Considered one of the most beautiful treks on earth, trekking to K2 Base Camp has been a dream of ours for a long time. We had read stories of the beautiful peaks of Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountain Range and we wanted to see it first hand. The peak we really wanted to set our eyes on is the tallest of them all. Unlike Everest which keeps itself hidden behind other Himalayan peaks, K2 stands alone at the end of a wide valley. Usually shrouded in cloud, the big question was, would K2, the world’s second highest peak, show itself to us?
Our journey began by flying from Islamabad to the mountain city of Skardu; taking us from Pakistan’s flat lands to the high Himalayas. We were hoping to see Nanga Parbat, the 9th highest mountain in the world, from the plane. Unfortunately, the skies were so cloudy we couldn’t see any mountains, never mind this massive one.
When we landed in Skardu Airport, we could finally see some of Pakistan’s famous Karakoram Range. It finally felt like our dream was coming true.
The armed soldiers on the tarmac though, put everyone a little on edge. Skardu, was our entry point into Gilgit–Baltistan; an autonomous region in Pakistan. It is a disputed region between India and Pakistan and part of the reason for the many soldiers at the airport.
Because it is a disputed region and because it shares borders with India and China, tourists are required to have a guide and a permit to enter the region. Therefore, we joined a guided trip with 9 other hikers whom we met in Islamabad and then flew with to Skardu.
For some reason we had in our minds that Skardu would be a cute mountain city with clean streets and lovely views. It has so much potential to be idyllic with its position on the edge of the Indus and Shigar Rivers. Some of the first views we had were gorgeous. Ribbons of clouds wrapped around the arid mountains above the large river.
Unfortunately, it is quite a scruffy town and offers no reason to visit other than as a base to explore the surrounding mountain ranges. Skardu is busy, noisy and the streets are strewn with garbage. Our short walks through town brought many stares from the locals. This was surprising because Skardu is used as a base by a lot of different trekking groups at the beginning and end of their trips. We were glad when after 2 nights, we could leave the rough town.
Getting to the starting point of the K2 Base Camp trek involves a harrowing drive from Skardu to Askoli. The 130 km drive took a grueling 6 ½ hours. It began quite enjoyable on a paved road following the Indus and Shigar Rivers. After approximately 50 km though, the pavement became less and less frequent and eventually we were on a bumpy gravel, mountain road, following the Braldo River.
We passed small villages with traditional stone and mud brick walls and flat sod roofs. Some local people were working in their fields of barley, wheat or corn. Others were tending to their cows, sheep or goats. All around us were the tall mountains of the Karakoram Range.
Our 4WD bounced its way along the pot-holed road, slowly navigating its way up the Braldo River Valley. The weather was still poor, but the clouds were forming interesting shapes as they swished and swirled, low in the valley.
It rained off and on for most of our drive. We hoped this wasn’t an indication of things to come.
Many creeks came running down the mountains to empty into the large Braldo River, crossing our path on their way. They added yet another obstacle to the already difficult road. Most of the creeks were fast moving and quite deep, but our 4WD was able to cross them. As paying customers, we were all seated in reasonably comfortable 4WDs but the reality of the difference between the 1st and 3rd worlds became very clear when we saw our porters’ ride. They had to stand, squished into the bed of a truck for the long, bumpy ride in the rain.
In addition to driving through streams, the road traversed back and forth across the Braldo River on suspension bridges. We have walked across several of these types of bridges before, but it was a much different feeling to see the bridge’s planks form a wave as the 4WD rolled over them.
Click on the 20 second video below to see the bridge make ripples as the 4WD crosses. If you play it with the volume on you can hear the song we listened to for most of our long drive.
At one point we had to get out of the truck and cross a side-stream on foot. Only one week earlier a mudslide roared down the mountain, taking out the bridge. All of the gear, food and supplies that filled the trucks had to be carried to the other side by hand. We quickly saw how strong our porters were and how they are used to carrying large loads.
