Described as a fusion of Caucasus vernacular and Byzantine styles, the Debed Canyon monasteries, Sanahin, Haghpat and Akhtala, are unmissable landmarks when visiting Armenia. The architectural features in these monasteries give them a sacred aura. Their stone walls are adorned with centuries-old engravings and frescoes, while tombstones serve as floor tiles. Though the monasteries were partially restored, they were not overdone like others, and it’s their unfinished look that makes them so captivating.
Located in the Debed Canyon, not far from the Georgian border, the remote location of these monasteries results in fewer tourists. That’s too bad because their wonderful old details should be seen more often. Join us as we explore the medieval gems of Sanahim, Haghpat and Akhtala Monasteries.
Sanahin Monastery
High above the Debed River is a monastery unlike any other. In 966 AD, Queen Khosrovanush, wife of Armenian King Ashot Bagratuni III, ordered the establishment of what would become one of the finest architectural monuments in Armenia. This is the same Bagratid Dynasty we learned of in Sevanavank and Haghartsin.
The oldest building in the monastery, St. Astvatsatsin Church, was already in place when the queen founded the monastery. As the complex expanded, each new building was added as if it were an extension, rather than an independent church. As a result, you can almost wander from one to the other without going outside. And yet, each has its own distinct look, feel and use.
We knew we were in for something special as we approached the gavit of St. Astvatsatsin. A floor of uneven gravestones is the first of many unique features in the space. They are memorials for priests and monks buried in the monastery and create one of the most unusual floors we have set foot on.
On top of the uneven floor are several stone columns decorated with 10th century carvings. They hold up stone arches that curve under a barrel ceiling. These rows of small arches give the room a distinct appearance, and the dark basalt stone adds a mysterious ambience to the space. Standing inside this hall, it is easy to imagine the stories that these old walls heard and the feet that walked over these interesting floors.
A gavit is the foyer located outside the main nave in Armenian churches. They are used as meeting halls or as an overflow area for parishioners who couldn’t get inside the nave.
The original St. Astvatsatsin Church (Holy Mother of God) was closed, so we couldn’t see inside. We heard that it was once covered in frescoes, but unfortunately, none have survived.
Leading off the large foyer is another gavit with even more character. Sculpted columns decorated with crosses and scripture stand below a reddish domed ceiling. It was the gavit for St. Amenaprkich Church (Holy Saviour). Queen Khosrovanush built the church and gavit to honour her sons, Gurgen and Sevak Bagratid.
Beyond the foyer, the sanctuary has been restored, so it doesn’t have the same character as the other rooms. St. Amenaprkich is the main church of the site.
The Queen’s sons, Gurgen and Sevak, founded the seminary, which was located in a long room between the two churches. In the Middle Ages, Sanahin Monastery was renowned for its talented calligraphers who copied manuscripts and religious texts. A lot of that work would have been completed in this space.
Beside the complex is the school’s library that once held the oldest collection of books in Armenia. Deep niches in the walls would have once held these texts as well as relics, but today they display pottery and broken pieces of carved stones. Many of the books can now be found in the Matenadaran Museum in Yerevan.
After exploring these wonderful interiors, you will want to see the complex from the outside, where you can find a few other interesting details. The first is found on the rear wall of St. Amenaprkich Church. High up on the building is a sculpture of the Queen’s sons holding a miniature replica of the church.
Another building to watch for is the three-story bell tower. Its unique design includes large red crosses on three of its tall walls. Behind the bell tower is the small St. Gregory Chapel. The chapel’s entry is beside the library.
Sanahin is a hodgepodge of buildings built over several centuries, but its odd mix of styles gives it so much character, making it a wonderful place to visit.
Mendz Er Cave
In the cliffs below Sanahin Monastery is a cave that once provided a secret passage to the monastery. The other half of the cave was a 9th century dwelling. Today, it is a museum filled with old pottery and household items. The cave doesn’t feel too safe nowadays, though, because wooden pillars seem to be holding up the ceiling. The best part of visiting the cave is the view of Debed Canyon.
Haghpat Monastery
Ten years after founding Sanahin, the Queen established Haghpat Monastery. Surrounded by a stone wall, the monastery stands on the edge of the heavily treed Debed Canyon directly across from Sanahin. We could even see Sanahin from Haghpat.
Before entering the nave in St. Nishan Church, take time to explore its large gavit (foyer). This spacious room is the highlight of the complex. Its walls still boast many original engravings, including khachkars on the walls, as well as carvings on the pillars, doorways and eaves.
The wonder continues inside, where gorgeous frescoes adorn the walls in the main nave. Some of the paintings are 800 years old. Above the altar is a depiction of Christ the Pantocrator, an orthodox icon of Jesus as the Almighty.
