From the hilltop citadel to the medieval mosques below, there is much to see in Islamic Cairo. Most people visit Cairo for the pyramids, but there is a lot more to see in the city’s historic centre. In this post, we’ll explore the historic Saladin Citadel and the medieval mosques in this fascinating part of Cairo. As you’ll soon see, Islamic Cairo is very deserving of its UNESCO World Heritage Site status.
Click on the link to read our post from Al-Mu’izz Street, in the heart of Islamic Cairo.
A little history of Islamic Cairo
In the 7th century, the Arab Umayyad Dynasty defeated the Romans for control of Egypt. They were the first Muslim dynasty, and are credited with converting the country to Islam. They didn’t build in Cairo, though; the city wasn’t settled until the 10th century when the Fatimid Dynasty from Yemen and Syria made Cairo home. In the ensuing centuries, they were followed by other Muslim dynasties, including the Ayyubids and Mamluks, until the Ottoman Empire gained control and ruled for almost 400 years. As a result, Islamic Cairo is filled with outstanding architecture from these medieval dynasties.
Saladin Citadel
Standing tall on the Mokattam Hills is the impressive Saladin Citadel (also called Salah el-din Citadel and Cairo Citadel). Sultan Saladin ordered its construction in 1173 when the Crusaders were still a threat in Egypt. He had just established the Ayyubid Dynasty to become the first Sultan of Egypt; leaders of previous dynasties were called Caliphs. Saladin’s biggest legacy is defeating the Crusaders in the Levant. We’ll talk more about him when we visit Jordan.
In the ensuing centuries, the citadel sustained many expansions. Each successive empire wanted to make it their own by tearing down the previous buildings and erecting new ones. Since its construction in the 12th century, the Citadel served as Egypt’s seat of government for almost 700 years, until it was moved to Abdeen Palace in the late 1800s. We showed you this palace in the first Cairo post, Cairo’s Top Historic Landmarks.
The Citadel included a palace, halls, an aqueduct, wells, mosques and residences, but not everything has been restored; in fact, much of the citadel is still in ruins. The main buildings remaining today are three mosques and a palace. Many of those are from the 19th century when Mohammed Ali Pasha ruled Egypt.
Being positioned on a hill, the citadel offers amazing views of some of the city’s most iconic monuments. Understandably, it is a popular place for wedding pictures. From high above, we had our first view of the Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan and Al-Rifai Mosque, which we would visit later in the day.
If you’re lucky, you may be able to see the Pyramids of Giza, which makes it more than worth the trip to the citadel.
Mohammed Ali Mosque
The silver domes and white alabaster walls of the Mohammad Ali Mosque can be seen from many parts of the city. Mohammed Ali was an Ottoman Pasha, or governor, who attempted to bring Egypt into modern times. His dynasty went on to rule Egypt for several generations.
The Ottoman-style mosque has two tall minarets, several towers and multiple domed roofs. It serves as a mosque and the pasha’s mausoleum. If it looks familiar, that’s because it took inspiration from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Instead of being called the Blue Mosque, though, it is often referred to as the Alabaster Mosque.
You can read our post from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul here.
When you enter the mosque complex, you will first visit the courtyard. This open space is surrounded by a colonnaded marble walkway. In the centre is a marble ablution fountain with the first tap ever installed in Egypt. In the 1850s, this was considered a modern fixture and was placed on one of the most decorated fountains we’ve seen in a mosque. The final feature in the courtyard is a metal clock tower positioned above the wall.
Inside, chandeliers hang below the many golden and green domes. Around the edge, geometric designs are carved into the alabaster walls, but it’s difficult to see them with the large number of low-hanging chandeliers.
Dress Code – Women must cover their hair, as well as legs, arms and shoulders. Men must cover their legs. You must remove your shoes or use shoe covers, which can be purchased at the gate.
Al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun Mosque
If it weren’t for the green dome, you may not notice Al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun Mosque at all since it’s overshadowed by the large Mohammed Ali Mosque. This heritage mosque was built by the same sultan who built a mosque-madrasa on Al Mu’izz Street. Both inside and out, the décor is much more subtle than the Mohammed Ali Mosque, with earth-toned stones surrounding its courtyard. Most of the colour comes from the green tiled minarets that match the green dome.
Dress Code – Women must cover their hair, as well as legs and arms. Men must wear pants. Shoes are left at the door.
Sulayman Pasha Mosque
The third mosque in the citadel is the 16th century Sulayman Pasha Mosque.
El Gawhara Palace
The gardens in front of El Gawhara Palace host the Military Museum. It seems odd to have cannons placed inside this peaceful flower garden.
The most beautifully restored building in the citadel is found at the end of the garden. El Gawhara Palace was built in 1814 by Muhammad Ali for his wife, Gawhara Hanem. His goal as sultan was to modernize Egypt, so he hired a European architect who combined European and Turkish styles. There isn’t much furniture in the palace, but you can walk through to see the many rooms and grand halls with delicately painted ceilings, muraled walls and elaborate lighting.
The citadel has a few other museums, including a police museum, a sundial and a carriage museum. All are included in your entrance fee. But most of the massive hilltop citadel is in poor shape with shabby residential buildings around the edge.
Entry – 550 EGP ($10.50); Opening Hours – 8 am to 6 pm (closed at 5pm in winter), daily. Two hours is plenty of time to see everything.