New 4WDs were waiting for us on the other side to take us the final hour to our destination, the village of Askoli. Most of the drivers expect to be tipped. We had given a tip to our first driver who drove us the 5 ½ hours to reach this point. The driver of this second, much shorter ride was not taking the chance that we wouldn’t tip him and yelled ‘Tips!’ before even turning off his truck.
Just before reaching this wash out section we had the most dangerous section of road we have ever experienced. Switchbacks were so tight that our jeep’s front tire was almost driving off the road on one side, while the rear end scraped the mountain wall on the other. Adding to the danger was that during these turns we were on at least a 12% grade and our driver still had to negotiate the potholes. As passengers with no control, we were sweating in our seats.
The rugged village of Askoli (3,000 m/ 9,843 ft) is in a very remote part of Pakistan. People live in extremely tough conditions. Dirt lanes crisscross the mountain slopes, connecting the rows of rustic stone houses. In their yards are stables with sod roofs that house small cows, goats and sheep. Stacks of wood are piled on the roofs; already getting ready for the upcoming winter. Between the houses is an old wooden mosque with a lot of character.
A large canal runs through the centre of the village. Smaller ones higher up the mountains collect water from the surrounding peaks and channel it to the main one. As we walked by the canal we saw groups of women doing laundry. Others were collecting water in buckets to take to their homes. The irrigation canal is similar to the ones we saw in Tajikistan.
Children from the village followed us as we walked though the town, asking for biscuits or sweets. We had nothing to give them, but we felt bad because we could see what a difficult life they have.
From the pastures above Askoli are wonderful views up and down the picturesque valley. The rain we experienced on the drive had ended and left behind a stunning scene. We watched as the clouds swirled about, embracing the high mountains.
Day 1 – Askoli to Jhola
Distance – 16 km (9.9 miles); Trekking Time – 4 hours
Elevation Gain – 358 m (1,175 ft); Elevation Loss – 248 m(814 m); Absolute Elevation Gain – 165 m (542 ft)
Elevation at Jhola – 3,165 m (10,384 ft)
Finally, the day had arrived to begin trekking. As we left Askoli we realized it would be the last village we would see for the next 14 days. Our group included 9 other hikers, 2 guides, 40 porters, 15 mules, 4 chickens and sadly, 1 goat for the two-week adventure. Even though it was just a hike and not a mountaineering expedition, the amount of manpower, food and equipment required was staggering.
Note: Askoli is also spelled Askole
On the first day, the trail is mostly flat and follows a road up the Braldo Valley. Until recently, 4WDs used to drive trekkers all the way to Jhola. It was nicer to walk than sit in a bumpy jeep though, so we didn’t mind.
Driving this section of the road is now prohibited, likely because of ongoing road works. We saw army personnel working on the road’s construction. In one area they were blasting away the sides of a cliff. At one point we were only a few minutes past them when we heard an explosion. We spoke with some army construction workers who told us they were extending the road all the way to Paiju. The distance from Askoli to Paiju is two full days of walking so it would decrease the trekking distance by two days once completed.
The Braldo River Valley is edged by the steep, brown mountains. This combined with the cloudy sky made the landscape look a little dreary. The higher we walked, the fewer trees we saw, making the views even more brown. Occasionally though, we could see tall, snow-capped peaks in the distance, letting us know the scenery would change.
The day was a mix of clouds and sun. When the sun was out it very hot, making the trekking more difficult. It was remarkable that it could be so hot at 3,000 m elevation. But at least it wasn’t raining.
After spending so long walking under the brown peaks, we were surprised when we came to Korophon. The trees and grass in this meadow provided a welcome touch of green in the arid valley. The timing was perfect too as it was lunchtime and our lunch was set up in the green meadow.
After lunch we were back in the brown river valley. Arid mountains were on our sides and white peaks would poke out ahead letting us know they were there. Eventually we could see the colourful tents of Jhola Camp in the distance. In the first picture below you can just make out the tents set up on a flat area beside the river. From camp we could see a little further down the valley, offering a preview of the incredible views we’d have the next day.
