If you’re seeking a landscape where tall, green mountains rise straight up from narrow valleys and green hills are dotted with medieval villages, then look no further than Tusheti in northern Georgia. People first settled in this mountainous region to escape persecution, and brought with them unique customs and fascinating stories. It is this combination of mountain scenery, authentic timeworn villages and distinct culture that captivated our imagination and enticed us to visit Tusheti.

The protected area of Tusheti lies in Georgia’s far north, along the borders of Chechnya and Dagestan, in the Russian Federation. When Georgia adopted Christianity in the 4th century, many who didn’t want to convert found refuge in these mountains. The area is very isolated, so these migrants found they could continue to practice their pagan and animist beliefs without worry. Surrounded by 4,000 m tall mountains, they found the region to be not only remote but also had the perfect terrain to raise their sheep. It’s not known for certain where exactly these people first migrated from. Many likely came from the mountains near Ananuri Fortress, now on the Georgian Military Road. They spoke a dialect of Georgian and are now called Tush.

Another group are believed to have originated in Nakh, in the northern Caucasus of present-day Chechnya. They are called Tsova Tush or Batsbi. Their language is based on Nakh, rather than Georgian. Most of the Batsbi left Tusheti many generations ago to move to the southern Kakheti plains, not far from Telavi.

The 50 original villages were spread far and wide across this land. In the 1800s, there were 5,000 residents in Tusheti, divided between these valleys. Only 10 villages remain today; the other 40 have been abandoned. All of them are situated between 1,800 and 2,400 metres of elevation and are grouped into four communities, based on the valley where they’re located.

Originally, the Tush were shepherds and sustenance farmers. Their animals, mostly sheep, grazed in the bucolic fields of these green mountains in the summer. In winter, almost all moved down the valleys, below the snow line. After several generations of living in these harsh conditions, some Tush families began moving further away for the winter, eventually, all the way to Zemo Alvani, 77 km (48mi) away. Nowadays, almost all live in Zemo Alvani at 350m (1100ft) during the winter and only come to Tusheti from mid June to mid October. The year round population of Tusheti is only 10-20 people, but in the summer it grows to roughly 400. Still far less than the population in the 1800s.

Today, many of the Tush are still farmers, but now, some breed cattle as well as sheep. Those who still do make the trek up to Tusheti every spring bring everything with them, including their sheep, cattle, chickens, cats and dogs. The sheep and cattle take a few days to walk the 77 plus kilometre trip and go over the same pass we drove over on our way into the region. It was a harrowing drive over the Abano Pass, so it’s difficult to image thousands of sheep, cattle and their herders walking this route. Our host family said a dozen cows died on the trip this spring, mostly by falling off the cliffs. You can read about that drive in our post Driving To Tusheti In Georgia’s Remote North.

Although very secluded, traders often passed through these valleys, exchanging not only goods, but customs and beliefs. The result was a variety of influences on Tush culture. An interesting one is that they do not raise pigs, and in fact, pork is not allowed in Tusheti at all. It is considered unclean, which may be related to their early encounters with Muslims from Chechnya and Dagestan, generations ago. As a reminder, do not bring pork of any kind into the region.

Tusheti is located in the upper right section of the first map below. The main village of Omalo is marked on the interactive map. The second map is an expansion of this area and includes the Tusheti villages we visited.

One of the best ways to explore the mountainous landscapes of Tusheti is on foot. While there are a few multi-day hikes, we chose to do day-hikes between villages. Many of the walks follow the gravel roads, but there are usually a few areas where trails allow you to get off the road for a couple of kilometres. The roads don’t typically have much traffic anyway, but you do feel more connected to nature on a trail.

We visited five villages, each revealing a different side of their history and their way of life, both past and present. Let us show you the remote villages in Tusheti, and the walks between them. Maybe it will inspire you to visit these authentic villages someday.

The most common starting point in Tusheti is the village of Omalo. It is a little confusing because it consists of Upper (Zemo) and Lower (Kvemo) neighbourhoods, which are approximately 2 km and 200 m in elevation apart. Located in the Chaghma community, Omalo is the administrative capital of Tusheti.

Lower Omalo (1,880m/5,900ft) is less of a village and more of a collection of acreages. Some of the homes have been in the family for generations, but there are several newer ones as well. The best thing about staying in Lower Omalo is the view. In front of you, the gently sloping hills lead your eyes to the high Caucasus Mountains in the distance. It’s as if the landscape were specifically designed to be photographed or painted.

