When we first stepped into Sibiu’s historic square, we were delighted by the elegant historic buildings around its edge. We thought this was the main square and were pleased with what we found. After walking through a covered passage we emerged into an even grander space. The large, main square is like a museum with perfectly arranged, beautifully restored buildings. Upon seeing these two plazas, we knew then that we would love discovering medieval Sibiu.
In the 12th century the King of Hungary sent Saxons to settle the lands of Transylvania. Known as the ‘Transylvanian Saxons’, many became wealthy and built elaborate homes, churches and town squares. This wealth meant that they were easy targets and so many of the Saxon cities were fortified. Sibiu was one of the wealthiest of those cities and today what was left behind are beautiful heritage buildings that show the grandeur that this city once had. It’s easy to see how prosperous this city once was with the elegant buildings in Upper Old Town.
To see more of these Romanian fortified cities visit our posts Explore Brașov’s Old Town, Fortified City of Sighișoara and Transylvania’s Fortified Churches.
Great Square
The place to begin your exploration of this wonderful Old Town is the main plaza, Piața Mare (Great Square) in Upper Town. This large, open plaza is breathtaking; fringed by beautifully restored, grand buildings. Patios spill out on to the square, but they barely make a dent in the open space. Generations ago, markets would have been set up in the middle of the square, but today all of the shops are contained in the pretty historic buildings. Two excellent examples are Brukenthal Palace and the attached Blue House.
The unmissable building on the edge of the square is Council Tower. You can climb up the narrow, stone steps to the top of the cream coloured tower for a bird’s eye view of Old Town. Built in 1241, the tower is attached to Old City Hall. It was restored in 1588 after the top collapsed.
Small Square
At the base of the tower is a covered passageway. Walk through it to reach Piaţa Mică (Small Square). It is a smaller version of grand square, but no less picturesque. It is so pretty that this is the square we first thought was the main square.
Upper Old Sibiu
Cobblestone streets branch out from these plazas, in a haphazard fashion. You won’t mind getting lost in the maze of Upper Old Sibiu though. It’s the perfect place to take a stroll and immerse yourself in its history.
The medieval buildings are in great condition and have their own unique style. If you look closely you can see eyes on many of them.
In addition to the one under Council Tower, there are many other small passages throughout Old Town. Sometimes they provide the only way to get between streets, adding to the mystery of this town. Some of these passages lead to stairs that mark the border between the wealthy Upper Town and working-class Lower Town. In many of them you can feel its history seeping through the walls.
Lower Old Sibiu
The homes in Lower Old Town are not as elegant, but they are still in remarkable condition. It is as much fun to explore these streets as it is in Upper Old Town.
The pretty streets in Sibiu have a different feel at night. Long shadows emerge from corners. Old walls feel like they are closing in. Shadows form unfamiliar shapes. The buildings and passages seem to be the perfect shape to let your imagination go wild. Dark alleys look to be hiding something just out of sight. Our minds would conjure up images of Dracula behind each corner. Of course it is perfectly safe, but it’s easy to let your imagination wander.
Towers
The city was once fortified and on the edge of Old Town are a few remnants of the wall that used to surround it. Along the wall we found a few archetypical medieval towers.
Churches
Separated by only a few blocks are three churches with three very different looks. Walking between these three you can see the different styles used in the buildings as well as the interior decor. Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church (18th century) is a Viennese Baroque church with a pretty, pink interior. A block away, the 14th century Lutheran Cathedral has a stoic, gothic exterior. It was originally built as a Roman Catholic church, but was changed to Lutheran when the congregation converted. Its interior was under renovation, but it looked to be quite plain inside.
The final church is Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral. It was built in 1902 in neo-Byzantine style with two spires and a large domed roof. The semi-circle stained glass lintel gives it a unique look. It was Sunday when we visited and service was taking place. Unlike many churches in Canada, the sanctuary was full of parishioners.
When visiting Orthodox churches throughout Romania and Bulgaria we had noticed that the sanctuaries were open rooms with only a few seates around the sides. There were very few if any pews. At this service there also were no chairs and most parishioners stood; men on the right, women on the left.
Not far from Piata Mica is the pedestrian-only Bridge of Lies. We thought there would be a great legend to go with this bridge but in fact the name is the result of a translation error. It was named Liegenbrücke which means lying bridge. It was named so because it has no supporting pillars. It has nothing to do with lies.
Sibiu is a great historical town to explore, but now we are ready to see what the towns have in northern Romania have to offer.
How to get to Sibiu
Located on the well maintained highway between it and Brașov, it is an easy drive between the two cities. To reach Sibiu from Bucharest, take the Transfăgărășan Highway. Called one of the best drives in the world, it is more than just a highway, but a destination on its own. Note that Transfăgărășan is only open from late June until late October or early November. You can read our post about this drive on our post Driving The Transfăgărășan.
If you don’t have a car you can take the train from Bucharest. It is a slower option than driving though. Trains leave Bucharest’s North Railway Station (Gara de Nord) destined for Sibiu.
Where to stay and eat in Sibiu
On the streets in and around Old Town there are many small and large hotels, guesthouses and apartments available. It would be a shame to visit this beautiful city and not stay in its historic centre. The city is very walkable and safe, even after dark. You’ll most likely want to eat at one of the outdoor patios in either Piața Mare or Piaţa Mică.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Sibiu.
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Coming Next – Romania’s Painted Monasteries
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