When we first stepped into Sibiu’s historic square and were delighted by the elegant historic buildings around its edge. We thought this was the main square and were pleased with what we found. After walking through a covered passage we emerged into an even grander space. The large, main square is like a museum with perfectly arranged, beautifully restored buildings. Upon seeing these two plazas, we knew then that we would love discovering medieval Sibiu.
In the 12th century the King of Hungary sent Saxons to settle the lands of Transylvania. Known as the ‘Transylvanian Saxons’, many became wealthy and built elaborate homes, churches and town squares. This wealth meant that they were easy targets and so many of the Saxon cities were fortified. Sibiu was one of the wealthiest of those cities and today what was left behind are beautiful heritage buildings that show the grandeur that this city once had. It’s easy to see how prosperous this city once was with the elegant buildings in Upper Old Town.
To see more of these Romanian fortified cities visit our posts Explore Brașov’s Old Town, Fortified City of Sighișoara and Transylvania’s Fortified Churches.
The place to begin your exploration of this wonderful Old Town is the main plaza, Piața Mare (Great Square) in Upper Town. This large, open plaza is breathtaking; fringed by beautifully restored, grand buildings. Patios spill out on to the square, but they barely make a dent in the open space. Generations ago, markets would have been set up in the middle of the square, but today all of the shops are contained in the pretty historic buildings. Two excellent examples are Brukenthal Palace and the attached Blue House.
The unmissable building on the edge of the square is Council Tower. You can climb up the narrow, stone steps to the top of the cream coloured tower for a bird’s eye view of Old Town. Built in 1241 the tower is attached to Old City Hall. It was restored in 1588 after the top collapsed.
At the base of the tower is a covered passageway. Walk through it to reach Piaţa Mică (Small Square). It is a smaller version of grand square, but no less picturesque. It is so pretty that this is the square we first thought was the main square.
Cobblestone streets branch out from these plazas, in a haphazard fashion. You won’t mind getting lost in the maze of Upper Old Sibiu though. It’s the perfect place to take a stroll and immerse yourself in its history.
The medieval buildings are in great condition and have their own unique style. If you look closely you can see eyes on many of them.
In addition to the one under Council Tower, there are many other small passages throughout Old Town. Sometimes they provide the only way to get between streets, adding to the mystery of this town. Some of these passages lead to stairs that mark the border between the wealthy Upper Town and working-class Lower Town. In many of them you can feel its history seeping through the walls.
The homes in Lower Old Town are not as elegant, but they are still in remarkable condition. It is as much fun to explore these streets as it is in Upper Old Town.
The pretty streets in Sibiu have a different feel at night. Long shadows emerge from corners. Old walls feel like they are closing in. Shadows form unfamiliar shapes. The buildings and passages seem to be the perfect shape to let your imagination go wild. Dark alleys look to be hiding something just out of sight. Our minds would conjure up images of Dracula behind each corner. Of course it is perfectly safe, but it’s easy to let your imagination wander.
The city was once fortified and on the edge of Old Town are a few remnants of the wall that used to surround it. Along the wall we found a few archetypical medieval towers.
Separated by only a few blocks are three churches with three very different looks. Walking between these three you can see the different styles used in the buildings as well as the interior decor. Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church (18th century) is a Viennese Baroque church with a pretty, pink interior. A block away, the 14th century Lutheran Cathedral has a stoic, gothic exterior. It was originally built as a Roman Catholic church, but was changed to Lutheran when the congregation converted. Its interior was under renovation, but it looked to be quite plain inside.
The final church is Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral. It was built in 1902 in neo-Byzantine style with two spires and a large domed roof. The semi-circle stained glass lintel gives it a unique look. It was Sunday when we visited and service was taking place. Unlike many churches in Canada, the sanctuary was full of parishioners.
When visiting Orthodox churches throughout Romania and Bulgaria we had noticed that the sanctuaries were open rooms with only a few seates around the sides. There were very few if any pews. At this service there were also no chairs and most parishioners stood; men on the right, women on the left.
Not far from Piata Mica is the pedestrian-only Bridge of Lies. We thought there would be a great legend to go with this bridge but in fact the name is the result of a translation error. It was named Liegenbrücke which means lying bridge. It was named so because it has no supporting pillars. It has nothing to do with lies.
Sibiu is a great historical town to explore, but now we are ready to see what the towns have in northern Romania has to offer.
