If you’re looking for a beach vacation without tall skyscrapers and high-end resorts, then Puerto Escondido in Oaxaca State, is the place for you. Although known as a surf destination, it is home to a variety of beaches ranging from calm and isolated to busy, big-wave surf beaches. Here’s a guide to help you plan your visit to Mexico’s Puerto Escondido.
Zicatela Beach
The most well-known beach in Puerto Escondido is Zicatela. Its huge waves have the nickname Mexican Pipeline. Long tube-shaped waves form just offshore and look like they unravel for the entire length of this 4 kilometer long beach. Even if you don’t surf, it’s an impressive display of nature to witness.
There is a strong rip-tide so it is not a swimming beach. If you’re looking for entertainment at night, the streets above the beach are host to a large selection of pubs and dance bars.
Playa Principal
Favoured by families, Playa Principal is right next door. It is really an extension of Zicatela, in the large curved bay, but the waves are much more gentle. On the street above this beach is a busy night market.
Fishing boats bob in the water at the rocky end of Playa Principal. That wasn’t the only indication that the fishing is good here. First we saw a sign for a marlin fishing contest, then we saw a fisherman walk from his boat carrying a marlin across his shoulders. The fish was almost as big as him.
Malecón
From Playa Principal, a rugged pathway climbs up and down between the next few coves. It’s difficult to still call it a malecón (boardwalk) though, because that would imply an easy walk. This pathway has been beaten up by the waves and at times was missing key sections forcing you to scramble over granite boulders. You are still able to continue but, if you do, be prepared to rough it a little. For us, it was worth it because it took us to small hidden gems that we wouldn’t have found otherwise.
Angelito & Manzanillo Beaches
A few blocks from downtown are the twin beaches, Playa Angelito and Playa Manzanillo. They are extremely picturesque, set in a small rock-bound cove. At one end the rocks form small pools where people like to soak.
We visited on a Wednesday afternoon in May and it was quite busy. No doubt because of the calmer waters here than at Principal and Zicatela Beaches.
Carrizalillo Beach
The last beach we visited is the prettiest in the region. The view from above is like a picture postcard with a lush green backdrop and jagged rocks shaping the sides of the small cove. A long staircase makes it a little easier to reach Playa Carrizalillo, 30 m below, and it is worth every step.
It’s also a surfing beach but, this one is preferred by beginners since its waves are not as intense as Zicatela’s. In fact, some of the waves seemed to be a little crowded with a few different lessons going on in the water.
The shape of the bay causes the waves to make interesting formations as they make their final crash on the sand. They look as though the waves stop mid roll. We had fun watching these interesting patterns as they tossed around the bathers.
The beach was quite busy, but with the crystal clear water and beautiful views, you can’t blame everyone for choosing this beach. Behind the sand are several palapas (thatched-roof huts) renting sunbeds and selling food and drink.
Safety in Puerto Escondido
Oaxaca is the 4th poorest state in the country and that is reflected in the towns. Puerto Escondido is a little rough around the edges. The better neighborhoods are close to the beaches, but only a few blocks away from them, the homes are ramshackled and streets are littered in garbage. Don’t stray too far away from the beaches, especially at night and don’t flash money or jewelry.
Where to stay in Puerto Escondido
Where you stay in Puerta Escondido will depend on the type of vacation you want. The party bars and hotels are beside Zicatela Beach. Older and only slightly less noisy is the area above Principal Beach. The community above Playas Angelito and Manzanillo is walking distance to all of the beaches and is a quiet residential area. More luxurious accommodations are found near Playa Carrizalillo.
How to get to Puerto Escondido
Puerto Escondido has a busy international airport that makes it easy to access. It’s a popular spot for Canadians who flock here in the winter months. As well, there are two bus stations connecting it to Oaxaca City, Acapulco and others. Make sure you know which bus station your bus departs from.
Best time to visit
The best weather will be from January to March and November/December. Temperatures will be in the low 30°s C early in the year and rising to high 30°s C by April and May. June to October are the rainy months. We visited in May and it was unbearably hot. The best waves for surfers are between March and October.
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Coming Next – Experience History in Oaxaca
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