Telavi has a picture-perfect setting, high on a ridge above the fertile Alazani Valley and in the shadows of the mighty Caucasus Mountains. As the capital of Kakheti, Telavi isn’t as often visited by tourists, but with its downtown fortress and collection of pretty heritage buildings, we don’t understand why. We had a great time exploring the historic sites found both in the city and in the surrounding valley. Let us show you what you will find in Telavi.
Batonis Castle
Sitting in the middle of the city, is its most prominent monument. The tall crenelated walls surrounding Batonis Castle (Batonis Tsikhe) were recently restored, and give you an idea of how imposing this fortress once was. The castle’s name translates in English to Castle of the Lord because it was the primary residence of Kakheti kings throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.
There’s a nice pathway that allows you to stroll beside the many towers and gates of the old stone walls. Even though it is near a busy road, this area always felt serene. It is a popular place for locals to go for walks or relax on one of the many park benches.
The main entrance to the castle is through a wonderful old gate. But before you reach it, you can’t help but notice the strange Soviet-era statue of a lady holding grapes. It is titled Wine Harvest and is a reminder that Telavi is in wine country.
Once you pass through the imposing main gate, the castle loses its stately feel. Inside the walls, you’ll find a large grassy field with only the remnants of buildings that once filled it. Its best features are the towers and an old bathhouse, but it is mostly devoid of buildings. There is no entry free into this open space.
Telavi History Museum
One of the main reasons to enter through the castle gate is to visit the Telavi History Museum. The underground building sits in the middle of the castle grounds. The museum is quite small, but displays a selection of artefacts from the Bronze Age up to the 19th century. Most of which were found in the area.
Entrance – 7GEL (€2.20); Opening Hours – 10 am to 6 pm, closed Mondays
King Erekle II Palace
Included in the museum ticket is entrance to King Erekle II Palace, also located within the castle walls. From the outside, the palace is a rather plain brick building. It lacks the grandeur of most palaces we’ve seen.
Inside, though, it takes on a different personality. The halls and rooms are filled with colour as light streams in through the stained-glass windows. They look to be made in a similar way to the Shebeke Glass we saw in Sheki, Azerbaijan, but we couldn’t find any information on them.
Another noticeable foreign influence was the horseshoe shape on a few of the windows and doorways. We didn’t see these anywhere else in Georgia. The Kakheti region was under Persian and Ottoman control for a while, which may explain the origins of these designs.
Most of the rooms have been restored, but a few still show the palace’s age with exposed, timeworn stone on the upper walls and ceiling. A few rooms have furniture, but most of the palace is unfurnished.
Although lived in by previous royal families, it’s named for King Erekle II because he significantly altered the layout and design of the building.
Beside the palace is a small, stone chapel and single nave brick church. Neither have been restored, and their old walls look like they have many stories to tell.
King Erekle II Statue
In front of the castle is a large statue of King Erekle II on his horse. King Erekle II was a beloved king in the 18th century for his role in reuniting the two kingdoms of Kakheti and Kartli. Even though he gained Georgia’s independence from Persia, he ultimately sought Russia’s protection from the Persian and the Ottoman Empires. This action led to the country falling under Russia’s protectorate.
Great Plane Tree
Not far from the statue is a tall, 900 year old plane tree (sycamore). It’s the oldest and largest tree in Georgia. Legend says that it provided a shady, contemplative spot for King Erkle II. It explains that he used to sit under the tree when sorting out problems and devising tactical solutions. Since it’s just below the palace, it is possible that the legend is true.
In the same park, we found an unusual piece of street art. Built from everyday items, the piece represents a snail family. Apparently, it is nice at night when illuminated, but we didn’t see it lit up.
Painted Balconies
If you stick to the main streets, you may think that Telavi’s historic centre isn’t worth a visit. There are many new buildings sitting between its heritage ones, making them look less appealing. But don’t worry, we were able to find a few areas in town where the old buildings have room to shine. Similar to Sighnaghi, Telavi has many brick homes with painted balconies. In Telavi, these balconies and houses are much larger, more fitting of a bigger city. The best place to find them is on Bidzina Cholokashvili St., west of St Mariam’s Church.
You can read about Sighnaghi in our post Visiting Sighnaghi – Georgia’s Wine Region.
You can find more of these wonderful balconies as well as other 19th century stone and brick houses if you explore the community beside the King Erekle II statue.
There are a few streets in Telavi that show another influence in its history. King Erekle II Street has a few nice, old Russian buildings now used by local businesses, banks, and the post office.
If you like old fortresses, there’s a second one in the city above the Old Town. Only a block off King Erekle II St, is the 18th century Vakhvakhishvilis’ Fortress. It was originally built for Princess Vakhvakhishvilis, but today only a section of its wall remains.
Fountains
As with many Georgian cities, there are quite a few fountains in Telavi. Locals use them to collect water for drinking and cooking. We saw street dogs and cats using them, so we weren’t sure how well our stomachs would tolerate it. Royal Fountain, in front of the castle, is the prettiest. Most of them aren’t this cute.
Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord
On top of one of Telavi’s many hill is Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord. Despite being in the middle of the large city, the 5-6th century building has a very tranquil setting.
Wine tasting
Kakheti is the largest wine region in Georgia, so if you didn’t visit a winery in Sighnaghi, there is ample opportunity to visit one one in Telavi. You can find many Maranis, (wine cellars) in the city centre and in the Alazani Valley below.
How to get to Telavi
From Tbilisi, marshrutkas leave from Ortachala Marshrutka Station, and share-taxis leave from outside Isani Metro station. Marshrutkas leave every hour on the hour. To travel between Telavi and Sighnaghi, be aware that there is only one marshrutka a day. It leaves at 9:30 am, every day except Sunday.
Telavi is often the jumping off point to the remote mountain communities of Tusheti. To get between the two, you should either hire a private driver in Telavi or catch a share-4×4 in Zemo Alvani, located 25 km outside of Telavi. You can read about Tusheti in our post Driving to Tusheti in Georgia’s Remote North.
You can find Telavi in the middle of the map below. It is an interactive map, so you can zoom-in, or click on a marker to find a link to our post from that region.
Where to eat in Telavi
There are a few restaurants located close to the castle. Kapiloni Restaurant was our favourite place in town for Georgian food. It was always busy with locals and tourists so others must agree with us.
Where to stay in Telavi
The city is not that large, but it is hilly. These hills may affect your decision more than anything else. A guesthouse on Bidzina Cholokashvili St would be a great choice. If not on this street you can still find many locally run guesthouses within walking distance of the castle. You can also find a few international chain hotels directly across from the castle.
How to get around in Telavi
The historic centre is not large, so you can walk between the sites and most hotels/guesthouses and restaurants. To travel further, there are several taxis in the city centre. Apparently there is Bolt, but there doesn’t seem to be many cars. We were never able to secure a ride with Bolt.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Telavi.
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Coming Next – Touring Kakheti’s Historic Monasteries
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