Once you first set eyes on Baku’s downtown, it won’t take long to realize the city has amassed considerable wealth. In this boom and bust petroleum economy, Azerbaijanis appear to have taken full advantage of their booms to create unique and eye-catching architecture. Oil is very close to the surface, and in prehistoric times, eternal flames were common, even worshipped. Today, though, instead of worshipping it, they are profiting from it. We think you’ll love exploring the modern architecture of this wonderfully eclectic city.
After exploring the narrow lanes in Baku’s Old City, it’s time to visit the more modern streets, although by modern, we’ll begin in the 1800s.
European Architecture
Once you leave the quaint Old City, you’ll quickly notice a transition into another architectural style. Bordering the historic centre is a neighbourhood with some of the most fabulous examples of 19th and 20th century European designs. During the oil boom days of Imperial Russia, Azerbaijanis amassed great wealth. They used their newly earned money to build elaborate palaces and homes. Many had travelled to Europe and wanted to emulate the Parisian styles they had seen. As a result, the buildings have influences from Baroque, Rococo as well as Moorish styles, and all with an Azerbaijani touch. It was sometimes referred to as the ‘Paris of the Caspian’.
A favourite activity of ours was to wander these streets and ogle at these elegant Parisian buildings. Some to watch for are Ismailiyya Palace (currently National Academy of Sciences), Hajinksi Palace, Saadet Sarayi (also known as the Palace of Happiness or Mukhtarov’s Mansion) and City Hall.
In between these fabulous buildings are many green spaces. We never went very far without walking by a large park filled with trees, flower beds and a lush lawns. One of our favourites was Philharmonic Garden which is also home to the Azerbaijan Philharmonic Hall.
Nizami Street
One place to see these elegant designs is the vibrant Nizami Street. Many of the historic buildings are now home to restaurants, cafes and shops. Nizami is a pedestrianized street that leads to Fountain Square. The plaza is aptly named with dozens of fountains, in a variety of shapes, scattered throughout the large courtyard.
Both Nizami and Fountain Square are popular for locals and tourists meeting or lunch or coffee. It is even busier at night when the many fountains are illuminated.
The pedestrian street is named after Nizami Ganjavi, a beloved 12th century Azerbaijani poet. He wrote romantic poems in a colloquial style that is still adored today. We will show you other sites dedicated to Nizami when we travel to the city of Ganja. (Coming Soon)
Church of Saint Gregory the Illuminator
Commonly called the Armenian Church, this Apostolic church was built in 1869 and suffered from attacks and looting by both the Russians and the Ottoman Empire. In the late 1980s, most Armenians fled the country during battles over disputed land. It is one of two remaining Armenian churches in Baku. The church is closed, but you can easily see its exterior on the side of Fountain Park.
Taza Pir Mosque
Built at the start of the 20th century, construction costs of Taza Pir Mosque (Təzə Pir) were funded by a female Azerbaijani philanthropist. The white stone mosque was built atop the 14th century tomb of a well respected Sufi scientist and today is an important mosque in the country.
Modern Architecture
Beyond the 19th and 20th century buildings is yet another layer in the mix of eclectic buildings in this city. The downtown boasts modern architecture that has made Baku famous worldwide.
Fans of Formula 1 races will recognize some of the buildings we’ll show you because the course follows a figure of eight around downtown, including Icheri Sheher. The race is held in September, but when we visited in June, crews were already out setting up the race course and spectator stands. We thought there must only be a couple of months in the year when they aren’t setting up or taking down the race course.
Flame Towers
The iconic symbols of Baku, three tall Flame Towers, are proudly displayed on top of a hill in the middle of the city. This prominent position allows you to see them from many places, including the historic centre. Azerbaijan’s nickname is ‘Land of Fire’ due to the prevalence of natural gas deposits close to the surface of the earth. The shape of these towers represents flames and indicates how closely fire is tied to the country’s history. The towers hold apartments, offices, and a hotel.
The towers are even more beautiful at night when they are illuminated. The lighting sequence transitions from flickering flames to the colours of Azerbaijan’s flag, blue, red and green.
Caspian Sea
In actuality, the Caspian is a salt water lake rather than a sea, but it played a monumental role in Baku’s history. Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Russia and Iran all share its shore. This made the large lake ideal for shipping during the Silk Trade of the Middle Ages. Baku was a key port. Located far from the ocean, it is salt water because 11 million years ago it was connected to the Sea of Azov and the Black Sea. Covering an area of 386,400 square km (149,200 square mi), it is the largest lake by surface area in the world.
Today, the Caspian Sea is vital to Azerbaijan’s petroleum industry due to oil deposits below the lake. There are several offshore wells, which unfortunately are polluting of the historic lake.
Baku Promenade
This long, paved walkway travels beside the Caspian Sea for almost 4 km. From Baku Promenade, you have great views of the famous Flame Towers high above. As well, you can see some of the city’s other modern buildings. During the day, the promenade is quiet, but in the evening, it’s a popular spot for families and friends to gather.
The city’s nickname is ‘City of Winds’ due to the fierce winds that consistently blow off the Caspian Sea. They weren’t very intense when we were there but the breeze did provide a nice cooling effect from the hot sun. At 26 m below sea level, it can get very hot in Baku so the winds are a welcome relief.
