The town of Pai is a small, laid-back hippie hangout in the mountains of northern Thailand. Along its edge, the slow moving Pai River adds to its charm. Mountain activities range from river rafting in Lod Cave to visiting waterfalls. No matter which you chose you’ll have a great time if you travel to Pai.

Pai, Thailand is located 150 Km northwest of Chiang Mai in the midde of the Northern Highlands. The highway from Chiang Mai is a winding, narrow road with over 770 sharp switchbacks as it climbs up and down the mountains. We had heard many stories from other travellers of how bad the road is and how fast the minibuses race around the corners. They warned that many passengers will get car sick. It didn’t sound like an enjoyable ride, but we decided to go anyway. Either those stories are a few years old or we lucked out with good drivers both to and from Pai. Our drive wasn’t as bad as the reputation, and no one was sick.

When we finally arrived, main street welcomed us with funky coffee shops and casual restaurants. The street sets the tone for the town. In the evening main street is closed to traffic when it becomes a huge night market.

Lod Cave

An hour outside of Pai is the large Lod Cave. It is over 1.6 km long (1 mile) with many different high-ceilinged caverns filled with elaborate stalactites and stalagmites. Our guide shone his light on the formations so we could see them better. We had fun trying to see different objects in their unique features.

The tour begins on foot. We walked through a few large chambers, over bridges, up stairs and through narrow passages.

After walking through a few large chambers, we came to the river’s edge. Nam Lang River runs through the cave and prevented us from walking further. Our next transport was a bamboo raft. A guide steered the raft with a long pole and took us deeper into the cave. Rafting on the river was a nice, peaceful way to travel.

Deep inside Lod Cave, we arrived at Coffin Cave. It received its name because there are remnants of teak coffins, scattered in the cavern. They are believed to be thousands of years old.

After Coffin Cave, the bamboo rafts took us to a large exit. It was beautiful to see the green jungle bursting around the large cave opening.

There are a few waterfalls in the area. We were supposed to go canyoning at Mar Paeng Waterfall like Richard did near Chiang Mai but it was too cold. In fact no one in our group was tempted by the perfect slide.

Pai Canyon

It’s touted as being Thailand’s Grand Canyon but that description raises your expectations too high. Pai Canyon is not really even a canyon, but it is an interesting rock feature. Not far from Pai a sandstone mountain eroded over many years leaving narrow spiny ridges with steep sides. There are sandy pathways along the tops of the spines allowing you to walk along the features. We went to see the canyon at sunset since it’s supposed to be spectacular. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperating and we didn’t see the sunset.

White Buddha

Within walking distance of Pai is a large White Buddha statue, high on a hill. Over 300 steps takes you to the top where the statue over looks the valley. There is a small temple, Wat Phra That Mae Yen, behind Buddha. If there are clear skies the site offers excellent views. For us however, the thick clouds kept the views a secret.

Getting around Pai

Pai has interesting taxis for short trips. Instead of tuk tuks or cars, passengers ride on a motorcycle sidecar. They didn’t always feel stable, but they’re not intended for long trips on the winding mountain roads.

Getting to Pai

Mini-buses depart from Arcade Station in Chiang Mai (3 hrs). Tickets can be purchased from hotels/ guesthouses and travel agencies (150-180 baht), or directly at the bus station (150 baht). Large buses also make the trip, but they take over 5 hours and are not recommended.

Click on the link to read our Travel Guide for Thailand.

Coming Next – Extravagant Buddhist Temples in Chiang Rai

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Fediverse reactions

62 responses to “Pai, Thailand’s Mountain Town”

  1. Looks like we missed some things there, but then we passed through approx. 35 years ago. We had been in Mae Hong Son (where we saw women with “long necks”) and then took a bus to Pai for a stopover on the way to Chiang Mai. Reading your post, I see that they have developed the area quite a bit for tourism in the meantime. Doubt whether I will make it back there, but certainly enjoy reading about it in your post.

