As one of the most famous Maya cities, Chichen Itza had high expectations to live up to and we’re pleased to say that it did just that. From its grand pyramid to its delicately decorated buildings, Chichen Itza is a wonderful site to explore.
Originally founded by the Maya Itza people in the 5th century, Chichen Itza grew to become one of the largest Mayan cities of its time. As it gained prominence, cities to the south began to decline. It’s not known definitively that these events are related, but it is assumed that they are.
The Toltecs arrived in Chichen Itza in the 900s and remained until 1250. Surprisingly little is known about the Toltec people. Some researchers believe they conquered the Itza, while others say it was a symbiotic relationship. As a result, the city’s earlier buildings depict Mayan images and techniques, but the newer ones display influences from the Toltecs.
There are a lot of buildings to see in Chichen Itza so it is well worth a visit. Here are some of the most interesting and best preserved or restored.
El Castillo
Taking centre stage is the main pyramid of the city. Also called Temple of Kukulcan, the 30 meter (98 ft) tall pyramid does look like a castle in the middle of an open field. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, El Castillo has 4 sets of 91 steps for a total of 364 steps. If you include the last step to the platform, it makes 365; the number of days in a year. This is likely not a coincidence since the Maya were known to have calculated accurate calendars.
Kukulcan is the main deity of the Yucatan Mayas. Represented as a plumed or feathered serpent, the deity is called Quetzalcoatl in other Mesoamerican cultures. It was likely introduced to the Maya by the Toltec people around the 10th century. The Mayas adopted the deity and called it Kukulcan. In Maya culture, Kukulcan became very important as the creator god who connects the physical world with the spiritual world. This is another example of how much exchange there was between the Mesoamerican cultures. We saw a different version on the feathered serpent in Teotihuacan. You can see that image here.
Kukulcan can be found on many of the buildings in Chichén Itza, but the largest is on this temple. At the base of the north staircase are two large snake head carvings. It is said that at sunset during spring and fall equinoxes, shadows give the effect that the snake is descending down the stone balustrade.
These shadows were part of an elaborate ceremony presided over by the priests. On the evening of an equinox, the courtyard in front would have been filled with spectators. The priests performed rituals to display their power and claimed that the deity Kukulcan will come down to earth that day. And then, when the shadow fell on the staircase, the spectators would believe it was Kukulcan, descending to earth.
We weren’t there on the equinox, but have included a picture from MayanPeninsula.com so you can see the effect. Think of the planning that was required to make this work.
As is often the case in Maya pyramids, this one was built atop two others and inside was a jade-covered throne, human remains and a statue of Chac Mool.
Sacred Cenote
If you walk in the direction that the snake heads are pointing you will reach the Sacred Cenote. Cenotes are natural deep-water wells filled by underground rivers that run throughout much of Yucatan. Most are exposed as cenotes when their limestone roof collapses. Cenotes have been revered by the Mayan people for centuries. Not only were they a source of fresh water, but it was believed that they were a door to the underworld. Cenotes were therefore often the site for offerings and sacrifices.
The name Chichen Itza means ‘at the mouth of the well’ in the Itza language. The city was likely located on this spot because of the Sacred Cenote. Recent discoveries suggest that there may be an underground river between this cenote and El Castillo.
We dove in some cenotes and underground rivers in Tulum. You can read about our cenote dives here.
Great Ball Court
Ball Game courts are found in almost every pre-colonial Mesoamerican city. The rules differed from region to region, but many aspects were the same. The game used a medium sized rubber ball that could only be touched by the legs, arms and hips. The rubber balls were made out of latex from rubber trees mixed with juice from the vines of morning glory plants. They couldn’t be left on the ground in the sun or the balls would lose their round shape. They carved rounded cups into stone to house the balls.
It was actually more of a vicious ritual than it was a sport. City leaders would play against captive enemy warriors who were injured or bound in some way that would ensure they lose. At the end of the game these enemies would be sacrificed to the gods.
At 90 meters long by 30 meters wide, the court in Chichen Itza is the largest stadium in Mesoamerica. The back walls of two temples formed the boundary walls of the court. It must have been difficult to score because the hoops were hung very high on these temple walls.
