As the oldest, continuously inhabited city in Europe, there is a lot of history lingering on the streets of Plovdiv. Located on the Balkan Peninsula between Europe and Asia meant that many travellers passed through over the ages. A visit to Bulgaria’s Plovdiv allows you to explore the array of buildings and monuments left behind from these earlier civilizations.
The first known occupants of this area were the Thracians in the 6th century BCE. Since then it has been home to Romans, Byzantines, Bulgars, Ottomans and Soviets, among others. Old Town Plovdiv is located on three small hills; Nebet Tepe, Taksim Tepe, and Dzhambaz Tepe. These three hills have been points of interest for the ruling empires for centuries and give the Old Town a unique feel.
Glavnata
Begin your exploration on the city’s long pedestrian street called Knyaz Alexander Battenberg I. Commonly called Glavnata (Main Street), this lively area has a good sampling of 19th and 20th century buildings. With a combination of Soviet, Ottoman and Bulgarian Revival buildings, it’s a great introduction to the varied history of this country. Most of those buildings have been converted to stores and restaurants making it a popular place for locals.
Roman Ruins
The city was called Philippopolis in Roman times and you can still find remnants of this era beneath the streets of Old Town. Roman ruins including the large Ancient Stadium and Forum of Philippopolis have been uncovered are now on display in the middle of this walking street.
A little outside of Old Town, a 1st century Roman theatre lies on the side of one of the hills. Apparently, Theatre of Philippi is one of the best-preserved ancient theatres in the world.
Bulgarian Revival Architecture
Plovdiv’s Old Town gave us our first glimpse into Bulgarian Revival architecture. Beginning as a ground level movement in the late 1700s, Bulgarians wanted to reclaim their heritage that had been lost under 500 years of Ottoman rule. By the 19th century, Plovdiv merchants began to acquire wealth and built mansions in what they considered a unique Bulgarian style.
These wooden homes have an overhanging upper floor and a carved support beam between the upper and lower levels. They are often colourfully painted and have detailed features carved into the wooden trim. To us, they still looked quite similar to the Ottoman houses we saw in Turkey. The main differences were the colours and the curved, rather than straight, support beams.
You can see the Ottoman architecture in our post Cumalıkızık – Historic Ottoman Village. You can learn more about the Bulgarian style in our post Bulgarian Revival Architecture.
Revival Churches
During the revival movement large, embellished churches were built. One of the oldest churches in Plovdiv is located on the site where Severin and Memnos were beheaded for spreading the Christian faith in the 4th century. The original church that was built on this spot fell into disrepair during the Ottoman rule. In the 1800s, a large new church was built. St. Konstantin & Elena Church is the perfect example of the ornate decorations used in revival churches. Its interior glitters from the amount of gold on the altar and pulpit. At the front, golden frames surround portraits of Orthodox saints and patriarchs. Walls on the building’s exterior are painted with depictions of stories from the Bible.
A few blocks away we found another interesting church. St. Nedelya Church was originally built in 1700s, but that building was demolished. A mid 19th century Revival church replaced it. On the outside it doesn’t look very impressive, but inside is another story. At the front, an intricately carved wooden alter will take your breath away. It demonstrates the skill of the woodworkers during the revival period.
Sahat Tepe Clock Tower
On top of Sahat Tepe (hill) is an old clock tower. We arrived at noon just as the bell on top of the 16th century tower started to ring. A minute of two later a man came out of the small door on the front of the tower. It was so heart warming to see that the old bell is still rung by hand. The clock from the tower is now in a museum in town.
The tower is nice, but what’s even nicer are the views you get from there of the city below.
Day Trips from Plovdiv
Bachkovo Monastery
Nestled in the Rhodope Mountains south of Plovdiv is a large Bulgarian Orthodox Monastery. Bachkovo Monastery was originally established in the 11th century by Georgian monks. Unfortunately only one of these original buildings remain. The rest of the complex dates from the 17th and 19th centuries.