How to get to Sibiu
Located on the well maintained highway between it and Brașov, it is an easy drive between the two cities. To reach Sibiu from Bucharest, take the Transfăgărășan Highway. Called one of the best drives in the world, it is more than just a highway, but a destination on its own. Note that Transfăgărășan is only open from late June until late October or early November. You can read our post about this drive on our post Driving The Transfăgărășan (Coming Soon).
If you don’t have a car you can take the train from Bucharest. It is a slower option than driving though. Trains leave Bucharest’s North Railway Station (Gara de Nord) destined for Sibiu.
Where to stay and eat in Sibiu
On the streets in and around Old Town there are many small and large hotels, guesthouses and apartments available. It would be a shame to visit this beautiful city and not stay in its historic centre. The city is very walkable and safe, even after dark. You’ll most likely want to eat at one of the outdoor patios in either Piața Mare or Piaţa Mică.
To read more of our adventures in Romania, click here.
Coming Next – Romania’s Painted Monasteries
For pictures from other blogs go to Gallery at monkeystale.ca
To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
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There seems to be a beautiful balance between grandeur and quaintness in this city. Also, some of those houses’ eyes look a bit creepy.
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It does have the right mix. The eyes follow you everywhere… 😊
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By day or by night, your photos are very inspiring of what Sibu has to offer. One of my former colleagues came from this region and recommended it to me, and reading your article, it confirms its appeal. Romania is the last EU country I haven’t already been to, and it should be its turn soon.
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It definitely should. We really loved our time there. It has such a variety of sites too so we didn’t feel like we were seeing the same thing over and over.
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Sounds good!
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Looks delightful
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It is delightful! Thanks Sheree
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Unlike Catholic or Reformed churches, Orthodox churches only have pews (“strane” in Romanian) lined up against the walls, up to the altar. Sometimes the pews near the altar are inscribed with the names of the founders.
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We didn’t know that before and wondered what would happen during a service, and finally saw one in Sibiu. That can be a long time to stand 😊
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Your photos and descriptions make me want to go there! 🙂
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You should Kymber, we loved Sibiu. The entire country is great with many amazing places 😊
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Wonderful description and images.
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Thank you!!
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Sibiu’s remarkably maintained heritage buildings would be fascinating to visit. Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral’s exterior is rather bland and hides its spectacular interior quite well! 🙂
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That’s true, the only hint is the stained glass above the door that makes it a bit unique. The inside is quite opulent. Thanks again for your comments Nancy. Maggie
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Sibiu is indeed remarkable Maggie. The squares are beautiful no matter the time of day and the views from the tower are spectacular. Thanks for sharing. Allan
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It really is a great, historical city Allan, thank you! Maggie
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Okay, I think the eyes on the buildings might creep me out a little. Especially at night, I could see how that might add to the spooky vibe.
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They seem to follow you as you move too…
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It reminds me a bit of strolling through Salzburg. I love all the passages and the eyes are quite interesting. Seems like something out of a movie set.
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You’re right it would be a great movie set because it’s so perfect 😊 Thanks Lyssy
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I do love all the city and town squares that are so prominent in these older EU locations. This one is lovely and so well kept. I also love the fact that a tower built in 1241 was restored in 1588. And just look at it. It looks amazing. These days we are lucky if modern day restoration last forty years. And thanks for the trivia about the lying bridge that was lost in translation.
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Yes that’s a long time for a renovation to last. I imagine everything had a little work done recently to look so good, but their restoration was so well done it feels like it was still in the Middle Ages.
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What a great virtual tour, dear Maggie!
Great sharing as always! Thank you!
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Thank you so much Luisa!
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You’re more than welcome 💙
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What a lovely, little place, Maggie. I love its narrow cobbled streets, the charming squares, the quaint connecting passageways and historical buildings. I’ve never seen such a thing as ‘eyes on the building’ – how cool is that! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 xx
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It is yet another great heritage city in Romania. Once you see the eyes you can never un-see them and they follow you 😊 Thanks for you comment Aiva, Maggie
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🥰🥰🥰
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Hmm; did you have a nagging feeling that you were being watched? The houses with eyes are a bit disturbing. The view from Council Tower is splendid. The old town also looks like a lovely place to meander. Thanks for sharing Maggie!
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Yes we did and those eyes seem to follow you. 😊
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Ah, the eyes of Sibiu! This post takes me back – I’d forgotten quite how much I loved this city! I stayed just off Piața Mare for a Virtual Tourist meeting and spent many happy hours in and around the square 😀 Thanks for the memories!
