Monkey's Tale

Argentina’s Glacier National Park is home to some of the world’s most scenic hiking trails. One of our favourites is Laguna Torre Trail to Cerro Torre because it packs more jaw-dropping scenes per step than almost any hike in the world. Fantastical stories of its first ascent, combined with its refined beauty, make Cerro Torre one of the most famous climbing peaks in the mountaineering world. Having visited it many years ago, we were very excited to stand before Cerro Torre once again. We created this hiking guide to help you enjoy this hike as much as we do.

Glacier National Park (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares) is home to both Cerro Torre and Monte Fitz Roy. It is one of the few places in the world that we have visited more than once and were blown away by the scenery, as much on the second trip as the first.

Our first trip was over 20 years ago, and while the mountains haven’t changed, a few other things have. Mostly, the number of people has increased significantly. The other change is the addition of new trails, so on this trip, we were able to both revisit our old hikes and discover new territory. First, we’ll go to the unparalleled Cerro Torre. You can read about the many trails tviews of Monte Fitz Roy in our post Hiking Guide to Monte Fitz Roy.

Laguna Torre Trail to Cerro Torre

Distance – 18 km (5½ miles) return; Elevation Gain – 403 m (1,320ft), Maximum Elevation – 610m (2,000ft)
Access – The trailhead is on the western edge of the village.

Located in Argentina’s Glacier National Park, the trail to Cerro Torre is named for the small glacier lake at its base, Laguna Torre. Remarkably, this beautiful site is only a short walk away from the mountain village, El Chaltén. In fact, all of the most famous mountains in this park are on the town’s doorstep.

The Laguna Torre Trail (Sendero Laguna Torre) quickly climbs the benches above town, passing wind-blown lenga trees and tuft grass. Eventually, you are above Fitz Roy River, bordered by tall walls. Not far away, Margarita Waterfall Viewpoint lets you look down upon the three-tiered waterfall.

After leaving the waterfall viewpoint, the mountain views become more dramatic as Cerro Solo and the Fitz Roy Massif start to show themselves. We could see Poincenot’s exposed wall, but the main Fitz Roy peak was hiding behind clouds.

Cero Torre Viewpoint

Not long after leaving the waterfall, prepare to be stunned by the panorama from Mirador Cerro Torre. We had a cloudy view of Cerro Torre and Aguja Poincenot, but unfortunately, Fitz Roy would not emerge from behind a wall of clouds. Twenty years ago, we couldn’t see any of these mountains from this viewpoint, so we felt more fortunate on this trip.

We came back to this same spot late in the afternoon on the next day and were rewarded with a view of the entire range. It seemed as if the landscape was formed just to show off these spectacular granite towers.

Since Cerro Torre and Monte Fitz Roy are so close to one another, it is easy to compare them. To us, Monte Fitz Roy is majestic and commands your attention, while Cerro Torre is more elegant and refined. The latter is considered one of the three most beautiful mountains in the world, along with Alpamayo in Peru and Ama Dablam in Nepal.

Some people only hike to the Mirador, and given this view, it is a great option for a short hike. We actually hiked to it more than once on this last trip. Distance to Mirador Cerro Torre – 3.5 km (2¼ mi); Elevation Gain – 250 m (820ft).

The best views, though, are further ahead, so let’s keep moving. After the viewpoint, the trail drops down into an open plateau filled with low bushes, giving you an almost constant view of Cerro Torre’s snowy top. The summit has an interesting feature. Because it is covered with a large cushion of rime, it is often called an ice mushroom. The rime builds up when supercooled cloud droplets are blown onto the rock and rapidly freeze.  Annual weather conditions affect both how much it builds up and the degree it collapses. Therefore, the size, shape and consistency of the mushroom top vary year to year.

In some years, mountaineers say it is like climbing on cotton baton, while in other years, it is much firmer. There seemed to be a lot less snow on it than when we saw it 20 years ago, but the entire mountain was blasted with rime that year.

Cerro Torre’s Climbing History

There are many climbing stories about Cerro Torre, but the first ascent is probably the strangest. In 1959, Italian climber Cesare Maestri claimed to have summited the seemingly unclimbable Cerro Torre. As Maestri recounts his story, he claimed that he and his climbing partner, Austrian Toni Egger, summited via the north-east ridge. Unfortunately, on the descent, Egger was killed in an avalanche. Since their camera was lost with Egger, there was no proof other than Maestri’s word. Most people didn’t believe that they had done what no other climber could, and the climb was immediately shrouded in controversy.

