Another 350 or so meters of climbing on loose rock brought us to Suila Pass at 4,830 m (15,846 ft). The cloudy sky added more drama to the rocky scene.
From the pass it was a long walk down grassy slopes and over strange sponge-like plants. We passed cows grazing in pastures and could see small farmhouses in the distance. Finally we reached a few modest farm homes collected together on the plain that make up the community of Huayhuash, our next campsite (4,367 m/14,327 ft). One industrious local sold beer and pop as you approached. We bought Inca Kolas. The sweet drinks really hit the spot.
We decided to join a guided group for this hike because we didn’t bring any of our gear from Canada. Being on a guided trek means that your large backpacks are carried on a donkey. As well, the guiding company sets up camp and prepares all meals including snacks and tea. It was a really nice treat to arrive at camp and be treated to a tea and popcorn rather than having to set up our tent and cook dinner.
We spent each night in the dining tent with the rest of the trekkers. It was a lot of fun listening to stories of their crazy mishaps and adventures. As we got to know each other, more and more stories were shared. We’ll share some of the funnier stories that were told on coming posts.
That night in Huayhuash Camp, Hector warned us to keep all of our belongings inside our tents overnight as there are banditos in the area and thefts have occurred on other trips. This was certainly turning out to be different from our usual trekking trips.
Coming Next – Trekking in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash: Part 2
For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca
To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
If you like what you read, please comment or share (with credit) using the links below
Monkey's Tale 
You must be a pretty fit couple. I agree that the scenery is jaw dropping but I’d have to be airlifted there 🤣💟
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Haha it was a pretty tough trek. 😆 Maggie
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My friend did this trek a couple months ago, and she actually invited me to join her but unfortunately I wasn’t able to. I wish I had been; it looks absolutely incredible! Looking forward to part 2.
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Oh too bad Diana, you would have loved this trek! Definitely keep it in mind. Maggie
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Fabulous. Has Peru become a more popular hiking, and general tourism, destination in recent years?
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It’s our second time here and it was pretty popular on our last trip 15 years ago. It has amazing mountain scenery and is quite well organized so it’s a big draw for hiking.
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Most of your views almost looks like paintings – it’s just so striking. I also enjoyed the different photos of Laguna Palcacocha, as well as the views from your camping spot over the lake and those majestic mountains … wow, what a trail! Looking forward to read about the next couple of days!
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Thanks, yes the views were almost too good to believe, and they kept coming through the whole hike!!
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What a fantastic experience, Maggie! Your pictures are stunning. Thanks for sharing!!
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Thanks Jyothi! It is a beautiful area to photograph 😊Maggie
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Looks like an amazing trek though I am not certain I would have been able to do it. I found our 3 days trek difficult and it was at lower altitudes and much shorter than yours. The views of on your trek reminded me of some of the view on our trek but yours are even more amazing. It is good to do this trek through your photos. (Suzanne)
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Thanks Suzanne, yes this hike it quite long and high, but one of the most beautiful that we’ve ever done. Thanks for reading 😊 Maggie
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Stunning views. I am looking forward to the rest.
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Thank you, they keep coming 😊
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A beautiful part of the world with some serious elevation. I would not fare well, in fact my son ended up battling a bit of altitude sickness, despite being acclimatized. A trip of a lifetime for sure. Thanks for sharing Maggie. Allan
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It is the trip of a lifetime, such amazing scenery in Peru. Thanks for you comments Allan! Maggie
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You were in a totally different world. Thanks for the look at the beautifully alien landscape. The people that live there have adapted to the environment. The closest I’ll ever come to a trek like this was a two-day trek on the Annapurna Trail in Nepal. Kids in flip flops were zooming past me as I labored up seemingly never ending steps.😊
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Haha, yes it was something to see cows grazing at 4000 m! It is a completely different world. Maggie
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Stunning mountainscape and pictures! Seems like you are in Peru for more than just a short visit.
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No we left soon after thus hike. We’re in Bolivia now but way behind on posts!
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Sounds like some long bus rides
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Yes very long. The buses in Peru are quite nice, but once they retire them I think they’re sent to Bolivia!
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Enjoy, and blog posts can wait. You certainly have plenty of other things to do/places to visit.
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¿HASTA CUANDO…?
PROXIMA HUELGA INDEFINIDA POR LA CENSURA EN WORDPRESS
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Magnificent, but don’t know how you managed. I was out of breath climbing at 2 000 metres in Ecuador!
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Ha ha yes it was a difficult one. 😊
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Stunning scenes! I’d love to do this trek when we next get back to Peru.
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It is so beautiful Anna, you should look into doing it!. There are lots of guiding companies in Huaraz that do it. Maggie
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It’s a great trek and following you step by step is thrilling. I am also impressed by the farmers who live at such high altitudes, what a life it must be.
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It must be tough, it’s very cold at night with strong winds. It would be a tough life, for the cows as well 😊
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Fantastic photos. Love the building that look like they’ve always been there and the vizcacha!
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I think the farmers have been there for generations, hardy folk. The vizcacha was soo cute! Thanks for commenting Rebecca! Maggie
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awesome vistas
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Thanks Sai!!
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I just want to pack my bags and travel to Peru straight away. The landscape is unbelievable and the lakes are stunning. What a reward for all the difficulty you endured, the altitude itself being so challenging. I particularly love the spongy things, they look like they might come alive if you were to step on them.
