Some of Argentina’s most impressive Jesuit buildings are found in the city of Córdoba. Tucked between the newer buildings of this worn-out city is the Jesuit Block, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to these distinguished buildings, you can find other elaborate churches, only a few streets away. Although not high on most tourists’ radars, those who love heritage churches will be happy to have visited Córdoba.
First, a little history
Before it was established in 1573, the land was inhabited by the indigenous Comechingones. The founder, Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, was governor of this small western province in the Viceroyalty of Peru. He named his new city Córdoba de la Nueva Andalucía (Córdoba of the New Andalusia) because his wife’s family lived in Córdoba, Spain.
Soon after the city was settled, the Jesuits arrived and established Argentina’s first university, followed by several churches. As a result, today, the city’s historic centre boasts a large collection of Jesuit and other wonderful buildings from that time. In fact, they are so impressive that collectively, these Jesuit buildings are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Its location on 18th-century trade routes that connected the continent’s interior with the sea, resulted in Córdoba becaming very prosperous. Once Buenos Aires became the capital, however, it lost its importance and wealth. Adding to this, in the mid-18th century, the Spanish king expelled the Jesuits from South America. Fortunately for visitors today, many of the glorious buildings from this era still stand.
Jesuit Block
The Jesuit buildings in the designated UNESCO World Heritage Site are located within a city block referred to as the Jesuit Block (Manzana Jesuítica).
1. Colegio Nacional de Monserrat
Established in 1687, the Jesuit university, Colegio Nacional de Monserrat, is the second oldest school in Argentina. When the Jesuits were expelled, the school came under the Franciscans, who moved it to its current building from the same era. Today, it operates as a private high school, so visitors are not allowed inside. From its exterior, though, we can appreciate the contrast between its dominating size and delicate adornments.
2. National University of Córdoba
Attached to this building is the University of Córdoba, which dates back to 1613, making it the oldest university in Argentina and the third oldest in the Americas. Inside, the old Rectory Building houses the University History Museum, but since it is a functioning university, a lot of the site is closed to visitors.
Across the pedestrian street is the 19th century, Mudejar-style, Faculty of Law Building.
3. La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
In the same block as the schools is the oldest church in Córdoba. Built in 1671, La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Church of the Society of Jesus) is also known as the Church of Saint Ignatius. The masonry on its outer walls seems a bit haphazard, but this look suits the old building and gives it a personality. Two tall bell towers hover above, but as with most Jesuit churches, there are very few decorations.
Inside, there are a few paintings on the walls, but it is the ceiling and altar that steal the show. The ribbed ceiling, made of Paraguayan cedar, leads your eye to the gilded altar at the front. Sunday mass was taking place, so we weren’t able to walk around the nave too much.
On the side of the church is an old, sculpted door for the Capilla de Domestica (Domestic Chapel). The 17th century chapel is a private church and residence of the Jesuit Fathers.
Included in the UNESCO World Heritage designation are the Jesuit Estancias. These historic farms are found throughout the province and were revenue generators for the Jesuits. If you have extra time, it would be interesting to visit some.
If you want to read about more rustic Jesuit Missions in South America, visit our posts Jesuit Missions in Paraguay, Jesuit Missions of Chiquitania, Bolivia, or a Franciscan Mission in Yaguaron, Paraguay.
In addition to the buildings in the Jesuit Block, there are still several other heritage churches in Cordoba you won’t want to miss.
Church of the Capuchin Monks
The most decorated of them is the neo-Gothic Iglesia de los Capuchinos (Church of the Capuchin Monks). Built between the 1920s and 1930s, the eaves are decorated with dozens of cupolas, each with its own spire.
From the front, there are so many features that it’s difficult to focus on any one item. Its multicoloured, ribbed tympanum and columns are unique features, on their own, but the column’s animal pedestals put it over the top. They almost distract you from the larger than life sized states of Moses and John the Baptist on either side of the main door.
The mismatched towers are also quite different in design from the rest of the churches in Córdoba. They stand out, not only because of their patterned brick designs, but also because they do not match. This was a part of the symbolism in the design. The truncated tower represents death, while the needle-topped one represents the rise to heaven.
Inside, the wild motif continues with tall stripped columns along the side and golden steeples on the altar.
In front, the quirky Monkey Fountain from the 1940s, adds even more character to the flamboyant church.
Basilica Santo Domingo
Built in 1861, this was the third church erected on this spot after floods destroyed the first two. Our favourite part was the blue tiles that decorate the domes. The tiles were donated by the Argentine president, Urquiza, and really make this church special.
Convent of the Teresas
Built in the 1600s, it is formally named the Church of Saint Teresa and Monastery of San José of the Discalced Carmelites, and is the oldest monument of the Order of Carmelite nuns. The building was originally the home of Juan de Tejeda, but he converted it into a convent and built the attached church when his daughter became a nun. The church is open to visitors, but the remainder of the complex still operates as a closed-convent.
Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy
We could see the blue tiled dome of Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Basilica of Our Lady of Mercy) from a few blocks away. Built in 1776, the antique Baroque-style building doesn’t get as much attention as the other churches in the city, but we think it deserves a quick visit.