We entered through a large, stone wall with a rounded arched entryway.
On the other side of that gate is a serene courtyard edged by two and three-story buildings. Pastel frescoes adorn their walls. Many of the rooms are monks’ residences as it is still an active monastery.
Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary is a large stone church that takes up most of the courtyard’s interior. Inside the church, the walls are painted in dark colours that make the golden decorations stand out even more. Frescoes of Christian stories as well as portraits of saints and patriarchs emblazon the walls. The altar is a golden wonder with sparkling frames around the portraits and a large golden chandelier in the centre. The dark walls and golden glitter are a stark contrast to the pastel paintings in the courtyard outside.
The monastery is a pilgrimage site and there were four or five people sitting along the edge of the room praying.
Entrance fee – Free; Opening Hours – 7am to 7pm
If you like Bachkovo Monastery, you will really enjoy Rila Monastery that we visited next. You can read about it in our post Rila Monastery & Rila 7 Lakes Trek.
Getting to the Monastery
If you have a car it is an easy drive to the monastery. It is also possible by public transportation. Buses leave Plovdiv for Asenovgrad, from the South Bus station. From there you can take the bus that runs between Asenovgrad to Smolyan and get off at the monastery which is 1 kilometer past Bachkovo village. The buses are not frequent though so taking a taxi from Asenovgrad may be easier. There are also tours from Plovdiv that include both the monastery and Asen’s Fortress. You can easily visit both the monastery and the fortress on the same day.
Asen’s Fortress
Precariously perched on a rocky cliff above Asenitsa River gorge are the remains of an old fortress and church. Originally built by the Thracians in the 5th century BCE, the fortress was expanded by Romans and then Byzantines. In the 13th century, Tsar Asen of the 2nd Bulgarian Empire added to it and lent his name to the complex.
Below the fortress is the best preserved building on the site. The medieval Church of the Holy Mother of God has a great location on the edge of the steep cliffs. You can enter the church to see a few examples of 13th century Orthodox artwork on the second floor. The frescoes are badly damaged, but you can make out details in a few images.
Above the church are the fortress ruins. All that’s left are a few half walls but from them you are treated to lovely views of the town of Asenovgrad and the church below.
There are several chapels in this area. Below the fortress is a hiking trail to Sveti Atanasii Chapel. Another is a kilometer or so before the fortress. A faint trail leads up a short way to the small Parish Church of St. Ilya.
Entrance fee – 3 BGN ($1.60 USD); Opening Hours – 9 am to 6 pm
Getting to Asen’s Fortress
If you have a car it is an easy drive to the fortress. It is also possible by public transportation. Buses leave Plovdiv for Asenovgrad, from the South Bus station. From Asenovgrad you can take a taxi or walk 3 km to the fortress. There are also tours from Plovdiv that include both the fortress and Bachkovo Monastery. You can easily visit both the fortress and monastery on the same day.
How to get to Plovdiv
Plovdiv is Bulgaria’s second largest city so is easy to reach. You can fly into they city’s international airport or reach it from Sofia and a few other towns by train. Buses run between Plovdiv and large cities including Istanbul and Sofia. Smaller, local villages are reached by minibus.
Getting to many of the small, mountain communities in Bulgaria is not as easy by public transportation so renting a car is often a better option. Take note, visitors from almost any country outside of the EU need to show a physical copy of their international driver’s permit. A digital copy is not enough. Car rental agencies are very strict with this rule.
Where to stay and eat in Plovdiv
There are many hotels and restaurants in Old Town. Try to stay within walking distance to Glavnata pedestrian street or in the bohemian Kapana District which is filled with outdoor cafes.
Tip – There is not a lot of English spoken in Bulgaria and they use the Cyrillic Alphabet. It would be wise to have your destinations written in Cyrillic before leaving your hotel. Google Lens is very helpful to translate written material such as menus.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Plovdiv.
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To read more of our adventures in Bulgaria click here.
Coming Next – Rila Monastery & 7 Rila Lakes Trek
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