Most of the farms in Lower Omalo are family homes, but a few operate as bed and breakfasts. We stayed at a lovely locally run guesthouse in Lower Omalo, and as a result, we have a soft spot for this picturesque spot.

Even though it’s a short distance, the walk between Lower and Upper Omalo is quite nice. You’ll pass between the farmhouses of the lower village before walking beside horses grazing in the pastures. There is a road between the two communities, so you can drive, but the slower pace of walking allows you to feel more connected to this rural setting.

Upper Omalo is tucked in a saddle between two hills. When you arrive on foot, the final hill before Upper Omalo hides it from view, so you’re treated to a fantastic surprise when you crest the top. Although this sheltered location doesn’t allow sweeping views, its placement below Keselo Fortress gives it a jaw-dropping setting. Looking at it from above, we could easily picture medieval life taking place in the fairytale village, and we never tired of this view in our few days in the area.

Upper Omalo is a mix of restored and ramshackle homes. The older homes were built in the traditional style using slate for the walls and roofs. This is the same construction we would see throughout Tusheti. These slate homes sit beside newer ones, built with a mix of wood and stone. Today, many operate as guesthouses, a couple are open as restaurants, and at least one is a store. You can hardly call it touristy, though.

In medieval times, the Tush were in constant threat of attack from Chechens, Daghestanis and even from Uzbekistan’s Amir Temur. Their proximity to the first two makes sense, but Uzbekistan is quite far away, showing the reach of this short lived dynasty. To protect themselves from attackers, the Tush built towers that acted as both watchtowers and mini fortresses. Tusheti towers were 4 to 6 stories high and built from local, dark brown slate. They were usually stand alone tower and had only tiny windows, usually located near their tops. We would see them in a few villages in Tusheti, and their dark appearance adds a bit of mystery to this already fascinating land.

We saw similar towers in Svaneti. You can read about those in our post about the main town Mestia, the hike between Mestia and Ushguli, and in Ushguli: Georgia’s Prettiest Village.

Residents from Omalo built their towers clumped together on a small knoll above the village. Instead of being an imposing fortress, it almost looks cute in its awkward placement. Unfortunately, Keselo Fortress (2,138m) is mostly in ruin, but a few of its restored towers allow you to appreciate how it looked in medieval times. Take notice of the low-angled roofs on these towers, and we’ll compare them to those we saw in the village of Dartlo, described below.

During times of attack, extended families would retreat to these towers. The ground floor, called Bashte, was used as a barn and for storage. The top floor, called Cherkho, was a guardroom and sleeping quarters for the men. Families slept in the middle floors where a fire was kept in the centre of the room.

One of the best parts of walking up to Keselo Fortress is the breathtaking 360° views. Looking down the valleys, we were mesmerized by the picturesque scenery where layers of green ridges crisscrossed into the distance. From this point, you can see how these towers could keep an eye out for attackers and send signals to other villages in the same valley.

If you’re lucky, you may see hawks soaring above, taking advantage of the thermals.

On the walk up to Keselo Fortress you will pass a Tusheti shrine, but don’t get too close. Access to most Tusheti shrines is forbidden to foreigners, especially women. We’ll explain more on that shortly.

On your way back to Lower Omalo, take a detour to side of the steep gorge. This spot will leave you awe of the rugged terrain seen throughout Tusheti. It also gives you a bird’s eye view of the lower part of the village.


We first saw the hamlet of Shenako (2,080m/6,820ft) from a distance, where the homes were huddled together in the middle of a wide-open valley. We noticed a group of buildings on the opposite side of the valley and learned they were used as winter houses, but are abandoned.

Shenako and nearby Diklo are also in Chaghma, the same community as Omalo.

Like many of these villages, the homes in Shenako are tightly packed together, with only narrow lanes between them. This was done to offer the villagers more protection from invaders. Most of them are traditional slate buildings with elegant timber work designs on the balconies. This is the typical architecture in Tusheti, but for us, they were always charming to see.

Although cute, they were built for practicality. The ground floor is used for livestock and families live on the upper floors.

Above the slate homes is one of the best preserved Georgian Orthodox churches in Tusheti. The 19th century St. George Church is perfectly placed in front of tall mountains. Inside, its walls have been freshly decorated with portraits of orthodox saints and Bible stories. Appropriate dress is recommended to enter the church.