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The trail goes right across the spongy plants! At first I didn’t think they’d hold me but they’re pretty sturdy. Peru should be high on your list Leighton, the scenery is stunning! Maggie
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Each of your new posts is an adventure surpassing past treks. I wonder how you manage to do all of these treks. Any one of these would qualify as once in a lifetime milestones for most folks. Anyway, all of your work and acclimatizing paid off with breathtaking scenery and comradery.
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It definitely did pay off. I won’t lie this was anhard trek. We weren’t as fit as usual and didn’t take long enough to acclimate but we enjoyed it despite the suffering 😊 Maggie
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Sounds like a challenging, yet scenic multi-day hike. The landscape looks incredibly beautiful. I hope all those Millennials and Gen Zers were able to keep up! Good think you arrived at your first campsite before the rain and how lovely to be treated with clear skies (and views) afterwards. I’ve never seen a vizcachas before, but it looks so cute!
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I had never seen one either and didn’t know what they’d look like. The guide said we may see some but I was thinking a marmot. This is on the list for the prettiest hikes ever done. Maggie
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Fabulous, fabulous scenery. Wonderful photographs. You’ve done some amazing treks but surely this one provided some of the most amazing scenery even you have witnessed? Peru is a must to add to our experiences.
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It did indeed and we had awesome views everyday! Peru is a great country to visit, keep it on the list 😊
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Wow, those mountains are just stunning! What an incredible journey to follow along with you today!
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Thank you!! It is one of the most beautiful treks we’ve done 😊 Maggie
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WOW! What an amazing hike. The landscape is just so dramatic and so stunningly beautiful. You make my efforts look very paltry! 🙂 Thanks for the inspiration, Mel
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Brings back memories of our time there. In Peru.loved hiking around this area.
And great images.
Anita
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The reflections in those lakes are certainly wows!! Funny how sidetrips whether outdoors or in a city can provide us with some of the best moments and memories to take back home! Also love the photo of the Ichu Grass with the droplets…gorgeous 🙂
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Of course you would go hiking to some really high mountains. 😄 I’m really glad I follow your blog because through your posts I can often travel vicariously to places I would otherwise not even think of visiting.
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😅 For these views you could do the hike!!
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Oh my goodness, WOW. The views out over Laguna Carhuacocha are just stunning. I could never do this hike, but it looks so amazing and thank you for sharing it with us 🙂
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The scenery really is that stunning! Thanks for reading Hannah, Maggie
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You know what I love about the longest mountain range in the world? That you get an amazing variety no matter if it’s the Canadian Rockies, the Rockies, Central America or the Andes! I haven’t been south of Mexico, but having the Canadian Rockies and the Rockies in my blood, I have this need to fulfill of exploring the longest mountain range in the world!
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The pictures are gorgeous. Yes, it can be hit or miss on a group tour, but it sounds like you fared well. Looking forward to those stories.
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Yes, luckily they were a great group, it can make such a difference on a trip can’t it. I hope the stories live up to the hype 🙂 Maggie
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Thanks for sharing this one. The Andes are so spectacular. We did a similar guided group, small enough but with horses and later, where the horses couldn’t go, locals to carry packs (5 days over Salcantay trail to Machu Picchu), and they cooked meals and set up the tents. Loved reading about this one and savoring the photos.
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Thanks Ruth, we haven’t done the Salcantay trail but heard it’s a good one. There’s always another hike to add to our list 🙂 Maggie
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Fantastic! Our guide for the Inca Trail hike also leads for this trek, and we have toyed with the idea ever since we were last in Peru. I should say I’ve toyed with it; my husband suffers above 11,000-ish feet, so this might have to go on my solo (part of a group, though) list! The terrain is so cool, and I’m glad you had a good group. Fourteen is big enough to ignore any really annoying types and small enough to get to know the nice people!
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It is one of the most beautiful hikes we’ve done so definitely keep it in your thoughts. We really lucked out with our group, we’ve had a few disasters that really spoil the trip, especially 8 days 🙂 Maggie
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Looking at those elevations took my breath away just sitting here on my couch. I’ve heard that part of Peru is spectacular and your photos prove it. I’ll have to add it to the list. Thanks for the great photos and well-written story.
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It’s one of the best treks for scenery, but it makes you work for it 🙂 Thanks for reading Jeff, Maggie
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Wow, what a trek and what an opportunity to experience the Andes at their most peaceful and picturesque. What can be better than sheer mountain peaks, pristine glacial lakes, an unspoiled environment and encounters with traditional Andean culture if you are an outdoor enthusiast?
Looking at your beautiful photos, it is pretty clear, that this trek is difficult and sometimes dangerous, so the full trek should be attempted only by experienced hikers. Thanks for sharing. I hope all is well 🙂 Aiva xx
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The route that we took is a bit more serious but you can find easier, shorter routes. Of course you miss out on the best views though. Maggie
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Peru is really epic in terms of trekking isn’t it? Im so impressed that people are fit enough to do long treks at high altitude like this! Amazing job!
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Thanks Andy, some of the best trekking in the world are in Peru!
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I think I saw part of this Cordillera as I was flying into Lima a while back. I have a list of ‘to-go’ places on my fridge and already two (Ladakh, southern Patagonia) are there thanks to you… Now a third might go up there too!
Fabrizio
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Haha! Well I hate to tell you but this is one of the best hikes we’ve ever done! It’s hard with long days, but there’s is at least one amazing view everyday! …Sorry 😊 Maggie
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On behalf of my credit card, ‘NOOOOO!’ 😀
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