Almost as popular as Turkey’s Turquoise Coast, the Aegean Coast offers visitors a little different experience. Although there are plenty of beaches in the area, boating in the Aegean Sea seems like the more popular activity.
Marmaris
Located where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean, the old fishing village of Marmaris has transformed itself into a harbour city for exclusive yachts. Its long harbour is filled with 70 to 100 foot sailboats, catamarans and luxury motor boats.
The many islands in the bay means that the water is less choppy than places further east on this coast like Bodrum. These conditions make it the perfect place to explore by sea.
Today the fishing boats have been relegated to a quiet canal. Their presence adds character to this city, making it feel more like a small town than the busy city that it is. The background consists of pine covered hills that gave the city its nickname Green Marmaris (Yeşil Marmaris).
Above the marina is a 16th century Ottoman fortress. Narrow cobblestone pathways lined by whitewashed heritage homes climb the steep hill leading to it. Some of these old buildings now house shops, boutique hotels and restaurants. It’s a fun part of the city to explore.
Some of the best city views can be found from above the city. We enjoyed lovely vistas from the hilltops as well as from the rooftop restaurant, Panorama Cafe. Having Turkish coffee served in a traditional silver coffee set made our stop at this cafe even better.
Along the water, a long walkway follows the convoluted shore. You can walk from the eastern end where luxury yachts are docked to the beaches on the western side. The two feel like completely different cities. Instead of a marina, the western shore has a mix of sand and pebble beaches. Some have first come first serve free umbrellas and others have bars who rent their beach chairs and umbrellas. The other difference is the businesses. Behind the boats are dozens of patios belonging to restaurants and pubs. Behind the beaches there are discos and beachwear shops.
If you want to explore further there are many small coves up and down the coast that are perfect for day trips. One of the most popular is İçmeler Beach. As well there are numerous opportunities to go on a day cruise through the islands of the Aegean Sea, up Dalyan River, or even to Rhodes, Greece.
We really enjoyed our short stay in Marmaris. The community near the marina has a nice atmosphere that is much different from other Turkish resort towns.
Where to stay in Mamaris
The part of the city you stay will depend on they type of holiday you want. For a quieter stay, look for hotels closer to Old Town and the marina. For a party vacation, you should stay near the western side of the bay near Marmaris Beach.
Getting to Marmaris
The nearest airports are Dalaman Airport, 95km east of the city, and Bodrum, 130 km away. Buses frequently travel to/from Fetiye, Datça and Bodrum.
Datça
Set in the middle of the long, narrow Datça peninsula, the town of the same name is not what we expected. We had heard glowing reports of this quaint village set in a gorgeous, quiet cove between the two tourist cities of Marmaris and Bodrum. On paper this description is true, but Datça didn’t quite live up to our expectations. It has the feeling of a rundown 1970s resort with current-day luxury resort prices. You won’t be able to tell from the pictures, but the town lacks character.
Although the town did not live up to expectations, its location did. The large bay is broken up into three smaller coves by rocky points making it very picturesque. The coves are host to small pebble beaches with room on their edges for speed boats, fishing boats and small tour boats.
Old Datça is 4 km away from the main town. Set on a small hill almost in the middle of the peninsula, the village’s narrow streets are bordered by 11th century stone homes. It would be adorable if it weren’t for the bus loads of tourists crowding the narrow streets. Most of these old buildings are now restaurants serving lunch for the tour bus crowds.
IF you get away from the busy main sidewalk though, it is much quieter. Most of these old homes are now vacation homes owned by wealthy Istanbulites.
Its location on the Aegean Sea means that there used to be a large Greek population in the area. Since the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923 though, the number of Greek residents has dwindled. They left behind a few stone windmills scattered around the hills not far from Old Datça. Most of the Kizlan Windmills are in ruin, but a few have been renovated and used as cafes. It would be a unique spot to come for breakfast or lunch.
Unless you want to laze on a rocky beach, Datça is a nice stop for a day, but not a longer stay.
Getting to Datça.
For a small town it is remarkably well connected. Large buses travel to and from all of the major centres and minibuses go between nearby cities such as Bodrum and Marmaris. There is also a ferry between Bodrum and Datça which is how we travelled.
Bodrum
Taking a ferry from Datça across the Aegean Sea to Bodrum felt more like a cruise than a ferry ride. We passed many islands, some Turkish, others Greek. Together they form a scenic part of the sea.
The water is a bit rough in places though, so if you’re prone to seasickness don’t have a big breakfast before the trip.
Arriving to the large city of Bodrum by boat is a fantastic way to first set your eyes on this port city. We entered the long undulated bay between hundreds of boats ranging from small sailing and fishing boats to large yachts and cruise ships. Above the city, small hills complete the pretty scene.
Jutting out into the water is an old fortress that divides the harbour into two.
A long boardwalk takes you along the water, but you don’t really see the ocean past the tightly packed boats. In the midst of these large sailboats is an interesting wooden boat from the 1960s. This humble boat is an example of the boats used for sponge hunting which was once a large industry in Bodrum.
Along the water’s edge is an endless chain of patios. They look best at night when their lights reflect off the sea.
Some of the best view of this complex coast are from the hills above town. After hiking up the dry hills we found the views we were looking for. These spots made us really appreciate the city’s law forbidding tall high-rises near the waterfront.
On one hill we found seven 18th century Greek windmills. When the Greeks were forced to leave Turkey in 1923, the windmills were abandoned, but they provide a different aspect to the city. From the windmills we looked down to both of Bodrum’s large bays. One filled with boats, the other loaded with sunbeds and umbrellas on Gümbet Beach.
As well as the city, there are many day trips from Bodrum that allow you to explore the coastal beaches, or the islands of the Aegean Sea. From Bodrum you can take a ferry to Kos, Greece.
Bodrum has lovely views but it is a much busier, more touristy city than Marmaris.
Getting to Bodrum
The large city has an international airport. Flying domestically in Turkey is generally quite inexpensive, but often connect through Istanbul making what should be a short flight much longer. Also note that there are two airports in Istanbul, located on opposite sides of the city. Bodrum is also well connected to many cities by bus and the bus station isn’t too far from the main harbour. We think though, that the best way to arrive in Bodrum is by ferry. Ferries travel between Bodrum and Datça as well as Kos and a few other Greek cities.
Where to stay in Bodrum
There is no shortage of hotels and apartments for rent in Bodrum. Most tourists will stay within walking distance of the harbour. This is also where the majority of restaurants are located.
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Coming Next – The Ancient City Of Ephesus
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