You can find kiosks selling ice cream and drinks as well as a large shopping mall along the promenade. There’s even a small amusement park with rides and vendors renting bikes and scooters. Locals seemed to rent them just to ride up and down the boardwalk for fun rather than for transportation.
Another strange attraction along the promenade is Mini Venice Baku where you can take a gondola ride on an artificial canal.
Carpet Museum
On the side of the boardwalk is another unusual looking building. Designed to replicate a rolled-up carpet, the building is home to the carpet museum. Carpet weaving has been an important craft in Azerbaijan’s history. The museum has exhibits of old carpets, weaving techniques as well as examples of other heritage arts and crafts.
Highland Park (Dagustu Park)
The best place to see the Flame Towers is from Highland Park, located on a hill above the city. From the park you look almost directly at the unusually shaped towers. This spot also gives you a panoramic view of the large city.
Also in the park is Shahidlar Monument with an eternal flame. This is yet another reminder of the fires that used to be prevalent in the region. Between the monument and the towers is Martyrs’ Lane. Here, you’ll find a long row of monuments for those who lost their lives in the Black January event and the Nagorno-Karabakh War.
Black January is named for the day in 1990 when the Soviet army killed hundreds of anti-Soviet citizens who were calling for independence from the Soviet Union. The Nagorno-Karabakh wars are territorial and ethnic conflicts between Azerbaijan and Armenia over the disputed lands of Nagorno-Karabakh. Although a disputed area for generations, recent battles began in the late1980s and early 1990s when the Soviet Union broke up and the artificial borders were enforced. Peace was attained for a while until fighting resumed in 2016 and again in 2020. There are memorials in every city that we visited for Azerbaijani soldiers killed in these battles as well as from WWII.
You can reach Highland Park by funicular or by walking up 600 steps. Both begin behind the Carpet Museum.
Heydar Aliyev Centre
Fans of modern architecture will love Heydar Aliyev Centre. The soft, curvy lines that extend from rooftop to the ground are candy for your eyes. The centre was built in 2012 and has won several international architecture awards. Unfortunately, the grounds were under construction so we couldn’t get a full view of the attractive building. It functions as an art exhibition space and museum complex.
It was named after Heydar Aliyev, a long-standing dictatorial president of Azerbaijan. He was installed as the country’s leader when a coup ousted the democratically elected president in 1993. Aliyev remained president until months before his death (2003) when he named his son as his successor. Ilham Aliyev is still president today.
How to get to Heydar Aliyev Centre
It’s easy to visit from Old Town (Icheri Sheher). The Metro travels to within 2 blocks of Heydar Aliyev Centre. Take the red line from Icheri Sheher metro station to Nariman Narimanov, then walk to the centre.
Heydar Mosque
At the far northern end of the city is the large Heydar Mosque. Built in 2014, it was also built to commemorate the former president. The best time to visit is at night when it is beautifully lit. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside.
Overall, it’s an interesting city, with a lot of money and many different attractions to keep locals and tourists entertained.
Getting to Baku
Currently you can not enter Azerbaijan through its land borders. You can exit to Georgia, Russia and Iran by land, but the borders are closed for entry. The easiest way to reach Baku then, is by flying into Baku’s Heydar Aliyev International Airport. Depending on your home country, you may need a visa to enter. Getting one online is the easiest way and takes approximately a week to process. You can find them here.
Baku is located in the middle, on the right side of the map below. Click on the image to be directed to an interactive map.
Getting around Baku
Walking is the best way to get around the Old City and Nizami Pedestrian Street. For sites further out, you can use the rideshare apps Yango and Bolt. We used both and found Yango had shorter wait times and cheaper fees, but we had more hiccups with them. Also remember that traffic is very bad during rush hour. The population of Baku is 2.5 million but it seems like there are 4.5 million cars.
Another option is the efficient Metro. Reloadable cards can be purchased for 2 AZN and then loaded with enough for your trips (40-50 gapik (cents)/ride). Metro cards can be shared.
Some of the metro stations are decorated with chandeliers and fancy pillars, but they are not as elaborate as what we saw in Tashkent. Pictures are not allowed, but we snuck a couple. Nixami Station is the nicest one.
Where to stay in Baku
There are many choices for every budget in Baku. Since most of the sites in Baku are in or near the Old City, that is typically the best part of the city to stay. That means staying within walking distance of Shirvanshahs’ Palace or Maiden Tower. The other option is to stay near Nizami Street. Here you will find a lively atmosphere and be close to many local and international restaurants.
Where to eat in Baku
The streets in and around Nizami Street have a large concentration of restaurants. It is always a busy part of town, but there seemed to be more Azerbaijanis than foreigners. Our favourite restaurant was Nergiz. They offer very tasty dishes with perfectly seasoned meats and vegetables.
Click on the link to read our Travel Tips for Azerbaijan.
To read more of our adventures in Azerbaijan, click here.
Coming Next – Mud Volcanoes and Petroglyphs in Azerbaijan’s Gobustan
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To read about more of our adventures go to Destinations.
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