We had just settled down in our tents to rest before dinner when seemingly out of nowhere a huge storm blew in. Our tent walls flapped violently in the strong winds. A couple of other hikers in our group were in the dining tent when it hit. They had to push with all their strength to keep the walls of the large tent from collapsing. Then the rains began. We were trapped inside our little tent in the middle of a torrential downpour. It was a good test for our brand new tents that the guiding company provided. It was not however, a good sign for the upcoming days.
Day 2 – Jhola to Paiju
Distance – 9 km (5.6 miles); Trekking Time – 6 hours
Elevation Gain – 457 m (1,499 ft); Elevation Loss – 235 m (771 ft); Absolute Elevation Gain – 211 m (692 ft)
Elevation at Paiju – 3,376 m (11,076 ft)
The next morning began with clouds hanging very low, but they came and went throughout the day. Sometimes it looked like rain, at others it was sunny. It was as if the weather was unsure of what to do.
The trail climbed up and then down the river bank repeatedly as it made its way up the valley. At times we walked very close to the edge of the fast moving river. The trail was a mix of sand and dirt, but in many sections it was also covered in river rocks that made walking much more tedious.
There were quite a few creek crossings in today’s section. When we were there in July, we could mostly hop over the creeks on large rocks. Earlier in the season though, some of these crossing may be much deeper requiring you to take off your hiking boots. At one crossing there was a make shift bridge. In this remote place you can’t expect a stable bridge, but this one was very unsteady and was missing most of its cross beams.
Our sightings of high mountains became more and more frequent. When we asked the names of some of the mountains our guides told us that they’re too small, they don’t have names. But there were likely 4-5,000 m high! Much higher than the mountains we see in the Canadian Rockies, most of which have names.
Not long before lunch, the valley took a sharp turn and exposed a view that had been hiding. Standing in front of us was the most beautiful scene yet. We couldn’t take our eyes off the layers of perfect triangles made from shear, granite walls that filled in the valley. They were just a hint of what’s to come as these mountains are a part of the famous Trango Group.
The final approach to camp climbs high above the river on a deceivingly steep trail with a sharp drop off. We often had to cling to the sheer mountain wall as mules passed by, carrying large loads.
Our campsite, Paiju, was set on a series of terraces above the river. Looking down the valley we had unbelievable views toward the gorgeous Cathedral and Castle Peaks of the Trango Group. It was hard to believe that so much beauty could be contained in one valley.
Because Paiju is located at 3,300 m, we were supposed to spend a rest day here to help acclimatise. Our guides told us however, that the weather forecast indicated it would be better to continue moving up the valley, instead of wasting a day in Paiju. Not everyone in our group was pleased, but it didn’t bother us. We were already acclimated having spent time above 4,000 m in Tajikistan the week before. The new plan was to continue our trek toward Baltoro Glacier tomorrow.
Day 3 – Paiju to Khoburtse
Distance – 13.2 km (8.2 miles); Trekking Time – 5 ¾ hours
Elevation Gain – 569 m (1,867ft); Elevation Loss – 118 m (387ft); Absolute Elevation Gain – 454m (1,490ft)
Elevation at Khoburtse – 3,830 m (12,566ft)
The trail today would have us leave solid ground and step on to Baltoro Glacier. We couldn’t see the glacier from our camp and our first view of it was startling. On the toe of the glacier is an enormous ice cliff that showed us how thick it is. To give you perspective, in the last picture below you can just make out trekkers on its top.
After scaling up beside the ice cliff, the trail spent most of the day climbing up and down the hilly moraine and boulder fields. It was a tough day on your feet walking over the uneven rocks. It was all worth it though because we were walking closer and closer to Trango’s picturesque Castle and Cathedral Peaks.
Finally, we reached a point where we could see Trango Tower (6,239 m/20,469 ft). The entire massif is sometimes collectively called Trango Towers or Trango Group, but this one tall, granite pinnacle is usually referred to as Trango Tower. The west face of this solitary pinnacle stands on the side of Trango’s Main Peak. With shear granite walls 1,340 m (4,396 ft) high, it is considered the tallest vertical rockface in the world and is a famous climbing objective. We have read numerous stories of this pinnacle so to see it in person was overwhelming. As we walked further up the glacier, more and more of it showed itself to us.