Most Tush are now Christian, but many generations ago, they melded some of their pagan beliefs with Christianity. For example, they believe in one god, named ymerti, who has several children, called chvtishvili. These children include people from history such as Jesus, St. Mary, Georgian kings and Orthodox saints. But several are mythical creatures who fight demons.

Another set of beliefs that has carried over from ancient times includes their views on men and women. They believe in the dualistic principles, such as heaven and hell, pure and impure, consciousness and subconsciousness. Men represent heaven and purity; women, are shown as hell and impurity. As you travel through Tusheti, you’ll likely come across many shrines (khati). They are used for worship and rituals. To ensure their purity, only men are allowed to visit, and some do not allow foreign men. Most have signs to ensure non-Tush, especially females, don’t get too close.

One of these shrines can be found in the yard behind the church. Some, like this one, have goat horns on its roof.

There’s a couple of guesthouses and cafes in this cute little community and it would be a nice, quiet village to stay if you have your own car.

Located 4.5 km up the road from Shenako is Diklo. The village we see today is not the original medieval settlement. In the 1800s, Dagestani forces destroyed the old one that was located near the fortress. After that attack, the village relocated to its current site. As a result, it is not very cute, either in its setting or the buildings. We didn’t come to see Diklo anyway; we wanted to see its fortress.

From the edge of Diklo we could see the old fortress straddling a precipitous ridge in the distance. You can just make out its towers on the light green point in the picture below.

You can drive part way on the road to the fortress, but you have to walk the last kilometre. There’s not much left of the old fortress (2,265m/7,400ft), but it is worth the walk. From the remaining walls you can see that it once had a large footprint on this skinny ridge. It must have been something to see when it was still standing.

Standing on this precipitous ridge, you can also appreciate what a challenging place it would have been to build the stone structure. We could see partial walls barely hanging on to the edge of the sharp cliffs. It’s incredible to think that the Dagestanis were able to scale these sheer cliffs when they ravaged this fortress.

From the fortress we were treated to wonderful views of the surrounding peaks. We could even see the mountains of Dagestan, where the invaders came from.

We frequently saw Georgian patrol helicopters flying over head as we neared the village. We realized why they were there when we learned that Diklo is within 5 km of the border with Russia. Before visiting the fortress, you must stop at the border control office to show your passport and obtain a permit. Their office is located above the homes of Diklo, which is a bit of a detour, but it’s worth it to see this fortress up close. Don’t forget your passport.

The easiest way to reach Shenako and Diklo is by car. Shenako is 6.7 km (4.2mi) from Lower Omalo by road, and Diklo is 12.6 km (7 ¾mi) from Lower Omalo. If you’re driving yourself, be aware that the road is quite rough in many places, so a high clearance 4WD is recommended. Most guesthouses have 4x4s and will drive you. They typically charge 150 GEL (€47) per car for a one way trip. If they don’t have a car, your guesthouse will know someone in the village who will drive you for a fee.

Walking to Shenako and Diklo

A better way to visit these villages is on foot. If you’re staying in Omalo, you can easily walk to both Shenako and Diklo return in a day. The walk is mostly flat, except for the elevation loss and regain when crossing the Pirikiti Alazani River. You won’t be far from Omalo, when you begin to have views of the gorgeous tall peaks in the distance.

On the way to Shenako, there a few places where you have the option of taking a hiking trail or the road. One of the trails begins not long after leaving Omalo. It isn’t marked and doesn’t look like much of a trail from the road, but it is actually in quite good condition. (trailhead GPS waypoint N42° 21.958′ E45° 38.580′) It rejoins the road and then the begins again at GPS waypoint N42° 21.993′ E45° 38.560′.

From there it scales down a torturous 300m to Shenako Pedestrian Bridge. By taking this trail you’ll cut off a bit of distance, but it is very steep both down and up. The bridge is made of loose logs and looks unstable, but is actually safe to cross. If you take the road, it is over two kilometres longer, but not as steep. If coming from Shenako, the trail is equally difficult to find, but begins at GPS waypoint N42° 21.976′ E45°39.253′.

After crossing the bridge and regaining the ridge, you’ll have a great view of Upper Omalo on the other side of the valley. It looks so close, but between us and it is a very steep gully.

