The skirts on their white robes rippled as they spun around and around. Their steps kept in rhythm with the hypnotic music. Seeing the Whirling Dervishes in Konya was one of the most magical displays of spiritual devotion we’ve ever seen.
The Whirling Dervish is one of the most fascinating and yet misunderstood religious practices in Turkey. After spending time in Konya, the city where it all began, I can’t say we have a deep understanding of this Sufi meditation, but we are a little closer than before we arrived.
Sufism is a method of studying and practicing the Islamic faith. Sufis are mystics who renounce material objects and reject their egos as they attempt to get closer to God. They do this through meditation where they try to achieve transcendence in order to attain enlightenment. Sufi meditation takes many forms depending on the fraternity they follow.
In the 13th century Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, a poet and Sufi mystic, began whirling as a form of spiritual meditation. He was living in the Seljuk capital of Konya, and his new approach to enlightenment gained followers, called dervishes. Eventually, the Mevlevi Order was formed and became a fraternity within the Sufi movement of Islam.
Rumi was given the title Mevlana. It is a title of respect and means leader or guide. To this day, Rumi is a very respected spiritual authority and poet. After his death, a lodge, or monastery, was built in Konya for the dervish to continue to study Rumi’s teachings and meditation methods.
The form of mediation used by the Mevlevi Order is quite unique. Dressed in white robes and tall cone hats, Whirling Dervish mystics spin in circles as they meditate. The formal name of their meditation is sema. Although it appears to be a dance, it is not. It is an active form of spiritual mediation that is part of a larger ritual that involves fasting for hours and chanting prayers called dhikr.
In 1925 the leader of newly formed Republic of Turkey, Ataturk, banned all branches of Sufism including the Mevlevi Order. All of their lodges were closed. Sufis were forced to retreat to private residences to continue their meditation. Today although still illegal, apparently some forms of meditation are tolerated.
Since the banning, Whirling Dervish shows that are held in Turkey are typically called cultural performances rather than spiritual rituals. In some of them, the performers are not even dervish. In Konya however, the semas held at the Mevlana Museum are performed by followers of Mevlevi Order. We attended a performance of Whirling Dervishes in the museum’s Rose Garden next to the Mausoleum of Mevlana. This outdoor setting was the perfect venue for this magical experience.
Before the sema began we were given a little information on the dervishes, the meditation as well as audience rules. After these formalities, eight musicians, eleven dervishes and two sheiks solemnly walked into the garden. They wore long dark cloaks, called hirkas that represent their worldly body. The dervishes bowed and sat on a carpet at the side. Mesmerising music played while the dervishes prepared themselves for meditation.
Slowly they rose and cast off the cloaks, symbolizing the loss of their connectedness to the world. Underneath their cloaks are white robes with broad skirts, called entari. After bowing to the sheikh, one by one the mystics began to spin until the entire floor was filled with the whirl of white. Their hands began on their shoulders, then moved to their chests before finally rising above their shoulders. The left hand pointed to the ground while the right pointed toward heaven.
As they whirled, their heads tilted to the side. Some had their eyes closed, others were open but appeared glazed over, not focusing on anything.
With each turn they silently chanted ‘Allah’ as they spun on their left leg. Their continual whirl caused their white skirts to flare out forming a continuous ripple in wave-like patterns. We sat in the front row and became mesmerized; pulled in to their calm, trance-like state.
There were four sessions of the whirling meditation; each slowly began and ended with a bow. By the 4th session a few of the dervishes moaned; likely having achieved their goal of transcendence. The sheik, dressed in black, appeared to have also attained enlightenment.
After the final session ended they slowly donned their black cloaks and silently departed while we both sat in our seats in a quiet moment of tranquility.
Seeing such acts of devotion is very powerful. We couldn’t help but relate this to a Buddhist puja we saw in Mustang, Nepal where the monks snapped their fingers in unison while chanting, or the Gregorian monks chanting in a church in São Paulo, Brazil.
Here’s our short video of The Whirling Dervishes in Konya. If you have your volume on you can hear the hypnotic music the musicians played.
We’re glad we saw the Whirling Dervishes in this intimate setting in Konya, rather than a big show at a large centre in Istanbul. I’m not sure we would have had the same reaction. Being in the Rose garden, in front of the tomb of Rumi, made it seem much more authentic than in a large auditorium.
How to see the Whirling Dervishes in Konya
These free ceremonies in Mevlana Museum’s Rose Garden are held every Thursday evening during the summer months (June to September). It is very popular so arrive early. We arrived 30 minutes early and there was already a line-up. There is no dress code, but conservative dress is preferred.
In addition to seeing the Whirling Dervishes, there are a few other historic sites in Konya that are worth a visit.
Mevlana Museum (Mevlâna Müzesi)
The mausoleum of Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, was built over his grave in 1273 by Seljuk architects. Unfortunately, its elaborate turquoise roof was covered in scaffolding when we were there. A dervish lodge or monastery was built beside the mausoleum by the Ottoman much later. In 1925, the lodge was closed when Sufism was declared illegal. Today the mausoleum and lodge are a part of the Mevlana Museum.