After many years and numerous attempts, no other climbers were able to reach its summit. In 1970, Maestri returned to Cerro Torre and the Italian took the climb to unthinkable extremes. He and a large team of climbers brought an air compressor and drilled hundreds of bolts into the rock for protection. As well, they dragged a large metal cage up the mountain to sleep in as a bivy. This time, they were attempting a different route on the south-east side. Using thousands of metres of fixed ropes, the team managed to get almost to the top, stopping just below the famous ice mushroom summit. Maestri said the snow cap was not really part of the mountain, so he claimed this as his second summit. On the descent, he chopped off the top few bolts to ensure no one could follow his route.

Since then, mountaineering tools and skills have improved dramatically, and Cerro Torre has been successfully climbed. A lot of research has gone into determining if, in fact, he could have summited in 1959. Climbers read his description of the route and retraced his steps. They concluded that Maestri and Egger did not summit in 1959, but rather dreamed up a remarkable story.

Torre Egger was named in honour of Toni Egger, and is the second-highest tower in the picture below.

Two kilometres (1¼ mi) from the Mirador, the trail splits in two. The main trail goes to Laguna Torre, the other to Lagunas Madre and Hijo (Mother & Daughter Lakes). We’ll show you the views from Lagunas Madre and Hijo in the next post. You can reach Campground Poincenot from it, or if you are very energetic, all the way to Laguna de los Tres, but that would be a very long day.

Near the seven km (4.3 mi) mark on the main trail, it splits again. The left goes to Laguna Torre and Agostini Campground. The right trail takes you to the Laguna via Campground Prestadores. You can do them as a circuit, which is what we did, first going toward Agostini and returning on the other. We recommend this option because you look toward Cerro Torre for most of the walk. The other way spends more time in the trees with fewer views.

Don’t let Cerro Torre’s beauty completely distract you because there are other things to see. As you approach the moraine, the rocky walls and glaciers of the Adela Range come into view.

The trail winds its way through the moraine to reach the edge of Laguna Torre. When the mountain is feeling generous, it will treat you to an unbelievable view, but unfortunately, it wasn’t cooperating with us. Instead, the wind was howling, clouds were swirling, and Cerro Torre was hiding. We found shelter behind a few boulders to wait it out, hoping it would show itself to us. We knew it was possible since the situation was similar on our previous visit.

We waited patiently for over an hour, but it stayed hidden behind a wall of churning clouds. While we waited, we spent our time looking for features in the wild clouds, but this activity soon got old.

The first two pictures below are from our 2026 visit and show how the clouds were boiling. The third picture is from 2003, when the mountain came out from the clouds for a few minutes. It remains one of our favourite pictures.

Eventually, we decided to leave, knowing we must be satisfied with the views we had from a distance. The next day, however, we woke to the most beautiful blue sky, so we returned to the lake. Our reward was a breathtaking scene. The elegant Cerro Torre gave us a full view of its sheer walls and striking towers, below a cloudless blue sky. We know from firsthand experience how rare this is. On this visit, we were there later in the afternoon, so the peak was in the shade, but it was still worth returning.

The moraine is a hostile place, with ferocious winds and little soil, so as we waited, we were surprised to be entertained by both birds of prey and delicate plants.

As well as the change in the summit’s ice mushroom, we noticed that most of the glacier has retreated. Instead of touching the lake, a large moraine now sits between the water and the ice. The image comparison below shows the glacier in 2003 on the left, and 2026 on the right. 

If you’re not ready to leave yet, you can go to Mirador Maestri. It is a 2 km out-and-back trail on the moriane ridge named for the climber.

Prestadores Campground Trail

From the lake, you can return on the same trail or walk out on the Prestadores Campground Trail. It begins at the end of the moraine ridge and drops down into the forest. It’s a nice walk that takes you between coihue and lenga trees as well as several types of colourful Patagonian flowers.

Not far from town, there is one last surprise, a lovely view of El Chaltén below a wall of sheer cliffs.

Since the trailhead is on the edge of town, it is very easy to do this on a day trip, although there are a few campsites on the way if you want to extend your time there. It’s so close, in fact, that we did this hike more than once on this recent trip.

El Chaltén

Located at the foot of Glacier National Park, the village of El Chaltén provides the best access to many great hikes. The village has grown dramatically since we last visited. We actually didn’t recognize anything from the village on this recent trip. Today, it seems its sole purpose is to provide services for the tourism industry. In 2001, the population was 371; today it is around 3,000, so it’s no wonder we noticed a difference. 