Dozens of reliefs are carved into the lower section of the walls. They depict scenes from the game as well as some of the sacrificial killings. It’s really a fantastic sports arena.
Nunnery Complex
By far the prettiest group of buildings in the entire city are in the Nunnery Complex. As one of the older Mayan constructions, you can see the resemblance between these buildings and some we saw in Uxmal. These were also built in the Puuc architecture style and are adorned with skillfully crafted details. Masks of Maya rain god Chaac hang from the corners, while other animals, deities and geometric shapes decorate the walls. When the Spanish arrived, they thought it looked like a nunnery. In reality it was likely a government complex or palace.
Astronomical Observatory
With a tall, rounded tower on top, this unique building was a blend of Maya and Toltec architecture. The Astronomical Observatory is called El Caracol (snail) in Spanish because of the unique circular tower.
Platforms of Venus; Skulls; and Eagle & Jaguars
Three platforms located between the ball court and El Castillo were likely used for ceremonies, speeches and even dance performances. They all have detailed carvings around their bases, many of which can still be seen after so many centuries.
Interesting ones to find were the reliefs of the animals holding human hearts in their claws and paws on Eagles and Jaguars Platform. The neighbouring Platform of the Skulls has much eerier decorations. Hundreds of skull carvings cover the base of this platform. Even more gruesome, tall posts would be set up on the stage to display the skulls of their enemies.
Beside Platform of Venus is a weathered statue of Chac Mool. This figure is not from Maya traditions and is believed to have been brought by the Toltecs. Chac Mool is thought to be a slain warrior and was used to hold sacrifice offerings. The first picture below is the statue we saw in Chichen Itza, the second is from the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
How to get to Chichen Itza
There are many tours offered to Chichen Itza from Valladolid, Mérida, and many tourist centres in the Yucatan Peninsula. It’s also easy to visit on your own from Valladolid. Public buses run hourly (on the half hour) between the ADO bus station in Valladolid and the archeological site. One block away you can find colectivos (shared mini-buses) that leave each hour on the hour. The drive is 45-60 minutes.
Valladolid
The nearest access to Chichen Itza is the colonial town of Valladolid. It’s a cute town with flat roofed, row houses that come right up to the sidewalk. Many have unique features above their windows and most are painted in bright, cheery colours.
Some of the homes are in need of some TLC, but it’s one of the nicer Pueblo Magicos we’ve visited and a good city to use as a base to visit the ruins.
Tip – There are hundreds of Pueblo Magicos in Mexico. It’s a marketing term to generate tourism in the towns. Don’t assume because it’s a Pueblo Magico that you will find it magical.
The main plaza, Francisco Canton Park used to be the site of a large Mayan pyramid. As often happened, the Spanish tore it down to build Church of Saint Servatius, city hall and a few other buildings around the plaza. In the centre of the square is a fountain with a state of La Mestiza (Mixed Race Woman).
The park is a festive place to be at night when locals, dressed in traditional costumes, perform dances. There are more people in the square at night than in the middle of the day when temperatures are very high.
The largest church in the city is the impressive 16th century Convent of San Bernadino de Siena. When it was in use, it was the second largest Franciscan convent in the Yucatan after San Antonio de Padua Convent in Izamal. The church still holds Sunday service and there is a small museum inside with information on the convent’s history.
Getting to Valladolid
The town of Valladolid is located 150 km from the state capital Mérida, and 150 km from Tulum. Although Valladolid has an airport, it is easier to fly into Mérida or Tulum. If you’re already in Yucatan, Valladolid is well connected to the rest of the peninsula via ADO Bus. The bus station is located near the historic centre.
Where to Eat and Stay in Valladolid
The city centre is very safe and is where most restaurants are located. There aren’t a lot of large chain hotels, but there is a good selection of locally run accommodations. Try to stay within walking distance of Francisco Canton Park.
Tip– Valladolid and Mérida are on MST. Whereas the rest of Yucatan Peninsula is on CST.
To read more of our adventures in Mexico, click here.
Coming Next – Diving In Cozumel
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