There’s not much to see between Shenako and Diklo, but you have the choice between a 3 km (1.8mi) walk with 235m (770ft) elevation gain on the road or a hiking trail that adds almost 2 kms to the route. We met people who took the trail and saw a black bear, so stay alert when hiking all the trails in Tusheti. There is a sign on the road indicating the turnoff for the hike.

From Lower Omalo to Shenako: Distance – 4.2km (2 ½mi); Elevation loss – 310m (1,017ft), gain – 330m (1,083ft) ascent.
From Lower Omalo to Diklo Fortress: Distance – 10.3 km (6½mi); Elevation loss – 310m, gain – 675m (2,215ft).


Climbing the small hill above the Pirikiti Alazani River is the cutest village in Tusheti, at least of the ones we visited. When we first saw Dartlo (1,800m/5,900ft) from across the river, we couldn’t believe our eyes. Dark, stone towers rise high above the old slate houses, for an incredibly picturesque scene. The medieval town was recently restored and gives a great example of the vernacular architecture of these Tusheti villages.

Dartlo is in the community of Pirikiti Alazani, 15 km from Omalo.

In addition to admiring the view from afar, there are a few fascinating places to see in this small village. At the base of the hill are the ruins of a sandstone church, including its old bell. It was built in the 19th century, when Georgia was under Russian rule, but was built on top of local shrine. It was destroyed a few years later by local residents, and the shrine was restored. A sign says no women, but we came around the back before we saw the sign. This is one of the many areas with strict rules about men’s and women’s roles in religion in Tusheti.

Just above the river is something very unusual. A semicircle of 12 small, standing stones wraps around two in the centre. This was the setting for a medieval court, called Sabtcheo. The 12 stones around the outside were the seats for judges. The other two were used by the accuser and the accused. Crimes included theft, property damage and even murder. Penalties ranged from a fine of a chicken or a sheep to banishment from the village. Even if found guilty of murder, there was no death penalty.

This open-air court was in operation from the 12th to18th century. The black stone was for the head judge and in the18th century, this position was held by a female. This is almost unheard of in these patriarchal societies.

Across the small creek are two isolated old buildings. We were told they were used for people with cholera. It was a place for them to die.

As you walk through the village you’ll be enchanted by the wonderful display of the old slate buildings. In Tushetian architecture, locally sourced flat slate stones were piled on top of each other to form walls. Even their low angled roofs are built with slate. Mortar was not used, but the heavy roofs rest on the walls, compressing them. In the winter, snow would cover the strong roofs and weigh down the walls, making them even more compact. Many of the oldest homes have very small windows to help keep the interiors warm during winter.

Other common features are the wooden balconies, decorated with carved designs. These newer additions began when the Tush started travelling further south in the fall and were influenced by homes in Telavi and other cities. In such a harsh environment, it is endearing to see this amount of care for the aesthetics of their homes.

Only four towers remain in Dartlo. They are made from the same slate as the homes, but what makes them unique is their roofs. The pyramid shape differs from others we saw in Tusheti. All towers in the Pirikiti Alazani Valley would have had this type of roof, but not many have survived.

There are a few guesthouses and a couple restaurants in Dartlo. If you have a car, this would be a great place to stay for a night or two.

Two kilometres (1 ¼mi) and 355 m (1200ft) elevation above Dartlo is the small hamlet of Kvavlo. The walk between the two villages allows you to peer down on the roofs of Dartlo, as well as the Pirikiti Alazani River Valley.

On the way you’ll pass a couple of shrines. One has a no women allowed sign in front.

Kvavlo is in much rougher shape than Dartlo and only a couple of its summer homes are still standing. They have been restored, though, and operate as guesthouses. Beside these homes is a great collection of tower ruins. Some look like they would fall over if not for the reinforcements holding them up. In addition to seeing these towers, you get a closer look at their pyramid shaped roofs.

You can reach Dartlo by car or on foot. If you plan to drive yourself, the gravel road is very rough, with many deep ruts therefore, a high clearance vehicle would be best. Most guesthouses will drive you for a fee. If they can’t, they will know someone in their village who can. The usual fee is 150 GEL (€47) per car one way.

Walking to Dartlo

If you’re staying in Omalo, you can reach Dartlo on foot, but it is a long walk to do both ways in one day. We got a ride from our guesthouse to Dartlo and then walked back to Omalo. Begin your walk by crossing the Pirikiti Alazani River on the car bridge and then continue to walk on the Omalo-Dartlo road for the first while. The road cuts its way between forests of pine and birch. Waterfalls frequently race down between them.