There is quite a lot of green space in the village that showcases local artists. In one, there is a white headscarf as a tribute to the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo. We saw similar monuments in Buenos Aires, San Martin de los Andes, and Córdoba.

The mountain village has a picture-perfect setting with the famous peaks on one side and vertical cliffs on the other. Known to have very fickle weather, most feel lucky if they get even a glimpse of the mountains above. Based on our last trip, we didn’t expect to see them from town at all. We couldn’t believe our eyes when, at the end of the day, the famous mountains could be clearly seen from the village. Even our guesthouse owner texted to say that we were lucky to have such a beautiful day. It was an incredible ending to our second stay in El Chaltén.

Where to stay and eat in El Chaltén

The village is very small, so where you stay will depend on your budget rather than location. Accommodation ranges from hostels and apartments to resort-style hotels. It is very expensive, but unless you plan to camp, it is your only option for hiking to these magnificent peaks. Plan to spend a lot more for less quality.

The main street, San Martin, is lined from one end to the other with restaurants, pubs, and cafes. But, as with the hotels, prices are a little higher than in other parts of the country. Many visitors stay in apartments so they can make their own meals to help with the costs.

How to get to El Chaltén

The most common way to arrive is by flying into El Calafate, but the airport is an 1½ hour drive from El Chaltén. Flights arrive in Calafate from all over Argentina, including Ushuaia, Bariloche, Mendoza and Buenos Aires. Several shuttles leave from downtown El Calafate and the airport several times a day. There are also Remises (long-distance taxis), and if you have 4 people, it is the same price per person as the bus.

It is also possible to take a bus from Bariloche (27 hours) and Puerto Natales, Chile (6 hours) to El Calafate.

El Chalten is the most southerly marker on the map below. It is an interactive map, so you can zoom-in, or click on a marker to find a link to our post from that region.

The drive to El Chaltén

The drive from El Calafate follows Route 40, the same highway as the Seven Lakes Route between Bariloche and San Martin de los Andes. At first, the drive travels through barren rolling hills, where only shrubs and grass can grow, and reminded us of the Badlands in southern Alberta. This vegetation is a favourite food for guanacos, so keep your eyes peeled for them.

Most drivers stop at Parador La Leona on the side of La Leona River for an empanada and coffee. It feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, but the service is quick, and the snacks are delicious.

The final approach to El Chaltén is where the landscape gets interesting. Once you reach the entry gates to Glacier National Park, the rolling hills transform in a dramatic way to suddenly rise as glaciated mountains. On clear days, the peaks of Fitz Roy Massif can often be seen from the highway. For us, they were wrapped in a thick cloud, but we could still admire the other rugged crags in the park.

Tips for visiting Glacier National Park

• Park Passes – You must purchase a park pass to hike in Glacier National Park (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares). You can purchase day passes at the park office in El Chaltén or El Calafate. Multi-day passes can only be purchased online here. Perito Moreno Glacier is included on the same pass, so buy enough days to include it if you plan to visit. Multi-day passes are valid for 6 months.
• Weather – The weather is very unpredictable in the mountain park. Typically, the best weather is during Austral summer (December to February). It will be warm, but it is usually very windy and cloud-covered. Forecasts are not very accurate, and conditions vary throughout the park; therefore, plan to be flexible with your activities. Having a few extra days to wait out the bad weather will make your visit more enjoyable.
• Clothing – It is very windy, which makes it chilly, even in the middle of the summer, so bring warm, waterproof and windproof clothes. There are many mountain equipment stores in El Chaltén if you didn’t bring enough. Good hiking shoes are recommended, as are trekking poles.
• Money – Many places in El Chaltén only accept cash and, as with most of Argentina, if they take credit cards, there is a very high surcharge. There are only 2 ATMs and one Western Union, and apparently, they often do not have much cash, so bring enough with you.
• Accommodations – The park is very busy and expensive compared to other parts of Argentina, especially during the summer months, so book your accommodations, including campsites, early. There are quite a few apartments for rent that allow you to save money by preparing meals. For hotels, expect to pay more for a lot less luxury.
• Trails – The hiking trails are in excellent condition and are well marked. There are strong reminders everywhere not to stray from the trail.

We have done other hikes in both Argentina and Chile. You can find all of our hikes under Trek-Bike-Ski, or go directly to Argentina’s Refugio Frey and Cerro Llao Llao, Monte Fitz Roy, Iruya and Aconcagua. And Chile’s Torres del Paine Base and O Circuit.

Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Argentina.

To read more of our adventures in Argentina, click here.

Coming Next – Trekking Guide to Monte Fitz Roy

For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca.

To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.

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