Al-Muizz Street is around 4 km from the Citadel, so you could easily see them on the same day by taking a taxi between the two. LINK
Salah al-Din Square
You can see the citadel from many vantage points in the city, but one of the best was from Salah al-Din Square, where we could also see Bab El Azad. You can’t see this gate from inside the citadel, so it was a treat to be able to see it here. The square is located in front of the Sultan Hassan Mosque that we had just seen from the citadel.
Because Al-Rifa’i Mosque-Mausoleum was built in such close proximity to Sultan Hasan Mosque, it’s difficult to see either up close. This square gave us the best view of the outside of both mosques. In addition to these two mosques, there were several others surrounding the square. The stipped external walls of Qanibay al-Rammah Mosque caught our eye, but unfortunately, it is closed for restoration.
Mosque Madrasa of Sultan Hasan
The 14th century mosque-madrasa complex is considered a masterpiece of the Mamluk Dynasty. Once inside the main entrance, you will be in a wonderfully stripped foyer. From there, follow a long hallway to reach an open madrasa (school), with tall arches and madrasa study rooms (iwans) to the side. At the far end is Friday Mosque with decorative lamps in front of the mihrab on a colourfully striped qibla wall.
Some of the limestone used in this complex and in the Mohammed Ali Mosque came from the casing that covered Giza’s Pyramids. We’ll show you those soon.
A mausoleum was built for the sultan directly behind the qibla wall. This would have meant that worshippers were praying toward the sultan as well as Mecca, which is not very common.
It is a pretty room with brown muqarnas and muted colours on the walls. The sultan was killed before the complex was completed, so some of the design features were etched out but never carved. He was assasinated in a political coup, and the sultan’s body was never found, so the sarcophagus is empty.
Al-Rifai Mosque Mausoleum
Immediately across from the Hasan Mosque Madrasa is the large stone Al-Rifai Mosque Mausoleum (Al-Rifa’i Mosque). It was completed in the 19th century and was intended to complement its neighbour. From the outside, it does, but its interior is far more elaborate than the 600 year old Hasan Mosque. Al-Rifai has a high central blue and gold dome with lower, but equally stunning domes on either side. The showstopper in the highly decorated mosque is the striped mihrab.
As well as mosque, it was the royal mausoleum for many from the Mohammed Ali Dynasty. There is also a shrine for Mohammed Raza, the last Shah of Iran, but this area was closed to visitors when we were there.
Entry to the complex (both mosques) – 220 EGP ($4.25 USD); Opening Hours – 9am -5 pm, daily. Time Needed – Thirty minutes is enough time to visit both.
City of the Dead
While walking to the Citadel, we couldn’t believe the massive complex of tombs that lay in front of us. As far as we could see, tombs in every shape and size imaginable were crowded almost on top of each other. Called the City of the Dead or Cairo Cemetery, this fascinating place was first used as a cemetery as early as the 600s, but most tombs are from the 13th to 15th centuries.
What makes it unique is that the necropolis also had living inhabitants. Grave diggers and custodians lived among the tombs for centuries. Today, it has an even larger population. Some tombs are being lived in by squatters as the city’s housing problems rise. What a bizarre place to live.
Mosque of Ibn Tulun
A tall stone wall hides what’s inside this large mosque, but once you step through the entrance, it opens up to a very large courtyard. Built in 879, it is the oldest and best-preserved mosque in Egypt. It was constructed by the short-lived Tulunid Dynasty but is said to be a classic example of Abbasid architecture.
Even though it has sustained many changes over the centuries, this mosque still looks its age, in the best way possible. The centre ablation fountain is weathered and worn. Surrounding the courtyard are three rows of arcades, each with time-worn arches. Some of these still display carvings, but most have been washed away over time.
On the outer edge of the courtyard is a unique minaret. What makes it unusual is that its staircase is on the outside.
After visiting the mosque, climb up those outer steps on the minaret for views into the courtyard and of the city. From this high you can see Saladin Citadel, the Mosque Madrasa Sultan Hussan and the Al-Rifa’i Mosque, and you can peer into the neighbouring Madrasa of Sarghatmish.
With so much history concentrated in one area, almost all of Historic Cairo is designated a UNESCO World Heritage, including Islamic Cairo’s Al’Muizz Street, Coptic Cairo, Saladin Citadel, Mosque of Ibn Tulun, and City of the Dead.
Prayer Callus
After seeing so many Islamic buildings, you must realize that Egyptians are very devout Muslims. We saw proof of this in Egypt that we’ve never seen before. Quite a few men have a zabiba (zebiba) or prayer callus on their head. During the 5 daily prayers, Muslims touch their head on the floor. When done firmly and for extended periods of time, a callous eventually forms. It is a sign of their devotion, and they wear it proudly.
Al-Azhar Park
Between Al-Mu’izz Street and the citadel is Al-Azhar Park. It seems to be popular for local families. It is a huge green space, but we didn’t have much time to spend sitting on a park bench with so much to see in this city. Entry – 200 EGP ($3.75) for foreigners; Opening Hours – 9am to 10 pm.
For tips when visiting Cairo, including where to stay and avoiding common scams, visit our Tips For Vising Cairo.
To read more of our adventures in Egypt, click here.
Coming Next – Coptic Cairo and Garbage City: Cairo’s Christian Heritage
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