Wooden Churches of Romania

A tall, spindly spire reaches high above the small, wooden church to look like something out of a Brothers Grimm fable. The old wooden churches in Maramureș were unlike anything we’d ever seen before. Once we saw one, we were excited to continue our travels through northern Romania to see more.

Built between the 16th and 18th centuries, these artistically crafted churches are from a time when the Roman Catholic Austro-Hungarians ruled Maramureș. This empire prohibited the building of stone Orthodox or Greek-Catholic churches so the local villagers were forced to use another material. They chose to build their churches with timber. Since the surrounding hills are carpeted in oak forests, the villagers were used to building with wood. In fact woodworking was a skill passed down from generation to generation. Instead of erecting ordinary wooden structures through, they got creative and built churches that would show off their carpentry skills.

Originally over three hundred of these churches were built. Today approximately 100 are left and most are from the 17th and 18th centuries. Eight of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We visited a few of these churches and not only did we enjoy seeing these wonderful buildings, but we also loved meeting the incredibly warm and friendly people.

The wooden churches are spread out in small villages in the district of Maramureș in northeastern Romania. It is the aqua-blue area in the map below.

We couldn’t believe our eyes as we approached our first wooden church in Maramureș. Built in the early 17th century, Church on the Hill’s slim body and tall bell tower soaring above a double eave roof made it look awkwardly cute. As we would find as we visited more of them, this is the common look for the wooden churches of Maramureș. They are not elaborate cathedrals, but are village churches, built and maintained by the local community.

This church in Ileud is one of the eight UNESCO Heritage Site churches.

Surrounding the church is a small cemetery with carved wooden grave markers. Many of them have metal tops to protect them from the elements. It was impressive to see how well tended all of the cemeteries in Maramureș are. Many graves have fresh bouquets or planted flowers and candles letting you know family members stop by often.  

The village of Ieud is almost as cute as the church with rustic wooden farm houses lining the road to the church. Some have eyes similar to those we saw in Sibiu.


Although similar in construction, Saint Parascheva Church in Poienile Izei village is smaller and looked a bit more weather-worn than the church in Ieud. Between its condition, the cemetery and the gloomy sky it had an almost spooky appearance.

The frescoes on the church door are fantastic and make it look every one of its 400 years. These paintings made us understand why it received UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.

Like many of the wooden churches, this church was locked when we visited. There’s usually a phone number posted near the entrance that you can call to have someone let you in. We didn’t bother calling. It would have been a difficult conversation over the phone since we don’t speak Romanian and most of the locals don’t speak English.


There are two sites to visit in Bârsana. We first stopped by the new monastery. It was built in the 1990s on the site of the original monastery and was fashioned in the spirit of the wooden heritage buildings. Today it operates as a nunnery. Even though the buildings are not that old, they are very picturesque.

The entrance is through a large wooden gate with decorative carvings. Beyond the gate the complex has ten buildings including a church, nuns’ residence, belltower and other monastery buildings. Speakers played Romanian hymns which gave it a peaceful feel. The buildings surround a manicured garden, but the best part of the setting for us was the fall colours on the surrounding hills.

The second site we visited in Bârsana is the heritage wooden church. It is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Built in the early 1700s, it is located in a large grassy yard on Jbâr Hill. When we arrived, a service was just ending and church goers were departing with bags of bread and the kids had bags of candy. It was likely bread that was consecrated by the priest for the start of Christmas fast.

A legend explains why the church is so important to the villagers. In 1710 a plague killed many people in the area. Soon after the plague was over, villagers built the church on the monastery grounds to thank God for sparing their lives. After the monastery closed, the church was moved to Jbâr Hill, not far from the cemetery for the plague’s victims. Apparently villagers moved the church one wooden plank at a time.

Tip –  Google Maps places the church 1 km east of its location. A sign on the highway is correct and directs you to the church.