There is quite a lot of tree coverage on the road, but you still have nice views of the Pirikiti Alazani Valley. High up the steep slopes, on the other side of the river, are the green fields used by local shepherds for generations. You can even spot their summer huts, built into the side of the mountain. Shepherds still use these elevated fields for the grass, but also because they offer better protection from wolves. The road doesn’t go near these grazing lands, but if you take another trail and find yourself near them, be alert for shepherd dogs. Their job is to protect the sheep, and they can be very aggressive to outsiders. Some of these shepherds produce “guda cheese. It’s a sheep cheese that is aged in sheepskins. Our palates didn’t particularly like its pungent flavours. In fact, even though we both love cheese, we didn’t like most cheese in Georgia.

A little further on, we could see overgrown terraces covering the mountainsides. Many years ago, these fields were used to grow barley, potatoes and oats, but they are no longer used.

After a while, the road veers away from the river and works its way up to an open mountain pass. At 6.8 km (4 ¼mi) from Dartlo, which is roughly halfway, you’ll find a small roadside cafe where you can take a break and buy snacks and drinks. We walked up one of the hills above the cafe for wonderful views of the snow-capped peaks in Chechnya, behind the green hills of Tusheti.

Roughly 8 km from Dartlo you can follow an old road instead of the main one. This detour, plus a couple of small ones, shorten your walk by about 3 km. These trails aren’t marked but you can find their entry points by using these GPS waypoints: Dartlo side: N42° 24.153’, E45° 37.343’E and Omalo side: N42° 23.378’, E45° 37.923’E. Once you’re back on the road, you’ll reach the backside of Upper Omalo where you have a great view of the towers Keselo Fortress on their small knoll.

You can do this route in either direction. The Omalo to Dartlo section is part of the 5 day trek to Shatili.

Dartlo to Lower Omalo: Distance – 12.3 (12 ¼ mi); Elevation gain – 620 m (2,030ft).


The area is often compared to Upper Svaneti, another remote mountain community in Georgia. The landscape in Tusheti is not as spectacular as Svaneti and the villages are not as cute, but it has its own beauty. Tusheti’s valleys are very deep and closely guarded by steep green, mountains. Svaneti has wide valleys, towered over by majestic, glaciated peaks. Svaneti is our favourite area in Georgia, but we’re very glad we visited Tusheti and recommend you to see it as well. Tusheti is on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list and after seeing it in person, we understand why it is being considered.

We visited the area independently, and while there are a few obstacles, such as transportation, it is very easy to do on your own. We find that being on our own allows us to have a better connection to the community. If you prefer tours, you can find some in Tbilisi.

The best time to visit is July and August when the guesthouses are open and the snow has melted from the high mountain passes. Most guesthouses operate between mid-late June and mid September. Outside these months, the road will be snow-covered, and the pass will not be open. There is typically less rain in the summer months. There isn’t a lot to do other than visit the different towns and enjoy the scenery, so it wouldn’t be as pleasant in the rain. Keep an eye on the weather forecasts before committing to the trip.  Also, if there is too much rain, the highway over the pass may be closed due to landslide danger, so you could be stuck on either side.

There are many factors to consider when deciding where to stay in Tusheti. Most accommodations are locally run guesthouses. They are very basic, many only have shared bathrooms, but they are clean, have hot water and electricity. WIFI and mobile networks will be slow, but its a good excuse to unplug. Their selling point is that they allow you to stay with a Tush family and get a glimpse into their daily lives.

The most common and easiest option is to stay in either Upper or Lower Omalo because this is where most share 4x4s will drop you off. Deciding between those two will depend on what type of stay you’re looking for. Since Upper Omalo is surrounded by small hills, you will likely not have a mountain view, but it has a great placement right below the fortress. There are a couple of shops selling drinks and snacks as well as home made woolen mittens and socks, but it is not much of a commercial town. Lower Omalo is more spread out and guesthouses are usually in farmhouses. There are not many stores or restaurants, but the mountain views are stunning. Most visitors will have meals in your guesthouse anyway, so we didn’t mind not having a restaurant. There is a hotel on the slopes above Lower Omalo, but we think staying in a guesthouse is an important part of a visit to Tusheti.

If you have a car, you may consider staying in Dartlo, or Shenako. Without a car, it is still possible, but it would require pre-arranging transportation from Omalo. This can likely be done through your guesthouse.