Historians believe that one of the architects for this church worked on several other noteworthy churches, including Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, the Armenian Ani Cathedral, now located in Turkey, as well as the small Marmashen Monastery, near Gyumri.
Like Sanahin, Haghpat was an important centre for teaching the art of copying and illustrating manuscripts. In addition, the school offered subjects in science and philosophy. The library followed suit with an extensive collection of religious, philosophical, historical and scientific texts. These books and manuscripts were stored in earthenware containers located below the library floor. During times of invasion, though, these texts were moved to nearby caves for safekeeping. You can still see the jars under the library floor.
The grounds have a few more interesting sites, including chapels, a 13th century bell tower and sepulchres decorated with carved walls and topped by khachkars.
Entrance to Sanahin and Haghpat is free; Opening hours – vary with the season, but are generally open during daylight hours.
The Sanahin and Haghpat Legend
With two fascinating monasteries built only 10 years apart and located across the canyon from each other, you must know that there is a legend attached to them. The folklore says that the architect from Sanahim was still working on completing the buildings when he and his son had an argument. Not long after the disagreement, the son, who had been working with his father, began designing Haghpat. The son’s designs for the new monastery included taller buildings than those at Sanahin. They were so tall, in fact, that the father could see them from across the canyon. When the father went to see his son’s work, the son claimed it had Haghpat (strong walls). The father replied, but his is Sanahin (that one is older than this one). And so, the monasteries were named by their architects.
Sanahin and Haghpat are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are very special places for lovers of old architecture and for members of the Armenian Apostolic Church. We feel fortunate to have seen them.
Akhtala Fortress and Monastery
Further north, not far from the border with Georgia, is a fortress and church complex that is seemingly lost in time. Built in the 10th century, Akhtala Fortress’ tall walls are still visible from below. Behind those walls, though, the church is almost all that is left.
St. Astvatsatsin Church was added in the 12th century, when the fortress transitioned into a Georgian Orthodox monastery. Much later, in the 18th century, it was transformed again, this time into a Greek Orthodox church. At the time, there were many Greek labourers working in the nearby mines.
From the outside, the church doesn’t look much different than many Armenian churches. Once you step inside, though, it will soon become one of your favourites. The old stone walls provided the perfect easel to display 13th century religious frescoes.
Scattered in the yard are ruins of monks’ cells and bath houses. They are in such a bad state, though, that they are barely recognizable.
The monastery is very far from Yerevan and is even less visited than the other two, but we’re glad we were able to see its wonderful frescoes.
Entrance – 100AMD (€0.25); Opening Hours – 10am-6pm
How to visit Sanahin, Haghpat and Akhtala Monasteries
There are a few private tours offered in Yerevan to these three monasteries, but it makes for a very long day. Since we were already travelling around the country, we chose to spend a couple of nights in Vanadzor and visit them on our own. To do this, we hired a taxi in Vanadzor to take us to all three in a day. He asked us for 15,000 AMD (€ 34) for the 200 km trip, which was much lower than the ride-share app GG quoted. We ended up giving him a generous tip.
Another option is to take a tour from Tbilisi, which is actually closer than Yerevan. There are also tour/transfers that stop at these sites on the drive between Yerevan and Tbilisi. You can find them online.
Vanadzor
The northern city of Vanadzor is not often on the regular tourist trail. Although the city doesn’t have much to offer, its location close to the monasteries meant we spent two nights in the city. We did our best to find places worth visiting and discovered a few large public squares. Most of the city, though, has decrepit Soviet buildings, which lowers your overall impression of Vanadzor.
If you’re a fan of Soviet art, there are many in Vanadzor’s city centre.
The worn-out city is not very pretty. In fact, it’s a bit depressing. Vanadzor’s only asset is its location to the historic monasteries in the Debed Canyon. We had originally planned to stay in Alaverdi, a town closer to the sites, but we’re glad we didn’t, because it is even smaller and has fewer services than Vanadzor.
Getting to Vanadzor
Marshrutkas travel between Vanadzor and Yerevan or Gyumri. A few operate between smaller centres, but often a taxi is more convenient and not too expensive. You can also travel by train to Gyumri or Yerevan. The stations are typical Soviet structures.
If you are travelling between Georgia and Armenia, you can also be dropped off in Vanadzor.
You can find Vanadzor near the top of the map below. Haghpat is located at the very top. Sanahin and Akhtala are only a few kilometres from Haghpat. It is an interactive map, so you can zoom-in, or click on the markers.
Where to stay and eat in Vanadzor
There are not a lot of hotels in the city, but there are a few located within walking distance of Hayt and Artsakh Squares, or Sanitorium Lake. In addition to the enjoyable public spaces, this is where you will find most of the restaurants. We had a great meal at Masoor Family Restaurant near the fountains.
Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Armenia.
To read more of our adventures in Armenia, click here.
Coming Next – Things to See In Gyumri
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