After visiting Bârsana, don’t miss this side trip to the city of Săpânţa. It doesn’t have a wooden church, but it does have something unique to see. Merry Cemetery is much different than most cemeteries. Instead of being a somber place, the grounds are filled with bright blue wooden grave markers and surround a brightly painted stone church. Even the rain didn’t dampen our spirits at this cheery place.

Each grave marker is colourfully decorated with folk art paintings. They depict the deceased working in their profession. The back of each marker has a painting showing their hobbies as well as a poem. We couldn’t read the poems, but understand that they are quite whimsical in their retelling of the person’s life.

This tradition began in the 1930s when a local folk artist began crafting the crosses. It is believed he was inspired by their Dacian ancestors who celebrated the life of the deceased rather than mourn their death. The cheery nature of the headstones caught on and today the tradition is being continued by his apprentice. There are over 800 painted grave markers in the cemetery.

The church’s interior looks like many of the Orthodox Churches we visited, except that the altar wall is painted a pretty, baby blue.


The tallest wooden church in the world can be found just outside Săpânţa. At 76 metres (256 ft) high, Peri-Săpânţa’s bell tower makes the church look a little top-heavy. For perspective, the church beside it has a typical bell tower height. Construction of the monastery church began in the 1990s but they built it in the vernacular architecture style of the area.


It was pouring rain when we visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Budești. Church of St Nicholas isn’t quite as tall as the others, but the four small turrets on the bell tower makes it much cuter than the other ones we’d seen. 

Hanging on one of the walls is a wooden plank (semantron) that is banged with a mallet during the call to prayer. We saw one of these previously when we visited the painted monastery in Voroneţ.


Not only are the churches made from wood, many of the gates and houses in Maramureș also showcase the skill of the local carvers of the time. We saw many examples of this in Breb. Even the newer houses and churches keep up the tradition having carved wooden gates in front.

Even in the rain we could tell we would enjoy our stay in Breb. Said to have the last peasant culture in Romania, we were instantly charmed by its quaint, bucolic setting.

The wooden Church of Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel has the oldest bell tower in Romania. Today though you would hardly know that it was a bell tower with its short stature.

We stayed at a lovely guesthouse in Breb where we instantly felt the warmth and hospitality of the people in this region. As soon as we stepped out of our car, they welcomed us with shots of their home-brewed Horincă also called Țuică (in Hungarian regions it is known as palinka). It is a potent, but tasty plum brandy. Their daughter joined us, dressed in a traditional costume. After a couple of shots, their grandmother took us into their shed to show off their Horincă still.

More shots of brandy were served as we ate a delicious, traditional dinner. We chose between cheesy vegetable or pork polentas served with a hearty bread and salad. Dessert was papanasi, which are fried donuts covered in cream and a fruit compote. It was a fun evening being entertained by their animated stories. Lucky for us one of the other guests spoke English and could translate. You can find Casa Grai Moroșănesc on Booking.com.


The next morning we visited the wooden Saint Parascheva Church, in Desești. It was raining as we arrived, but we still had time to appreciate the well tended to cemetery as we raced toward the church. Many of the graves have flowering bushes and perennial flowers planted around them.

We arrived when service was taking place in the small sanctuary. The priest was leading prayer and a few locals were singing in response. It was a great atmosphere, but it was the re-touched frescoes from 1780 that caught our attention. Crude as they may be, they are wonderful and tell the stories of saints and sinners. They are one of the reasons that church received UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.


The design of Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Plopiş is a little different from the others. It has two rows of windows along its wall and a single eave roof which gives it a unique exterior. The best part, however is its interior decorations. When we were visiting, a painter was examining the frescoes to see which needed touching up. He showed us the elaborate paintings around the altar and the more simple drawings on the ceiling and remaining walls. It was these unsophisticated ones that appealed to us a little more.

This church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Maramureș is located in the northwestern region of Romania near the border with Ukraine. Many are in small, villages that are not easily reached by public transport. We drove almost 200 km to visit all of these churches so reaching them by public transportation would be very difficult. The nearest airport is Cluj-Napoca, roughly 150 km south. Renting a car or joining a tour is the easiest way to see most of these churches. Tours will only take you to a few of the churches though. We rented a car in Bucharest so that we could continue to tour more places in the country.