Many guesthouses are listed with online hotel booking sites.

It is possible to backpack and camp between villages, but getting meals will not always be easy. Many guesthouses only provide meals for their guests and not many villages have restaurants. So, either research in advance, or plan to bring your own food and stove.

Most guesthouses offer delicious, home-cooked traditional meals. Some of the dishes will be familiar Georgian dishes, such as khinkali, but others are much different. We tried dishes made with vegetables and greens that we’d never heard of.

The most common khinkali are filled with meat and mushrooms that float in perfectly seasoned juices. These traditional dumplings are shaped like a pyramid with a twist and have a knob on top. In Tusheti, they cut off this knob and serve it similar to gnocchi.

Two variations of the dumplings that we didn’t see in southern Georgia are cheese and potato khinkali. They are apparently eaten everywhere in the country, but we only saw them in Tusheti and Stepantsminda. We learned that potato and cheese ones are shaped differently than typical khinkali because they don’t have juice inside. They looked more like pierogies and are absolutely delicious.

Here’s one of our home-made meals in Omalo which included beef and potato khinkali, eggplant rolls, cheese, pickles and a few local vegetable dishes.

There are only a few stores and restaurants, so bring any snacks you may want. You can get safe drinking water from your guesthouse.

Tush speak a variation of Georgian as well as typcial Georgian. The older generation can usually speak Russian and the younger generation speak English. We didn’t find communication too difficult because the grandson of our host family spoke excellent English, especially for a 9 year old. As well, Richard can speak Russian, so it was easy to communicate with the grandparents. This is similar in most Tush households today.

You can visit most of the10 villages, but not all are set up for overnight stays. There is no public transit in Tusheti. Most guesthouses have 4WDs and can drive you to another village for a fee. Otherwise, they will know of someone who will. The roads between the villages are very rough, gravel roads and should only be driven by high clearance vehicles. A few are still only accessible on foot or by horse, such as Parsma. We enjoyed walking between the villages because it allowed us to soak in the pristine views more slowly than driving.

The most common option to get to Tusheti is to take a share 4×4. They leave from Kvemo Alvani, 27 km from Telavi. If you’re in Telavi, take a taxi to the shared 4×4 stand. They all seem to know where it is. If you’re in Tbilisi, take a marshrutka from Ortachala Station to Kvemo Alvani. Most shared 4x4s leave Kvemo Alvani by 10 or 11am, so it’s best to arrive in the morning. We organized a ride though our guesthouse in Telavi and it worked out great. The cost is 100 GEL (€31.50) per person, one way. We  were able to go with the same driver back, but if not, your guesthouse in Tusheti can help you organize. You can read about that drive here.

If you are experienced at driving on narrow, exposed mountain roads and have a 4×4 with high clearance, then you may be able to drive yourself. People at our Tusheti guesthouse drove from Tbilisi in a Subaru Forester, but it would have been safer to have higher clearance. Many of the potholes and water runnels are extreme, especially on the backroads between villages. Also, keep in mind that you can not buy fuel in Tusheti.

In general, Tusheti is very safe. Most danger comes from the rough roads. It is a mountain community, so you must watch the weather and be aware of possible mud or rock slides as well as bears and wolves.

You can read about other hikes we did in Georiga in our post Mestia to Ushguli Trekking Guide and Day Hikes From Stepantsminda. We have also done many hikes around the world. You can find those under Trek-Bike-Ski.

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Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Georgia.

To read more of our adventures in Georgia, click here.

Fediverse reactions

57 responses to “Walking Between The Remote Villages of Tusheti”

  1. Oh my God, Maggie! I wouldn’t need anything else to live in a place like this. The mountains, the small village, the transcendental peace that you breathe (even through the photographs) is impressive. Now, I’m here dreaming and happy to have “lived” the post intensely. My hug.

    1. It is a serene, natural environment where you can easily find peace. Glad to have brought you there Fernando. Maggie

  2. Wow! What an amazing adventure! You were definitely off the beaten path in this remote, gorgeous and historically and culturally interesting part of the world. Your photos are fantastic and it must have been wonderful to travel on foot like that. Thanks for taking us along. Cheers.

    1. Thanks Lynette, it is a wonderfully remote region that we’re glad to have seen.

  3. The hard-scrabble buildings, and the rough-rugged landscape do have a certain charm about them. The cultural attitudes about women and men are relics that I’d have a difficult time getting past, though.