We stopped for lunch at a gorgeous flat spot called Liligo. It’s a plateau above the glacier that provided us with a spectacular view of Trango’s Castle Peak. From here we could begin to see its fortress like top that gave the peak its name.
After lunch, we continued to make our way up the undulating sheet of ice, heading further up the valley. The views of Castle and Cathedral Peaks kept getting better and better.
Just before camp the trail brought us by a large glacial lake. The ground around it was covered in a fine sand. It was such a joy for our feet to have a soft surface instead of balancing on the boulders and rocks of the rugged glacier.
Finally we arrived at Camp Khoburtse. Similar to our lunch spot, our camp was set up on a terrace right across from the Trango Group. Through our tent door we could see the stunning Cathedral Peak (5,753 m/18,875 ft) as well as its neighbour, Uli Biaho Tower (6,109 m/20,043 ft). It is one of the most beautiful campsites we have ever had.
Day 4 – Khorburtse to Urdukas
Distance – 6.4 km; Trekking Time – 2 hour 50 minutes
Elevation Gain – 416 m (1,365 ft); Elevation Loss – 179m (587 ft); Absolute Elevation Gain – 241 m (791 ft)
Elevation at Urdukas – 4,071 m (13,356 ft)
The trail continued to climb up and down the side of Baltoro Glacier. Sometimes we had a trail, but more often we were hopping between large boulders as we passed small and large glacial tarns. In some areas we could see where the ice has recently fractured. The smaller pieces were melting, causing rocks to drop into the glacier lakes.
As we travelled, we walked past Castle Peak and the two glaciers on either side. Throughout the entire length of Baltoro, we passed several of these small side glaciers. Anywhere else they would have been large glaciers, but here, we almost didn’t even notice them.
Throughout the days, army helicopters were seen and heard flying up and down the valley. Some were taking supplies to the army camps along the valley. We were told that others were taking climbers back from K2 basecamp. Some of the helicopters seemed to be flying very close to these tall walls.
At one point we could see a little of Broad Peak poking through the clouds, far in the distance. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world (8051 m/16,414 ft). Beside it, the pyramid shaped Gasherbrum IV also tried to make an appearance. They were mostly in clouds, but seeing even just a glimpse of them made us more excited to be among these giants.
We had spent all day walking across the glacier with no vegetation in sight. Right before camp however, we were surprised to see a slope full of leafy bushes. As we walked by we even more surprised to hear song birds. It felt like the birds were welcoming us to camp with their pretty songs.
Urdukas Camp is similar to Khoburtse. It is on a series of terraces overlooking Baltoro Glacier. From our tent we could see Cathedral Peak and Trango Tower. What a treat!
The mules who carry heavy loads of food and equipment all day had to climb even higher for their dinner. High above camp were grassy slopes where the mules could finally eat.
Our porters work very hard carrying our personal bags, food and camp supplies. Most were wearing simple shoes and light kurtas, made for Pakistan’s hot climate, not harsh mountain weather. In spite of this, they always greeted us with a friendly smile.
We were in Urdukas Camp on an important day in Islamic faith. At night when we were lying in our tent, we heard a group of them saying prayers, then singing and clapping to the rhythm. It was too dark to go watch, and we weren’t even sure if that would be acceptable. So we just listened from out tent. Hearing their songs of devotion made the day feel even more special.
With our first sighting of K2’s neighbour, Broad Peak, we knew that the giant was near. The big question was, would we be lucky enough to see her.
You can read about the next part of the hike in our post K2 Base Camp Trek – Concordia.
To read more of our hikes around the world go to Treks.
To read Richard’s Everest climb click on the links to Part 1 – Island Peak; Part 2 – Khumbu Icefall; Part 3 – The Summit Push. To read Richard’s other Seven Summit expeditions, click on Seven Summits.
Coming Next – K2 Base Camp Trek – Concordia
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To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
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