Tip – Car rental agencies in Romania require a physical copy of your international driver’s licence. Only a few, smaller companies will rent to you without one.

Many of the towns and villages in this region have guesthouse, the larger centres will have a selection of hotels. Where you stay will depend on which churches you want to see. The cities of Baia Mare and Sighetu Marmatiei will have a larger selection. We loved our guest house, Casa Grai Moroșănesc, in the village of Breb. You can find it on Booking.com.

Tip – Make sure you have a written receipt from your hotel. Since the area is close to the Ukrainian border, officials may stop your car to see your passport and hotel receipt.

If you liked these churches, you may also enjoy the Painted Monasteries of Romania.

Read from another device.

Thanks to our friend Florin at Născut Pe Lista Neagră (Born on the Blacklist) for his help in planning our trip to Romania.

Thanks also to Romania Tourism for allowing us to use their map.

To read more of our adventures in Romania, click here.

114 comments

  • The bulky, multi-tiered church roofs bare some resemblance to Japanese Zen temple roofs, but without upturned eaves. The area’s gates also have a “Zen” style to them.

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    • That is because of the “poems” mentioned in the post. It is difficult for a foreigner to get it as they are usually some verses written in a silly/naïve style, sometimes even with grammar mistakes. But they are always a funny way to remind the difficulties of the deceased in life – one was a drunk (usually depicted with a bottle in the hand), one was in perpetual conflict with the mother in law and so on. They are just like the funnies in the old journals as the text goes with the image.

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  • These remind me of the wooden churches (and even entire villages of wood structures) in Slovakia. To this day, I remain fascinated by those old, fairy-tale churches, and these took me right back there!

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  • Wow. I’ve never seen churches like this. You’re so right, they look like something out of a fairy tale. How unique! I also really love the large stone church with the blue interior and the cemetery with the blue grave markers. What a great tradition – personalizing the markers like that. I like that!

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  • Oh I love these churches too! I really love their quiet beauty and incredible craftsmanship. And those are probably the most beautiful headstones I’ve ever seen. Romania just is unending in beautiful areas and buildings 🙂

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      • You are too kind! You did not mention the new extremely ugly architecture in almost all the villages there destroying the character that was still there 30 years ago. But in Breb (one of the poorer villages there) they kept more of the tradition. This is why King Charles owns two properties there also.

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  • Maggie, it’s surprising how many of these churches are still standing. And what interesting and beautiful headstones. I wonder how long those last. The cemeteries are safer than the ones near me with giant stone stones that can fall on us.

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    • It is remarkable that so many wooden structures are still around and most in good condition. They are obviously taking great care of them. Thanks Mary

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  • The craftsmanship that has gone into these churches is amazing, both outside and in! I also loved seeing the ‘merry cemetery’ (I would spend ages there taking photos of the different paintings!) and the beautiful gates in Breb.

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    • This is such a fascinating part of the country. The woodwork, the simple paintings, the landscape, the cemetary and the people all add up to a great visit. We spent a lot of time at every stop, even in the pouring rain 😊 Thanks Sarah.

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  • I thank you for your visit. I am very sorry that I could not accompany you, it would have been a real pleasure. Still, maybe it was better because you made up your own mind.

    In Maramureș there are still some remarkable churches. The church in Şurdeşti, historical monument, with the wooden tower, 18th century, near Plopiş. Then, on the Izei Valley – Bogdan Vodă, Botiza, Rozavlea. Without being made of wood, the Rohia Monastery, near Târgul Lăpuș, is very interesting.

    The wall in front of the altar of Orthodox and Greek-Catholic churches is called catapeteasma. It is always made of wood of selected essences, carved and painted.

