Looking over the terracotta roofs we could see the large Lago de Suchitlán (Suchitlán Lake) far below. Between this view and the colourful heritage homes that climb up and down the streets in town, we couldn’t understand why there weren’t more foreign tourists in Suchitoto. In fact, as we explored the cobblestone streets, we realized that we were almost the only foreigners in town. It’s too bad because we think Suchitoto is the nicest city in all of El Salvador. Hopefully this post will entice more people to visit the colonial town of Suchitoto in El Salvador.
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In the middle of the 11th century, the Pipil people migrated from central Mexico to El Salvador. The people who settled in Suchitoto harvested indigo from the Xiquilite plant that grows wild in the surrounding jungle. The Pipils used indigo to decorate their ceramics and clothing.
In the 1500s the Spanish invaded the region and established the first Spanish capital of El Salvador in Suchitoto. They called it San Salvador. They then proceeded to take over the indigo production. It became such a prized commodity for the Spanish that it was known as ‘blue gold’. As soon as an artificial indigo coloured dye was invented, natural indigo became less valuable and production ceased. A few local artisans have revived this old tradition and sell their indigo dyed clothing in town.
Tip – These artisans also run workshops where you can learn their techniques.
The Spanish only remained in Suchitoto for 17 years before they abandoned the city and moved the capital to San Salvador. Even though the Spanish didn’t stay long, their colonial homes remained and are lived in by the residents of this artistic community. Our favourite past-time in Suchitoto was to amble through the town and admire the many pastel-coloured homes with interesting features like wrought-iron windows and doors. As we walked, we thought about the history that has transpired behind those walls.
The cute cobbled streets are set in a grid pattern, typical in Spanish colonial towns. The only problem with them is that they are not usual cobble-stones, but were actually made from river-rock. So, although they look charming, they are very difficult to walk on.
In addition to its indigo production, this small city made a name for itself during the country’s Civil War. After several decades of suffering under ruthless dictators, tensions reached a tipping point in the 1970s. There was a large divide in the country between the wealthy elites and the poverty-stricken population. In Suchitoto specifically, the vast fertile farmlands were owned by a very small group of landowners. This wealth inequality led to many protests and uprisings by the peasant farmers. Over time, the riots becoming more and more frequent and spread throughout the country. Eventually several guerilla militant groups formed. The military did not think the government could effectively control the growing number of uprisings so they staged a coup, overthrew the government and formed a military junta. This junta leadership was even worse for the common people.
By the early 1980s El Salvador was fully immersed in a Civil War that lasted 12 years. During this time horrible acts of violence were committed by the military against their own citizens causing the different bands of guerillas to join together to form the FMLN (El Frente Farabundo Martí para la Liberación Nacional). Suchitoto’s population supported the FMLN guerrillas and so a large guerilla base was established in the mountains and jungles around the town. They remained there for the duration of the civil war.
Tip – There are tours in Suchitoto that take you hiking through the jungle to a former FMLN guerrilla camp if you’re interested.
During the war, many people escaped El Salvador and fled to United States, especially to California. Young men ended up forming or joining gangs with Mexicans and other Latin American refugees. After the civil war ended many of these gang members returned to El Salvador. Unfortunately, they brought with them their gang allegiances. The population suffered again, this time it was extreme violence from wars between gangs. Innocent people were killed. Others were robbed, kidnapped or extorted. This went on for many years making El Salvador one of the most dangerous places on earth.
The current president pledged to put a stop to gang warfare. With their policies and actions, they successfully jailed almost 70,000 people. It appears that the gangs have been eliminated or at least under control and the country is safer for citizens of El Salvador. We can’t claim that this current government does not have its faults, but the country is enjoying a degree of stability that it hasn’t seen in decades.
Because of its proximity to the guerilla camps, many of the buildings in Suchitoto were decimated. When the war ended, the people of Suchitoto rose up to rebuild their city. They did a great job restoring it so that today Suchitoto is a safe and vibrant colonial town. In addition to the colourful homes, there are peaceful parks and gardens throughout the city.
Suchitoto is more than just pretty. The people who live in the town are also incredibly friendly. As we strolled through town, we were greeted by a welcoming ‘Buenas Dias’ from everyone we met. As we passed one humble home the man called out to us and gave us mangos from a tree in his yard. After living though such horrible times, the people are some of the most gracious and kind that we have met anywhere in the world.
After you’ve aimlessly wandered up and down the historic streets, don’t forget to check out these spots in town.
Parque Central de Suchitoto (Central Park)
In the heart of the heritage town is a lovely park where benches are placed beneath tall shade trees. It is a very popular place for locals to congregate. This busy place is a prime location for the city’s vendors to sell a variety of items. We’re not completely sure what you are supposed to do with the gourd necklaces that were being sold by one interesting character we saw.