    1. I thought so too, but other than the shrines, we really didn’t see the patriarchy. Most live in modern Georgia now, so I think these shrines may be all that’s left of those beliefs.

  4. Definitely the scenery is the stuff of myths and fairytales Maggie. Some parts seem almost Swiss in appearance. The mountains and tiny villages are very picturesque. Thanks for sharing. Allan

    1. It is ripe for a few myths isn’t it? Thanks Allan

  5. A fascinating post! I found the descriptions of the beliefs and culture here especially interesting and of course loved those mountain views. The ones from your base in Lower Omalo and from Keselo Fortress are particularly stunning 😲 The towers too are so picturesque!

    1. It is an interesting place where the culture is as unique as the landscape is beautiful. Glad you enjoyed Tusheti Sarah, Maggie

  6. A real travel experience, Maggie. I doubt that many of us will be following you but it’s wonderful to see these genuinely unspoilt regions. Thanks so much for the share, the photos and all the details xx

    1. Thanks Jo, happy to bring you these wonderful scenes from Tusheti. There’s not a lot of details about the walks online, so we wanted to share them. Hopefully they help someone one day. 😊 Maggie

  7. Absolutely amazing, Maggie! It’s apparent that your efforts were rewarded with stunning views. Well done!

  8. We forget that not everyone around the world lives the same way. I might say that I could live simply like that, but I don’t know. . . What do you think, Maggie? Could you live there, like the residents, and never go anywhere else?

    1. I couldn’t live there, but I do love sampling their simple life for a few days. Thanks Mary

  9. What a beautiful countryside – and a wonderful experience….

    1. It was wonderful, so different from our way of life. Thanks Marie

  10. The landscape is rugged and remote, yet there is a sense of peace in the vistas in your photos.

    I enjoyed the Upper Omalo & Keselo Fortress view. I got the sense that it was a special time in this region of connecting with the land. And although some of the houses in Omalo seem modern, I sense from your descriptions of their traditions that their connection to the land and their way of life holds fast to their historical ways.

    *If ever a place could be termed remote and idyllic at the same time, this region, in my mind, surely qualifies. I cannot imagine hiking even on the smallest path. Kudos to you both for choosing to hike and explore these villages on foot…that wooden bridge (Shenako Pedestrian Bridge)…Wow!

    I love that views of Keselo Fortress, and the view from it, both are spectacular.
    Just curious if there are any other routes into Tusheti and these remote communities, that are passable in winter you mentioned that the roads are not passable in winter? How do they get supplies or medical aid in the winter? I wonder?

    Thanks for taking us along on this breathtaking trek. Safe travels to you both, Maggie.

    1. There are no roads, or services at all in the winter. The 10-20 that stay must be completely self sufficient. What a tough life they have, we were told that temperatures can get to -30C! But in the summer with 400 people spread so far apart it is still very quiet, you’re right it it is both rugged and peaceful.
      When I said modern, it is more in comparison to the medieval slate houses without windows, they are still very basic homes with few amenities, more like our cabins would be. Which for the summer, is fine, maybe even fun.
      To us, walking between the villages was almost as good as seeing the old houses and tall towers. Thanks so much for your great questions Suzette! Maggie

      1. Thank you, Maggie, for the extra details and great information on daily life in the rural communities. It does sound like a tough existence in the winter they are strong people.

  11. What an amazing adventure this must have been and a fascinating experience to see how the people live. Your photos are beautiful.

    1. It is so far removed from our daily life. What an honour to be able to experience it. Glad you enjoyed Tusheti. Maggie

  12. What a fascinating journey to try and follow, learning so much about a part of the world normally ‘just there’ on the map! Absolutely gorgeous scenery but a daily lifestyle hard to comprehend. Thank you for putting this down in such detail ’cause I’ll be back at a ‘quiet time’ to walk the paths and look at the houses with you wondering what exactly one does thru’ the days and nights for the colder 9-12 months of the year. . . 🙂

  13. I can’t even imagine life in a remote region like this. It must have been fascinating to stay with the families and experience it up close. The tidbits about their religion were interesting. And, of course, the mountain views are spectacular!

    1. It is such a different way of life, it was wonderful to stay with the local family to learn from them.

  14. Fascinating. The work it took to build the slate towers in hard to imagine. Do they have an issue with the younger generations moving away to urban areas or larger cities? The isolation must be hard. Great post. Thanks for taking us along.