    An interesting objective is the Vaser Valley, accessible from Vișeul de Sus by a narrow-gauge train (mocănița) in the Wooded Carpathians, close to the border with Ukraine.

    A beautiful town in the area is Sighetul Marmației whose down town has old buildings. I saw the fortress in San Jose, Puerto Rico with the prison last year. In Sighet is a museum prison, one of the harshest in communist Eastern Europe, where thousands of people were slaughtered in the 20th century.

    I assume that you passed from the north of Moldova, from Bucovina, to Maramureș through the Prislop or Mestecăniș pass – both roads are extremely picturesque, especially the Mestecăniș pass.

    I look forward and enjoy the next post. Thanks Maggie.

    Liked by 3 people

    • It would have great to have you show us around, next time 😊 As it was we couldn’t have fit more site in and we loved what we were able to see. We did go to Şurdeşti but Google Maps sent us to the wrong church with a metal roof. We didn’t realize there was another one until we were quite far away. The scenery on the drive was beautiful but the rain meant we didn’t stop much to enjoy it. We did also look into the train but didn’t have time. You’re giving me great ideas for next time. Thanks again for all of your help! Maggie and Richard

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  • Totally amazing wood churches and exceptional skill. I cannot imagine how long it took to make the wood tiles for the roof, must more to apply them to the high roofs.

    Love the Bârsana Monastery’s beautiful landscape and building. The area looks serene and very well maintained as was everywhere in the areas.

    I like the paintings and biblical scenes in the ceilings of Archangels Michael and Gabriel in Plopiş. There is a great simplicity that speaks volumes in them. Great work. I cannot imagine how the painter reached the ceiling and then painted text and pictures from such heights.

    The Merry Church is beautiful inside and the cemetry.. wow! I have never seen a cemetry that pretty before. Awesome.

    I notice that some (three, I think) of the churches eg. Plopiş have four (it looks like) mini-turrets just before the top of the bell tower. Is that a later architectural feature? I wonder?

    Thank you as always, Maggie for a great tour and excellent details.

    P.S. I love that “P” parking sign for the horse and carriage. But, I did not see any horses and carriages. Was that an antique sign or currently in use?

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    • These wooden churches are masterfully built and its remarkable how long they’ve lasted since their made of wood.
      I’m not sure why Budești and Plopiş have turrets on their roofs. Artistic creativity I think. Merry Cemetery is very Merry, what a great idea. I wish ours were less somber.
      There were actually quite a few horse and buggies but we weren’t able to take many pictures of them. My understanding is that they are all Romas, but I could be wrong.
      Glad you enjoyed this part of Romania Suzette! Maggie

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        • In Transylvanian Saxon church architecture, those four turrets on the corners of the spire roofs had a meaning. They were a signal that in that part the local judiciary system had the right of death penalty. I do not know if that was the case in the case of the Romanian village of Plopis. An in the case of new church of Sapanta Merry Cemetery is simply a sort of mimetic architecture, “all in” (it has also some “medieval moldavian” esthetics in it), without any real preoccupation for the meaning of some architectural details.

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          • Thank you very much for the details and interesting points about the mini turrets. I appreciate it you taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise.

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      • They have to redo the roof every at least 25 years. On the roof spires they should do it more often as they have many problems caused by woodpeckers that make many holes and they did not find a solution to prevent them from doing it … I have pictures from Peri (the new tall church) with at least 4 round holes in its roof 🙂

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  • I love all of these quaint wooden churches, especially the Plopiş Wooden Church with its phenomenal interior art. The wooden church with the tallest steeple is also a rather amazing structure when compared to the normal sized steeple nearby. The Merry Cemetery is quite unique and a befitting place of rest! Thank you for the fabulous tour of this region! 🙂

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  • We loved all of them for exactly the same reasons. It is quite amazing that these beautiful wooden structures are still standing after so many centuries. Thanks Nancy! Maggie

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  • What can I say? Lovely!!! So sorry you got some rain along the way. A sunny sky would have made the rural landscape magical🙂

    As Florin mentioned.. next time!

