When flying internationally, many people have a connecting flight through Frankfurt. When this happens to us, we usually just waste a few hours at the airport before catching a flight to our primary destination. On this trip, though, we chose a different approach. We decided to spend a few days in Frankfurt to explore its historic centre, as well as the nearby cities of Heidelberg and Mainz, and we are so glad that we did. It turns out that there’s a lot to see in Frankfurt’s Altstadt (Old Town), and it deserves more than a quick stopover.
Here’s what you can see when you explore Frankfurt’s Old Town. While in Frankfurt, why not take a day trip to either Heidelberg or Mainz or both. Click on the links to see our posts from those charming towns.
While it isn’t an authentic Old Town, Frankfurt’s Altstadt is a captivating re-creation of the city’s medieval days. Its history dates back to ancient times, but in the Middle Ages, it became a major economic centre. During this era, the fortified city was filled with half-timbered houses packed tightly together along winding streets. This lovely centre was almost completely flattened at the end of WWII, but today it has been completely rebuilt. Even though the reconstruction is very recent, we think they did a great job in bringing the old centre back to life.
Römerberg Square
Begin your exploration of Frankfurt’s historic centre in Römerberg Square. Surrounding the public space are charming half-timbered houses that look straight from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Fountain of Justice
In the centre of the square is the Fountain of Justice (Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen), which features a statue of Lady Justice. The fountain has enjoyed a prominent place at many coronations over its long history.
Old St. Nicholas Church
Also on the square is the lovely early Gothic Old Nicholas Church. Surprisingly, it suffered relatively little damage in the 1940s bombings, so it is one of the few original buildings in Old Frankfurt.
House Wertheym
Another building that miraculously survived the bombings is House Wertheym, making it the oldest half-timbered house in Frankfurt. Its top-heavy upper floors and steep sloping roof were typical of the homes in the day.
City Hall
The star of the large square is The Römer, where its distinctive Gothic three-gabled roof steals the show. The building is still part of the Rathaus, which must make it one of the prettiest City Halls around.
As the city grew, so did its City Hall (Römer). The back of the complex has even more interesting features than its front, such as the Bridge of Sighs that connects two of its wings. We also found a lot of detailed ornamentation on this side, as well as the cute Langer Franz Tower.
Frankfurt Cathedral
A few blocks away from Römerberg Square is the magnificent Frankfurt Cathedral (Kaiserdom or Imperial Cathedral of St. Bartholomew). The church is not an actual cathedral, but is called one because of its ties to Frankfurt’s history, including being the site of several kings’ coronations in the Middle Ages. Originally built in the 1300s as a Catholic church, it was shared by Catholic and Lutheran congregations for a short time. The church is dedicated to St Bartholomew, because its treasury houses a relic of the saint’s skull.
Inside, the nave’s tall red pillars and Gothic arched ceiling match the building’s grandeur, but unlike many cathedrals we’ve visited around the world, this one is sparsely decorated.
Allied bombings at the end of WWII almost flattened the building, so that today, only sections of its outer walls are original. When it was rebuilt, architects ensured that the new structure adhered to the original design, which featured many steeples and towering spires. One of those reconstructed features is its tallest tower. At 95m (312ft), it stands high above everything else. Climbing the 328 steps to the tower’s observation deck on top is one of the best parts of visiting the building. From here, your reward is a bird’s eye view of Old Town and the Main River.
From this vantage point, you can appreciate the massive size of City Hall, which sprawls over an entire city block. You will likely also notice how the historic centre transitions directly into the new buildings of the financial district.
There’s more to see in Atlstadt than Römerberg Square and the cathedral. Leave time to wander along the rebuilt streets that wind their way between these main centres. They showcase wonderful examples of the architectural styles and decorations used on these houses in the Middle Ages. Special things to watch for are the Chicken Market Square (Huhnermarkt) and the many interesting gargoyles, like the ones on the House of the Golden Scales
Due to the damage sustained during WWII, the Old Town does not slowly transition into more modern districts as you see in many cities. Instead, there is a dramatic change from historic to new. At the edge of Old Town, buildings on one side of the street look medieval, but just across the street, modern skyscrapers fill the space.
Eschersheim Tower
In the middle of these large, paved streets and new buildings, though, you can still find some historic gems. Remarkably, one of the original gates on the city wall is still standing. At 47m tall, Eschersheim Tower seems a bit out of place on the side of a busy street. Built in the early 15th century, this tall gate looks like it was taken straight from the pages of a fairy tale.
Guardroom Square
Another great find is Guardsroom Square. The former Guardroom (Hauptwache) once housed a prison, but today it is home to a cafe. Across the square from it is St. Catherine’s Church. Unfortunately, most of it was covered in construction scaffolding, but we could still enter to see its gorgeous stained glass.
Fressgass
If you want to go shopping while in Frankfurt, a great option is Fressgass pedestrian street. This high-end shopping street is located nearby, just on the edge of Old Town.
Opera Houses
At the end of Fressgass is the Old Opera House (Alte Oper) with a Renaissance-style façade. It was originally built in 1880, but this version is from the 1970s. Only a few blocks away is the new Opera House. Its glass walls make it markedly different from the old one.
Between the old and new opera houses is a lovely park that passes under the tall Main Tower. The 56-story building has an observation deck on top that you can visit.
They seem to love statues and memorials in Frankfurt. We passed several, including a statue of Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe, the Gutenberg Memorial, and even one of Beethoven that had a little extra red paint added to it. We’ll talk more about Gutenberg when we visit Mainz in a few days.
Main River
After exploring the sites of Frankfurt’s wonderful Old Town, head down to the banks of the Main River to see a few more. The Customs Tower, with a pointed roof and four turrets, is a beautiful building. It was originally used as a customs office to collect tolls for the use of the city’s river port. The tower is made even more attractive by the other buildings attached to it. They are collectively called the Saalhof ensemble and are part of the Frankfurt History Museum.
Iron Footbridge
Not only does the pedestrian bridge allow you to walk to the other side of the river, but it also offers nice views back toward the modern downtown. From the other side of the bridge, you can have another look at Customs Tower, where you’ll notice how short it is compared to the cathedral’s tallest tower.
Across the river is the picturesque Church of the Three Wisemen (Dreikönigsgemeindea).
Getting to Frankfurt’s Old Town
The easiest way to reach the historic centre from Frankfurt Airport is by train. Hauptbahnhof, shortened to Hbf (Central Train Station) is the closest station to Old Town. They leave frequently from the lower level of the airport. From Hbf you can take a taxi/Uber to Old Town; there are many taxis outside the station’s main door.
We preferred walking instead of taking a taxi. It only took about 20 minutes from the station to Römerberg Square, and we enjoyed the scenery. On the walk, you’ll pass a few old churches and be treated to lovely views of the Main River.
Once you’ve finished exploring Old Town, there’s another nice walk on the other side of the river to get back to the train station. The sycamore-lined pedestrian walkway travels between Schaumainkai Street and the Main River. It passes several old mansions, some of which are now museums.
Where to stay in Frankfurt
Try to get a hotel in or near Frankfurt’s Old Town. Another option is to stay a few blocks from the Hbf Station. We found a nice hotel not far from the station, and we felt very safe, but there are quite a few street people in the area, so not everyone will feel comfortable. It is not advised to walk in this area at night.
If you’re already in Frankfurt, you may want to look at these great day trips. Heidelberg and Mainz both have beautiful historic centres and are a quick train ride away from Frankfurt.
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To read more of our adventures in Germany, click here.
Coming Next – What To See In Enchanting Heidelberg
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