Along the side of the park is Santa Lucia Church. Built in 1853, it was one of the first churches built in post-colonial El Salvador and was purposely built to not look like a colonial church. Its tall, false front has a unique design with columns, a lintel and three bell towers.
The domed roof on the side also has something truly unique. Dinner plates, wine glasses and a bleeding heart adorn its domed roof. There are two version of the story as to why there are plates and glasses on the roof. They both begin with a bride who was to be married in the church. One story says she was so happy with her wedding that she donated the plates and glasses to the church as a gift. Another version says she was left at the altar and didn’t want these wedding gifts anymore so gave them to the church. Either way, they do give a quirky design to the white church and match the personality of this artistic community.
The flaming heart is a recent addition. It is symbolic of the burning love Christ has for all of humanity. Maggie thought it was a strawberry for a long time.
Inside, the church also looks a little different with tall, wooden pillars reaching up a barrel vaulted roof and baby blue cabinets along the side. The church was used to house refugees during the civil war and has recently undergone restoration.
Lago de Suchitlá
The town is spread out on a plateau above Lago de Suchitlá (Lake Suchitlá ). This artificial lake was created when Cerrón Grande River was dammed in the 1970s to become a major source of electricity for the country. This resulted in the flooding of thousands of people’s homes and small farms and was part of the cause of the farmers’ uprising. Even with this history, today it is a pleasant spot for locals and tourists alike.
We visited near the end of dry season, so the water levels of the lake were down. The low water exposed an undulating shore with meadows where cows grazed beside dry docked boats waiting for the next flood.
A tourist zone has been set up along the shore of of the lake. It includes Puerto San Juan where you can hire a boat to take you for trips around the lake. There are also several restaurants where you can sit and enjoy lunch or a drink with a view of the lake. The entrance fee for this area is $1 USD.
Getting to the lake – You can easily walk from town to the lake. It’s only 2 km and has a 200 m elevation loss. There is also a public bus that travels to and from the town (35¢ USD). It’s not a bad walk down but we really appreciated the bus ride back up because the temperatures were in the 40s C.
Suchitoto is an indigenous Nahuat word meaning ‘in the land of flowers and birds’. During Oct and November there is a large bird migration around the lake. We were there a bit too late for for the migration, but even without seeing these birds, it is a nice spot.
Alejandro Cottoz Casa
Beloved El Salvador film director, writer and photographer Alejandro Cottoz lived for many years in Suchitoto. His large house is now a museum. It has a large colonnaded walkways surrounding a lovely garden that includes mango and orange trees, a rose garden and many other flowers. Small rooms off to the side were used as bedrooms and a study, but my favourite was the heavily tiled kitchen.
The house sites in a cliff above Lago de Suchitlá and from the edge of the garden we looked down to the lake.
Los Tercios Waterfall
A kilometer outside town is a small but interesting rock feature. During rainy season columnar basalt formations are the background to a small waterfall. When we were there Los Tercios (The Thirds) Waterfall was dry but the 10 metre high rock formations were still an interesting feature to see. Of course you must know that these odd shaped rocks have a legend attached to them. It is one of unrequited love between a young indigenous boy and the daughter of a wealthy family. When her parents kept them apart, the boy’s parents put a curse on her family’s fabric warehouse. The curse turned the family’s rolls of fabric into these stone columns.
In reality, they were likely formed from the eruption of Guazapa volcano eons ago.
The waterfall apparently has water between May and December. Entrance fee is $1 USD.
In many ways Suchitoto reminded us of Ataco, another colonial El Salvadorian town. You can read about Ataco in our post Ruta de las Flores.
Getting to Suchitoto
Suchitoto is only 60 km from San Salvador and would be an easy drive if you have your own car. You can also reach it by public transit. Buses leave from San Salvador’s New Bus Terminal called Terminal Neuve Oriente Plaza Amanecer. Do not go to the places recommended on the internet such as Punta de Microbuses 140. As of April 2024 they only leave from the New Bus station. If travelling to or from other destinations by bus you will need to go through San Salvador.
Where to stay in Suchitoto
You could visit Suchitoto on a day trip from the capital, but it such a cute town that we think you should stay for at least a night. There are many small hotels and guesthouses in town and nothing is very far from the main square. Do get air conditioning though as it is very hot.
Best time to visit Suchitoto
Dry season runs from November to April, and would be the best time to visit. But know that it will be very hot at this time, especially in April. Rainy season is in the spring and fall; May/ June and August to October.
Safety in Suchitoto
Even though Suchitoto was the site for guerilla basecamps during the civil war, today it is one of the safest parts of El Salvador. In fact, recent changes in government crackdowns on gang violence has made the entire country a lot safer. Even with this decrease in crime, always use safe practices such as not carrying a lot of cash or expensive jewelry or walking alone at night when travelling in El Salvador.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Suchitoto.
To read more of our adventures in El Salvador, click here.
Coming Next – How To Spend A Day In San Salvador
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