    1. Yes it was probably just a few farmhouses 35 years ago. It has been built up a lot for tourism but it’s low-key, mom and pop guest houses not high end resorts and hotels so they still didn’t get overwhelmed by tourists. The town and the people are probably suffering now though.

      1. Actually it was already on the trail of many backpackers at that time. There were a few nice, simple guesthouses. I believe we rented a motorbike to travel around there, but I can’t remember much despite a few photos taken at the time. And then I am not sure which ones were taken in and around Mae Hong Son and which ones in Pai. I do remember that the boat rides we took in Mae Hong Son went to villages with women with long necks, so tourism was already being developed there although not many backpackers made it there at the time.

  2. Great post. Looks like an interesting area that has made the best of their tourism opportunities. A great way to see a cave. Given my claustrophobia, I might even be able to handle something like this. What would our local road safety authorities think of the motorcycle taxis? Thanks for sharing. Allan

    1. Thanks Allan, this was a very fun cave and only a few spots felt right. The taxis were pretty scary around corners but thankfully we only went a few blocks in one:) Maggie

  3. Wow, I would love that cave experience! And beautiful views of the canyon … looks like a great outing!

    1. Pai was a lot of fun, we love the cave, even though it was quite busy, it was so big we often didn’t see other groups. The canyon is quite pretty, not at all what we were expecting for a canyon, but still pretty. Maggie

  4. We like the look of Pai, so glad to hear you had a good driver and had no incidents. Lod cave looks amazing and those rafts looks fun, would definitely want to do that if we ever visit that region.

    1. Pai is a great little town. There are a lot of tourists, but it’s still very laid back. Lod Cave was great and such a fun thing to do. Maggie

  5. Nice work guys, I also loved Pai and have not yet published my adventures there. The White Buddha is really beautiful, especially in your shot from a distance where it’s nestled in the greenery.

    1. Thanks Leighton, it’s a fun little town isnt’ it? I loved The White Buddha sitting high up on the hill. It was a nice walk to it as well.

  6. What a wonderful combination of things to see there! The cave sounds incredible, especially with the boats

    1. Thanks Claire, the cave was really fun, especially to be led around on a bamboo raft. It was definitlelly unique 🙂

  7. Really interesting photos Maggie, especially the cave images – so other worldly!

    1. Thank you Helene, that’s a good descriptor, it really was other worldly 🙂

  8. Lod Caves looks like quite the adventure, especially the part of the tour that involves a bamboo raft!

    1. It was so much fun! They’re not too sturdy, but the river is slow moving and not very deep. A great way to see a cave 🙂

  9. looks like an enchanting Thai town! and cooler!

    1. It’s much cooler, even cold which seems odd for Thialand.

  10. Wow, just look at the size of that cave with the river that runs through the centre and those wonderful rock formations! Were there any bats or other living creatures, too? I’d say it was a really exciting feeling venturing further into the caves with nothing more than the guides and a gas lamp. Thanks for sharing and have a nice day, Maggie 🙂 Aiva xxx

    1. It’s a massive cave and a fun place to explore especially by raft. We didn’t see bats in this cave or thankfully anything that would eat bats. There may be some further in as we didn’t get to the end of it. Thanks for reading Aiva! Maggie

  11. This is so awesome!! Saving this post! Cheers!

    1. Thank you! Pai is a great little spot!

  12. I loved Pai when I visited but the journey there is definitely not for the faint hearted!

    1. Haha, well the drive wasn’t too bad for us.

  13. Looks absolutely wonderful!!

    1. Yes, it’s a great little mountain town. Never expected it in Thailand 😉

  14. To be honest, I have never heard of Pai, before. In my region, Thailand is best known for beaches and that’s where most people head. Not many people visit Chiang Mai from India. One of the reasons is that India has similar teerain in some parts of the country. Most travelers seek novelty, hence beaches rule along with cities like Bangkok.