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We absolutely loved it, and really can’t decide which we like better it or Brasov. Glad to being back those memories 😊
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A beautiful place, day or night. I enjoyed the tour!
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Thanks, glad you enjoyed Sibiu with us, it is a fabulous heritage city. Maggie
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You weren’t wrong, Maggie- what a lovely little town! I could definitely linger there. The eyes are familiar from the border town of Gorlitz in Bavaria.
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Ohh I’ll have to look up Gorlitz, they were an interesting feature in Sibiu. Thanks Jo! Maggie
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I have an uncle who lives in Zgorzelec, in Poland, on the other side of the border. It’s quite a contrast 🙂🩷
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I just looked it up and they do have eyes!
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What beautiful architecture and colours of buildings. The view of the curved buildings from the Council House look lovely.
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Thanks Marion, I’m glad we went up the tower, it is a great view. Maggie
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An absolutely beautiful town! Its Medieval charm is amazing. The churches are fabulous. I love love the Orthodox church inside and out…so spectacular! I cannot remember in all the churches I have visited, read about or seen photos with so many wall paintings and fresco’s wow!!
Love the night scenes of the Old City very authentic feel to what it must have been like back in historic times.
I enjoyed the doors too. There is a large wood door that looked like it dated back to the Medieval time with the two women statues. The door and windows on the bottom seem to be older (or different in style form the top level) Are both floors of that building from the same historical period I wonder?
The large square and the areas around seem quite walkable. You mentioned train travel was possible to the city. What is your opinion on train travel to the city?
P.S. I like the ‘eyes’ after you mentioned them, I began spotting them often. Pretty cool. Was that for style? It is very unique. Again a beautiful journey. Thank you for taking the reader along, Maggie. As always safe travels.
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Thanks for your great questions Suzette, The eyes are for ventilation for the attics which at one time were used for storage. They were very unique and almost a little unsettling as they seemed to follow you as you passed by 🙂
I don’t know much about that building with the door and the statues, it does look like it was modified a few times over the years. The Orthodox churches in Romania have so many frescoes inside (and soon you’ll see outside), more than I’ve ever see. Even the thick window sills are painted.
The buildings in the centre have been beautifully restored and really do make you feel like it’s the Middle Ages. Especially at night when their old age shows through. You can take the train from Bucharest but it’s known to be very slow, but if you don’t have a car its another option. Thanks so much for your great questions! Maggie
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Oh, it’s a great idea to use the angled roof for attic ventilation. A great feature…ingenious, really. Thank you for the additional information. It’s always a delight to read your travellogs and see the great photos, Maggie. Cheers.
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The old town looks like a maze indeed. Beautiful🙂
p.s. in Orthodox churches, people not only stand the whole time, but they kneel a lot too!
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Do they kneel on the floor? I didn’t see any hassocks common in Roman Catholic churches, who also kneel a lot.
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Most Orthodox churches have small cushions aside that people can take and use, when needed. Otherwise, on the floor😀
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Ouch!
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You’re right, it’s beautiful. I loved the night time pictures but my imagination might run wild if I was there.
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Absolutely lovely, looks and sounds such a great city/town. Those eyes in the roof are slightly creepy, don’t you think. This is a lovely town though, typically Eastern European but with all the charm and none of the Soviet austerity – unless of course you just didn’t show it…
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Thankfully the ugly Communist buildings didn’t make it into the historic centre and we really had no reason to explore the other parts of the city. The eyes on the roofs seem to follow you as you pass by, so yes, quite creepy 🙂
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Absolutely beautiful! 😍
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Stunning Maggie! Love it, love it, love it!!! 🥰💖😘📸😍
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Thanks Kym!! 😊😊
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My pleasure Maggie! 😍💖🤗
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I must admit my first impression upon seeing your photos of the old houses in this part of Sibiu is how some of those have eyes. Once you see them, it’s hard to unsee them. I really like the look of Sibiu’s old town; it looks pretty, compact, and most importantly, well-maintained. Seriously Maggie. Your posts on Romania make me really want to go to this country!
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And those eyes seem to follow you as you pass by. 😊 Sibiu is yet another amazing heritage town in Romania. Like the others it is very well maintained. We really fell in love with the country, I hope you do visit!
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Beautiful pictures of this extremely historical and well-preserved city, especially the night photos. I’ve seen those attic “eye” windows in buildings in other parts of Europe, too. It’s a practical idea for giving the attic some light but they certainly take on a personality, don’t they?