    1. Almost everyone moves away for the winters and only come back for summer. But I think most stay in their small community on the plain rather than move to Tbilisi. It was nice for a few days, but it is a hard life thanks Marie

      1. I would have made a terrible pioneer in a covered wagon. I shiver at the thought of what a hard life it is.

  15. Stunning landscapes, Maggie! The Albano Pass looks amazing and would be great to ride on a motorbike.

    The ‘no women’ sign is intriguing. Cheers, Nilla

    1. I don’t think we saw any motorcycles, and actually, we noticed there weren’t many in all of Georgia and Armenia.
      Women aren’t allowed near the shrines, an old belief that is still followed today. I think the signs are for tourists because locals know.

  16. It’s so interesting to learn about Georgia, I hardly ever hear about anyone visiting. I don’t think I am cut out to live somewhere so remote. I always joke I need to be within 15 minutes of a Target.

    1. Haha, I don’t think you’d make it in Tusheti 😊

  17. That’s a very special place to visit. We suppose you escape the masses of tourists there.
    Thanks for taking us there
    The Fab Four of Cley
    🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

    1. It was difficult to find a tourist in Tusheti 😊

  18. It must have been relaxing being in these unique villages surrounded by peaceful scenery.

  19. How fabulous Maggie. Tusheti is such an interesting place and OMG that homemade dinner looks better than a 5-Star restaurant! Sweet! 🥯🥣🥐

    1. It was, in fact every meal we had in Georgia was delicious!

      1. Oh girl, I can only imagine! What a culinary experience for sure! 🥣😋🥐

  20. What an interesting part of Georgia. I love learning about people who live in the mountains, and why they were there. The slate towers are pretty impressive, and would have been a great defense system way back when. It’s kinda sad that so many of the villages are abandoned, but not surprising. Good on you for walking between the villages. Those roads look pretty cool – winding and cutting through the hillsides. Enjoy your travels!

    1. It is a great area. We’ll post on our favourite hike in Svaneti, in a couple of weeks. Thanks Alisen

  21. Thank you for bringing us to yet another beautiful corner of Georgia! I really love the look of Keselo Fortress perched on top of that rocky outcrop — there’s something whimsical about it. And the views from this vantage point look amazing. Even in its ruined state, Diklo Fortress still looks quite fascinating, especially due to its setting. And that view of Dartlo with the darkened towers is nothing short of dramatic. I wouldn’t be surprised if it has inspired filmmakers in the past.

  22. What a beautiful corner to see with you today. Life here may seem small and simple, but there is also something really beautiful to waking up to the mountains every day. I really love the old church bell and the fortress.

  23. Well, I’m not too keep on being associated with impurity and evil just because I’m a woman, but other than that it looks fantastic. 😉 Spectacular scenery and interesting history of an esoteric population.

    1. I know, it’s a crazy belief isn’t it? Luckily, the people didn’t seem to treat women any differently. We only saw this around the shrines, so that may be the only hanger on of this belief.

      1. I was just reading another blog about an area of India that celebrates the matriarchy, so that evened things out for me. 😉

  24. The scenery and remote villages look lovely. I think Upper Omalo is my favourite. Crazy to hear that so many cows fall off the cliffs on the walk over the pass. Exploring on foot is always a great way to enjoy the landscape.

    1. Life in Tusheti is so different from our own isn’t it? I’m glad we saw it, and I’m glad we were able to take the time to walk between the villages. Thanks Linda

  25. Wow, what an absolutely stunning part of Georgia, with such an interesting history. I particularly love the views of, and from, Keselo Fortress. Staying in a guest house sounds like such a rewarding experience, and for the privilege of seeing such a remote area in all its glory, slow wifi is a price well worth paying.

    1. Tusheti is a great part of the country and so far removed from our usual lives. I didn’t mind the lack of wifi at all 😊 Thanks Hannah

  26. Fascinating! How long do you usually stay in the countries you visit?

    1. It depends on how long the visas are, but usually at least a month. We kept extending our time in Georgia because we loved it so much.

  27. Oh my gosh the most amazing journeys you two have , wow wow wow… 😮 absolute amazing photos and beautiful journey through your writing as if walking with you… I could imagine it all .

    1. Thanks so much Kerri, I’m glad we could show you the highlights in Georgia. Maggie

      1. I can just imagine the adventures when I read , your explanations are so detailed it’s as if I’m there .. fantastic!

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