    1. Yes, for us too, I think most people go to Thailand for the beaches. This was a nice retreat from the heat 🙂

      1. Great. A lot of people from the western hemisphere choose Chiang Mai because of its unique jungle topography

        1. Yes but also because it’s easy and feels familiar with the weatern restaurants and cafes etc. 😊

          1. I’m not surprised. 🙂

  15. I love the white Buddha. It’s so striking against the greenery.

  16. It never occurred to me that Thailand has mountains… I guess I just never thought about it before. I love how many off the beaten path places you guys find, it’s so nice to see beyond the main tourist destinations.

    1. It was great to have the time to find all of these places. The mountains were more hills than mountains, but it was such a different atmosphere and climate to the beach towns. You’d love Pai 🙂

  17. The water trip through the cave looks fascinating.

    1. Yes, it was really fun, definitely a unique way to see a cave 🙂

  18. The caves must have been an amazing experience.

    1. It was more fun than I expected. Sitting on a bamboo raft in the dark was something I’ll probabay never have the opportunity to do again 🙂

  19. Wow – I LOVE those caves!

    1. Yes it was awesome! A different way to travel in a cave for sure 🙂 Maggie

  20. I do not know if I will ever be able to visit Thailand, and for this I thank you for your posts that are introducing me to that wonderful country

    1. There are many incredible places in Thailand, thanks for coming with us on this trip 🙂 Maggie

      1. 🙏🌏🙏🌏🙏🌏🙏

  21. So beautiful. Are things opening up there?

    1. We’re not in Thailand, this was from a couple of years ago.

      1. got it.. just wondered if you knew any details.. I’m excited to visit when the timing is right💖

        1. I’m wondering the same! ☺️

          1. hmmmm.. thanks❣️

  22. A great post! It’s a wonderful place but, as you say, it used to be no mean journey to get there! 🙂

    1. Yes the rumours of the drive were awful but it wasn’t too bad for us. We’ve definitely been on worse roads.😊

  23. Pai was my favourite stop in northern Thailand. That was in ’91 and I’m glad to hear that it is still laid-back and relatively peaceful (no funky coffee shops back then). I remember our horrible mini van ride. The back of the van was open and some local guy who had fallen asleep accidentally fell out of the moving van. He was badly bruised and scratched up, but no one seemed overly bothered by it (brush yourself off and get on on our way). Other than that, we had a wonderful few days there.I wonder whether the cave was open back then? Looks amazing!

    1. Yikes what a ride, but doesn’t really surprise me! Pai has definitely kept its relaxed vibe, at least compared to most Thai tourist spots. The cave was great and such a fun way to see it. How are you making out in the heat? It was 42C today. Wow.

      1. OMG, heat has been unbearable but at least it broke (for us) last night. We passed through Lytton (the record breaking temp town) on Sunday, on our way back from Mt Robson. Never experienced anything like it even in all my travels to hot places. Thankfully we finished our Berg Lake hike before it really heated up. Will write about it soon…awesome! Heard you guys have a few more days of heat to endure. Hope you have a place to stay cool.

        1. Can’t wait to read about Berg Lake, we haven’t done that yet, but it’s on our list almost every year. We went for a hike yesterday in Banff, I know very silly. When we got back to our car it said 42C! I’ve never seen that before in Canada and certainly not in Banff! We still have a few more days of it. Lytton would be unbearable.

  24. Fascinating trip through the caves, and the ancient coffins, what history there. I didn’t get that far north in Thailand, but it looks like a great spot.

    1. It was a great cave trip, fun and a little history too. Northern Thailand isn’t as popular but there’s a lot to see. Obviously it’s quite different from the south and the islands. Thanks for reading Ruth! Maggie

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  26. Went to Thailand 5 times but honestly, I have never heard about Pai Town.
    Your rafting experience is really looking cool!

    1. Pai is a great place! It’s an hour or so from Chiang Mai, and has a lot of mountain activities. Think about it for your next trip 🙂

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