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They eyes really do give the houses a personality, and they follow you as you walk by, which makes them a little spooky too 🙂
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Oh I love this place! And I’d love to get lost in those narrow streets. Something about Medieval architecture, and the way towns and cities grew so organically, gives them a more grounded and welcoming feel that cities of modern architecture. Wonderful photos.
Alison
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Old Town looks so lovely! And honestly, now I think every house should have eyes! 🙂
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They should, it sure gives them a lot of personality!
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The houses look more modern to me than what I envision as Medieval. And the eyes are so interesting. The contrast between the clean, plainer homes and the over-the-top ornate churches is also interesting. Thank you for sharing our discoveries with us, Maggie.
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Some of the houses are 18th century but the town hall and some of the othere are much older. It always surprises me how elaborate the churches are compared to the humble homes. Thanks Mary
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Even houses that are dated in XVIIIth century are in fact much older, with several layers going to XIV-XIII centuries, depending on the location of the houses. For instance, as i studied the Michael Brukenthal house in 8 Avram Iancu street (house of the nephew of Samuel Brukenthal) i could identify clearly such layers. The oldest house (the “most medieval” so to speak) is some numbers away from this one, at16 Avram Iancu street.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Str.+Avram+Iancu+16,+Sibiu+550183/@45.7982548,24.1538116,3a,75y,158.87h,100.49t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sGJ6QS5M77tUEwbqIZjOpzg!2e0!6shttps:%2F%2Fstreetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com%2Fv1%2Fthumbnail%3Fpanoid%3DGJ6QS5M77tUEwbqIZjOpzg%26cb_client%3Dsearch.gws-prod.gps%26w%3D360%26h%3D120%26yaw%3D154.80492%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656!4m15!1m8!3m7!1s0x474c67973c488893:0xc3de37fa988e00ca!2sStr.+Avram+Iancu+16,+Sibiu+550183!3b1!8m2!3d45.7980879!4d24.1539076!16s%2Fg%2F11b8v6pw97!3m5!1s0x474c67973c488893:0xc3de37fa988e00ca!8m2!3d45.7980879!4d24.1539076!16s%2Fg%2F11b8v6pw97?entry=ttu
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This town is going on the list! It looks beautiful day and night. The Husband’s long-standing goal is to cycle the Transfăgărășan Highway (which I copied and pasted – no way I’m wrestling with all those diacritical marks!).
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I copy and past it everytime😊 It would be a great bike ride, and the cars drive quite slow so it should be safe. We’ll post about it in a couple of weeks. And yes Sibiu must go on your list 😊
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Good to know! Thanks!
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So beautiful, actually in its architecture and buildings it really reminds me of Tallinn. The Passage of Stairs is particularly lovely, though probably spooky at night like you say! I’m loving exploring more of Romania via you rposts 🙂
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Sibiu is so pretty 🙂 The eyes on the roofs are cool, if a little unnerving – they look like they’re watching you!
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They do seem to move as you do giving you the sense that you’re being watched 😊
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Charming once again. Looks like 3-4 nights would be good for a visit?
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It’s very charming, one of our top 3 in Romania. We spent 3 nights in Sibiu but we also spent a couple of nights in smaller towns within an hour or two. We wish we stayed in Sighișoara for a night too.
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Old Town looks beautiful. That’s neat about the eyes on the buildings. It’s funny how a place can look and feel so different at night.
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The eyes felt like they were following us as we walked by. I know, it is funny, but it really had a different feel with all of the shadows in the stairs and passageways at night. And maybe because we were in Transylvania!! Maggie
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Hi Maggie,
What a captivating account of your time in Sibiu! Your detailed descriptions truly brought the historic squares and elegant buildings to life. It’s fascinating to learn about the Transylvanian Saxons and their influence on the region’s architecture. The way you described the transition from the smaller square to the grander main square makes it easy to imagine the awe you must have felt.
I’m curious, during your exploration of the Upper and Lower Old Town, did you come across any local traditions or cultural events that added to the experience?
I so much enjoy reading your accounts of these exotic (for me) locals.
Best, Mike
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Thanks Mike, there weren’t any traditional customs or events happening when we were there unfortunately. It was a lot of Romanians enjoying the historical town, much like we were. The only place we got to see old customs was at one of the wooden churches, parishioners were leaving with loaves of bread, which seemed odd. In the same area we stayed in a local family’s guest house. Their daughter greeted us dressed in a traditional costume and then they shared many shots of their horinca (plum brandy) with us 😊 It was a fun evening.
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