After visiting the many churches, save a bit of time to wander the streets, where you can find a few other historic gems between the rather rundown 20th century ones.
Plaza San Martin
A few blocks away from the Jesuit Block is Plaza San Martin. In the centre of the garden park is a statue of the General on a horse. Born in Argentina, General San Martín led an army to overthrow the Spanish, bringing independence to Argentina, Peru and Chile.
The first two structures built on the square were the cathedral and the city hall. Other than those two, the rest of the buildings are worn and tired 19th and 20th century, so it’s not a highlight. As well, there are a lot of homeless people sleeping in the park, so it isn’t a place you want to spend a lot of time.
Cathedral of Córdoba
The large 17th century cathedral is fronted by two tall towers whose bells still ring on the hour. Behind them, you can see the church’s tall dome. Work began on the church in 1582, but the large building wasn’t completed for almost 200 years. It may not be the oldest church in Argentina, but it has provided church service for the longest uninterrupted period of time.
Inside, it is far more decorated than its rather plain exterior. From the gold that highlights the paintings on the barrel-vaulted ceiling to the golden arches that separate the central nave into three sections, it is very ornate.
Cabildo
Beside the cathedral is the old City Hall, its marble arches are unadorned, and it doesn’t look as impressive as we expected, considering the other buildings in the city. The Cabildo served as the administrative headquarters for the colonial rulers, but today it is used for cultural events. Maybe it was the rain and grey sky, but it didn’t look very inviting to us.
The small Oratory of Bishop Mercadillo, located on the side of Plaza Martin, is much more interesting. The entrance is all that remains of the former home of the Bishop of Córdoba, but its carob wooden door and wrought iron balcony hint at its former apearance.
La Mundial
From the front, La Mundial looks like a lovely neoclassical building. Once you walk to the side, though, you will see that La Mudial is only one room deep. Legend says that two brothers fought over the building, resulting in it being cut in half. The actual history is that in the 1930s, a new road left the landowner with a skinny property. To make the best of it, he designed this building to fit the shape of the lot.
Cordoba Museum of Memory
Between 1976 and 1983, the dictatorial Guerra Sucia regime detained, tortured, raped, murdered, and disappeared those who spoke out and rallied against their rule. Housed in their former detention centre, the Museum of Memory (Museo de la Memoria) tells the story of the thousands of people who went missing, never to return to their families. It was closed when we visited, but we could still appreciate the powerful image of victims’ names listed in fingerprint patterns on its exterior wall.
Entry is free; Open – 10am-5pm Tues to Friday
Grandmothers of Plaza de Mayo
A monument related to this tragedy is found in Plazoleta de la Merced. A statue of Sonia Torres, local leader of the Grandmothers of Plaza de Mayo (Abuelos de Plaza de Mayo), honours this group. She organized a group that searched for those missing, including her grandson, who was born in captivity. She died without ever finding him.
We saw similar monuments in Buenos Aires’ Plaza de Mayo, San Martin de los Andes and El Chaltén.
There are quite a few pedestrian shopping streets in Córdoba’s downtown. We visited on a rainy Sunday, and found that it wasn’t the nicest part of the city. They were mostly empty, covered in litter and seemed to be a favoured place for the many homeless in the city, but they did lead us to a few nice buildings.
Although the Jesuit monuments are very impressive, we don’t recommend going out of your way to visit Córdoba. If you are travelling north, however, it is a logical stop, and you can easily fill your day visiting these wonderful Jesuit churches.
Where to stay in Córdoba
As the second largest city in Argentina, there are many hotels and short-term apartment rentals in the city. Try to find one near the Jesuit Block or Plaza San Martín, but be aware that there are many street people in the city’s downtown.
Where to eat in Córdoba
The Güemes Neighbourhood, near Paseo de las Artes, has a few nice restaurants, and it is a nice, quiet part of town. Beside it, Arroyo Cañada (Ravine Stream) is a nice place for an after-dinner walk with large trees framing the water. You can also find quite a few restaurants on the pedestrian streets in the city’s downtown, but most were closed on a Sunday. We can recommend El Nazareno for their excellent coffee and alfajores cookies.
When to visit
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) provide the best opportunities for good weather. The rainy season is from December to March, which is when we visited, and we experienced heavy rain.
Getting to Córdoba
Flights from many Argentine cities, and a few international ones, arrive at the Ingeniero Aeronáutico Ambrosio L.V. Taravella International Airport (COR), 15 km from the city centre. The more common way to arrive in Córdoba is by bus, but expect long trips from cities such as Mendoza (12 hours), Buenos Aires (10 hours), La Rioja (6 hours), and Salta (12 hours). The city’s two bus terminals (Terminal de Ómnibus) are located on the same block, not far from the city centre.
You can find Córdoba in the centre of the map. It is an interactive map, so you can zoom-in or click on a marker to find a link to that region.
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Coming Next – Explore Los Colorados: A Hidden Gem Near La Rioja
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