Most of Tajikistan’s population lives in small towns and villages that are scattered around the country’s rugged landscape. The contrast between those simple, rural communities and the modern look of Dushanbe was quite startling. With a few days to explore the country’s capital, we discovered a city with a unique and quirky character.
Travelling to Dushanbe from northern Tajikistan allowed us to see some of the amazing landscapes this country has to offer. We began driving through the Fann Mountains where we had the arid mountain views we’d come to expect in the country.
Not far from Dushanbe, we crossed over a mountain pass that brought us into a land that was completely different. Instead of brown, dry mountains we were now looking at a range of snowcapped mountains that dropped swiftly into deep, green valleys. The dramatic change from one side of the pass to the other is remarkable. By the time we arrived in Dushanbe (750 m/2,460 ft), however, we were back to the brown, arid mountains.
The name Dushanbe translates in English to Monday. In its early days it was the site of a market where nearby villagers came to buy and sell their goods. As you guessed, the market was held on Mondays, so when the marketplace developed into a city, it was named Monday.
When researching what to do in Dushanbe, we had low expectations when we read that one of its main sites is the tallest flag pole in Central Asia. At 165 m (541 ft), it’s actually the 4th highest in the world, so maybe it is a big deal. Pun intended.
Other than the flagpole, there may not be a lot of traditional tourist sites, but we really enjoyed exploring the streets of this lively city. Walking through Dushanbe felt like being in a strange land of mixed up genres. We passed ornate Russian Czar buildings, art deco street lamps, Jetson’s style apartments, futuristic road decorations and odd Soviets murals. Seeing this unusual assortment of architecture, often in the same block, was a feast for the eyes.
Dusti Square
As with many Central Asian cities, there are a lot of statues and monuments in Dushanbe. The most prominent is in Dusti Square. Here a large statue of Ismoil Somoni holding a golden scepter stands in front of a large golden arch. In the 10th century he ruled over Tajikistan and much of Central Asia and is now considered the founder of Tajikistan. At the other end of the square is the extremely tall Independence Monument. It was built in 2011 to commemorate Tajikistan’s 20th anniversary of independence.
Rudaki Park
In the middle of the city is the large Rudaki Park. It was named after beloved Tajik poet, Rudaki. In addition to the park being named after him, a large statue of the poet takes centre stage. Surrounding him are some of the many fountains we saw in the city.
Beside the park is the ornate Presidential Palace. Unusual stork-shaped lights decorate the view of the palace from Rudaki Park.
There is a lot of new construction happening in Dushanbe. Much of it seems to be modern skyscrapers being built where old Soviet buildings once stood. Almost everywhere we looked, we could see dozens of cranes hovering over new buildings sites.
Wall of Great Writers
One interesting remnant from Soviet times that hasn’t been torn down is Wall of Great Writers. The façade of the Writers’ Union Building has 11 life size statues of writers and poets from Tajikistan and other Central Asian countries. In the surrounding garden there is a statue of Tajik writer Ayni and Soviet writer Maxim Gorky having a conversation.
Istiqlol Complex
The eclectic mix of architecture continues in other parts of the city. A historic Persian-style mosque is neighbour to a funky, new tower. Istiqlol Complex is a brand new installation in the middle of a large, open cement square. The complex was built for public concerts and festivals, but was very quiet when we were there. From the square we could see the largest mosque in Central Asia, appropriately named Grand Mosque. It’s traditional design is very different from the rocket-like Istiqlol tower.
Navruz Palace
The final strange site we visited in the city was Kokhi Navruz (Navruz Palace). It is a new complex built in a classic style on the shore of the artificial Komsomolskoe Lake. It was closed when we tried to visit, but apparently is quite ornate inside. The palace offers a strange array of services; everything from meeting rooms and wedding venues to a movie theatre and a bowling alley.
From the shore of the artificial lake you can see the Presidential Palace. We hadn’t realized until we had this view that it was built on a hill.
With all of its quirks, we found Dushanbe to be a great city. It’s a good place to pass the time for a few days before or after your trips to see Tajikistan’s beautiful Fann or Pamir Mountains.
How to get to Dushanbe
The capital of Tajikistan is easily reached by air and its international airport is not far from the city centre. Driving by car or taxi from northern Tajikistan is easy. A good highway drives through the Fann Mountains and is a very nice way to arrive. Share-taxis going to or returning from the north use the northern bus station. If you’re travelling to or from the Pamirs however, the road from Khorog is quite awful and requires 4WD vehicles. Share-jeeps to the Pamirs leave from the share-taxi stand in the city’s south. It’s listed on Google Maps as ‘Taxi to Pamir’.
Where to stay in Dushanbe
Most of the better restaurants and sites are within walking distance of Rudaki Park so try to find a hotel in this area. We stayed at Almaz Guesthouse. In addition to being an old mansion, we recommend it as a good budget hotel with large comfortable rooms and a good breakfast. You can find it on-line.
Where to eat in Dushanbe
We kept returning to our favourite restaurant located not far from the Opera House. Traktir Restaurant is a Ukrainian restaurant with delicious food and a nice setting.
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Coming Next – Pamir Highway – An Independent Travel Guide
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