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  • The artistic detail on the various grave marker, inside and outside church walls is amazing. The fall colors are stunning also.

    Great photos!

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    • And they are all made by two men. The original artist and now his apprentice has taken over. They make such a pretty cemetary 😊

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      • Wow. I can’t even imagine the time it takes or the cost! But even the other grave markers at other sites are intricate. And I was noticing the paintings high up on the outside of that one church, a row just below the roof. Such craftsmanship.

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  • I’m so impressed with these churches. Seems like a different world. It is also astonishing to know that wood has survived for so long. The wooden plaques in cemetery is impressive with those paintings. Thanks for sharing these pictures and information, Maggie.

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  • They really are the stuff of fairy tales, aren’t they. Beautiful autumn colours in some of the backgounds too. Ah yes I remember palinka from Budapest…they kept insisting I had a palinka chaser with every beer. Such an interesting part of your long journey through unusual destinations.

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    • I felt like we were Hansel and Gretel for a while. The churches are fantastical. We had quite a few shots of horinca even before dinner! These spots in Northern Romania are so far from our usual world, it was awesome. 😊

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  • In Jamaica in some districts the people have also started building structures on their graves of the things they loved in life. You’ll see Liquor bottles, soccer balls, bikes, cars, and sometimes their pictures. Cultures different, people all the same.

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  • I don’t know where to start, but those wooden churches look so whimsical, and mysterious — but it’s probably because of the weather. I love the tall spires, the ornate gates, the colorful paintings. But what is most intriguing for me is the cemetery. I’ve never seen such brightly-colored grave markers. I think it was great that a local artist started this tradition of celebrating the lives of the deceased, instead of mourning them. That’s beautiful.

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    • I think they’d be whimsical and mysterious on a sunny day. Their shape is reminiscent of children’s stories. The cemetary is such a fun place. I wish we read Romanian so we could have read the fun stories about the people too. It’s yet another amazing part of Romania 😊

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    • This was yet another incredible and unique place in Romania. All of the graveyards were well taken care of. It was so nice to see. But Merry Cemetery wins hands down 😊 Thanks Hannah!

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  • Love everything about this – the beautiful countryside, the sense of timelessness, the cemeteries, and especially the wonderful churches. It’s like entering a whole other era.
    Alison

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  • These churches are a really incredible discovery. They are masterpieces inside and out. It all looks very cinematic with the fall colours as a backdrop. The ‘merry cemetery’ is quite unique and a place I’d love very much to see for myself.

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    • They are masterpieces, we were actually a little giddy when we saw the first one. The Cemetery was so cheery, I wish we could have read the quirky poem, but the fun artwork was also great. You guys would love it ! 😊 Thanks Leighton! Maggie

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  • It is so interesting to learn about other places and cultures, thank you. I find cemeteries fascinating – never seen any quite like that! They demonstrate devotion and respect.

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  • How fascinating – I love wooden churches! These ones are lovely. I like the idea of Merry Cemetery too – part of me thinks we need more like that, but at the same time I appreciate the macarbe atmosphere of cemeteries and I’m one of those weird people who enjoys walking through them!

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    • I enjoy cemeteries too, but Merry Cemetery will stand out as a favourite. It is very cheery, but its also very quaint with its folk art grave markers. The wooden churches are awesome. They feel a little like a scary children’s nursery rhyme 😊

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  • I didn’t get around much of Romania when I was there, but I did see some wooden churches. I don’t recall where but they would have been closer to Bucharest. Those tiled folk art graves are so lovely – I’m sure each has a story to tell.

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    • It may have been in the Village Museum in Bucharest. The folk art graves are such a great idea. I wish we could have read the poems written on each one, but just seeing the individualized pictures was great. Thanks Ruth! Maggie

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    • Once you see one building with eyes, you realize they are everywhere 🙂 These wooden churches are in such great condition, it’s very impressive to see. Thanks Linda, Maggie

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