Wandering along the narrow cobblestone streets in Brașov’s historic centre made us think we’d stepped into medieval Romania. The best part of Brașov’s perfect Old Town is that it hasn’t been intruded upon by modern construction. With well maintained heritage buildings, a stunning centre square and towers from the old city wall, you will love exploring Brașov’s Old Town.
Although the history of the town goes back to ancient times, it wasn’t until the 13th century that the town we see today was established. At that time Transylvania was under the rule of the Hungarian King. Because Brașov was located at the intersection of important trading routes, the king sent Teutonic Knights to the area. The knights founded the city of Brașov in 1211. The king also needed these communities to be permanent so he offered large incentives, such as tax breaks, to Saxons who would colonize much of Transylvania, including Brașov. The Saxons were merchants, farmers and artisans and due to the king’s incentives, they prospered in this new land and became quite wealthy. In the end this wealth made them targets. Like many cities in Transylvania, fortification walls were built around the city to protect them from raiders and invaders.
We will show you more fortified churches and towns in our post Transylvania’s Fortified Churches, Discover Medieval Sibiu and Fortified City of Sighișoara.
Council Square
Located in the heart of Transylvania, Brașov’s historic centre is very large and unlike many other European cities, it escaped damage during WWII. At its centre is the pretty Piata Sfatului, Council Square. Today it is one of the nicest medieval plazas in Europe. As we entered the square from the pedestrian street Strada Republica, we stood in awe at the beautifully restored buildings that enclosed the square. To top off this perfect scene its background includes small, tree-covered hills. For us they were covered in orange and red hues of fall.
A pretty, yellow building in the middle of the square commands your attention. Council House (Casa Sfatului) was originally built in the 15th century but was damaged and rebuilt a few times in different styles. It is said that during the Middle Ages a pillory once stood in the middle of the square. It was used to publicly torture ‘witches’ and criminals.
This is the same community who built Bran Castle, famous for its connection to Bram Stoker’s Dracula. You can read about the castle in our post Dracula’s Bran Castle.
Squeezed between the row houses is the unassuming Assumption of Virgin Mary Orthodox Church.
The square is a popular spot and when we were there it was teeming with locals and tourists alike. Most were sharing a meal or drinks on one of the many outdoor patios.
These lovely heritage buildings don’t stop at the square, but rather continue for many blocks. It is a great area to stroll along the streets and admire the 18th and 19th centuries buildings in various pastel shades. As we walked beside them, we loved to imagine who may have lived in these homes centuries ago. Many of them have been restored, but not all. But even those run-down buildings give this Old Town an undeniable charm.
As you explore Old Brașov, make sure you don’t miss the narrow Strada Sforii (Rope Street). It is said to be the narrowest street in Europe.
Black Church
Barely a block away from Council Square is the imposing Black Church (Biserica Neagra). This massive 800 year old Gothic church is one of most impressive in Eastern Europe. Built by the Transylvanian Saxons, the Lutheran church received its nickname after a 17th century fire blackened its exterior walls.
Towers & Gates
The wealth that the Transylvania Saxons gained made them targets. Between the 15th and 17th centuries a wall was built to fortify the city against the invading Ottoman. Parts of the wall are still standing and are a fun part of the city to explore. On the slope of a hill above town you can see Black and White Towers. Black Tower (Turnul Negru), wasn’t as dark as we expected, but from its hillside location we had a great view of Black Church below.
Not far away, on the same slope, is White Tower (Turnul Alb). We first saw it poking above the rooftops from Council Square. Below White Tower is Graft Bastion. As well as being a part of the wall, it also served as a bridge.
In addition to the towers, there are a few old gates around Old Town. Catherine’s Gate (Poarta Ecaterinei) is by far the prettiest. Its pointed spires, turrets and metal flags makes it look like a perfect tiny castle. The turrets are said to symbolize the city’s judicial autonomy. What we see today was once part of a larger monastery that stood on this spot.
Beside Catherine Gate is Șchei Gate (Poarta Șchei). It is much newer and was built to accommodate taller traffic. Today a street runs through it.
On the other side of Old Town is Weaver’s Bastion (Bastionul Tesatorilor). A low, medieval gate leads inside where there are three levels of wooden combat galleries. It was the largest bastion in Brașov.
Churches
In addition to the towers and gates there are a few restored Orthodox Churches in the historical centre. We saw the pretty, yellow Church of St Paraskeva. With 16 windows on its dome along with 10 small towers and a belfry, the church has a distinctive look.
St Nicholas Orthodox Church is a painted church. There are not many frescoes left on its exterior, but inside the large, open sanctuary has dark reliefs on its walls and ceilings. We would see more painted churches when we travelled through northern Romania. You can read more about these churches in our post Painted Churches of Romania.
Straja Hill Fortress
High above the city is Straja Hill Fortress (Cetăţuia de pe Strajă). The 16th century stone structure replaced a much older wooden one. The fortress was used as a watchtower, depository and a prison, but is no longer used today. It was closed when we were there but it was worth a visit to be able to walk around its massive stone exterior. We could see the walls of the citadel from Council Square below, and from the fortress we had nice views of Brașov and its surrounding hills.
There is so much to see in Brașov. When you visit, plan to spend a couple of days here so you can fully immerse yourself in its history.
How to get to Brașov
Brașov International Airport is located 15 km from the city. Driving to the Brașov is also easy as it is connected by well maintained highways to both Bucharest and Sibiu. The drive from Bucharest takes you through the beautiful Valea Prahovei in the Carpathian mountains. You can read about this drive in our post Peleș and Pelișor Castles.
Where to stay and eat in Brașov
The best place to stay is in the city’s Old Town. There are many small and large hotels, guesthouses and apartments available in Old Town. The city is very walkable and safe, even after dark. You’ll most likely want to eat at one of the outdoor patios in and around Council Square.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Brasov.
Thank you to Romania Tourism for allowing us to use their map.
Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Romania.
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Coming Next – Transylvania’s Fortified Churches
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