As we entered the mausoleum, we knew this was not a regular museum; it felt much more sacred. Lanterns hang along the edges of the carpeted walkway. Sixty-five sarcophogai lie around the edge of the room. They are for his son Sultan Veled, notable dervish leaders and relatives of Rumi. Behind them, the stark white walls covered in Ottoman calligraphy.
The mausoleum is an important pilgrimage site for Muslims across Turkey. Their presence added to the sacred ambience. Many pilgrims were walking beside the tombs with their palms facing their heart in prayer. Others were praying along the side of the room.
Near the centre of the L shaped room is the large sarcophagus of Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi. It is draped in green fabric embellished with golden calligraphy. A large turban on the head of the sarcophagus indicates the spiritual authority of Sufi teachers. A higher number of wraps of the turban indicates a higher stature. Many of the sarcophagi in the mausoleum had these turbans, but the one on Rumi’s was the largest.
Contrasting the white walls in the rest of the room, the walls behind Rumi’s sarcophagus are adorned with golden, red and black ceramic tiles. They continue high above to decorate the vaulted ceiling that is under the turquoise dome.
The mausoleum door opens up to a large courtyard surrounded by seventeen cells belonging to the dervish lodge. Each cell has their own small domed roof. We had see these roofs from outside of the complex before entering.
Followers of Mevlevi Order had to earn the privilege of living in one of these cells through 1001 days of suffering. Today the cells are used by the museum to display artifacts such as lanterns, Masnavi (Sufi prayer book), musical instruments and clothing. A couple of the cells have displays showing how they would have been used by the dervish living in them.
Next to the cells is a building with a communal kitchen and dining room. Above them is a stage that was used as the ritual hall.
Entry is free; Opening Hours – 9:00 am to 6:30 pm
Note – Appropriate dress is required. Women must cover their arms, legs and hair. Men must cover their legs. Plastic shoe covers must be worn inside the mausoleum. They are provided at the entrance.
Seljuk Architecture
Konya was the capital of the Seljuk Empire from the 12th to 13th centuries. We were first introduced to Seljuk architecture in Erzrurum and were interested to see their buildings in Konya. There are only a few buildings that display the elaborate designs that they used, but we could see the resemblance in some of the features.
Alâeddin Mosque
Located in a park on Alâeddin Tepe (Hill), the 13th century mosque is believed to be one the oldest Seljuk mosques in Turkey. We were surprised that the building itself is rather plain. It wasn’t until we saw the entrance gate from below that we could see the famous elaborate Seljuk features.
Across the street is the Seljuk built Karatay Madrasa that now operates as a museum.
Ince Minaret Madrasa
The entrance to this 13th century madrasa is very beautiful. Its stone doorway is decorated with detailed inlays and muqarnas. The Minaret has glazed bricks in similar patterns that we saw in Erzurum. Today it is a Stone and Woodwork Museum, but was closed when we were there.
Sahib-i Ata Complex
Built in 1277, this Seljuk complex has a mosque and several tombs, but it is the outer wall that caught our attention. The entrance gate is a good example of the brilliant designs used by the Seljuks. In addition to its delicate carvings, the stone gate has lovely stalactite-style muqarnas above the door. Beside it is a minaret with wonderful blue glazed bricks designs. Unfortunately, the original mosque is no longer standing.
Ottoman Mosques
There are a couple of historical Ottoman mosques in Konya that are worth visiting.
Sultan Selim Mosque
Beside Mevlana Museum is the 16th century Selimiye Mosque. It is a grand building and takes up a large section of Mevlana Square. Inside, its white domed ceilings have golden and blue decorations, similar to other Ottoman mosques throughout Turkey.
We don’t know the occasion, but we happened upon an Ottoman military band playing in Mevlana Square in front of the mosque.
Azizye Mosque
Situated on the edge of Konya’s Grand Bazaar, is the most elaborate Ottoman mosque in the city. The golden accents around the entrance make it a very pretty building. Inside its most notable feature is the elaborate mihrab at the front.
Tips for visiting Konya
We had read that Konya is a very conservative and religious city. While the museum was filled with pilgrims, the remainder of the city felt like a typical city in Eastern Turkey. It’s not at all like the touristy, liberal beach towns in other parts of the country though, so conservative dress is expected.
We enjoyed our time in Konya. It is a very nice city and much less expensive than other cities in Turkey.
Where to stay in Konya
Plan to stay near the Mevlana Museum where there are lots of choices for hotels and restaurants.
How to get to Konya
Konya has a domestic airport with flights from Istanbul. There is also a high-speed train between Istanbul and Konya. The city is spread out, so the airport and bus station are quite far from downtown. The bus company Ozkaymak though, makes stops at the train station (Trengari) which is much closer to downtown.
Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Turkey.
To read more of our adventure in Turkey, click here.
Coming Next – Explore Cappadocia’s Fairytale Towns
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