The Blue City of Chefchaouen is a magical town. Buildings painted in every shade of blue decorate the lanes that wind up and down the mountainside. Visiting Chefchaouen is like stepping into your favourite storybook. Just when you think you’ve found the cutest scene, you’ll turn a corner and find another. Come with us as we show you the charming town of Chefchaouen.
When our bus pulled into the terminal at the bottom of the hill, we were a little disappointed. Where were all of those blue homes we kept hearing about? Even when we took a taxi to the square just below our hotel, we couldn’t see them. But then, we took a few steps up a narrow, winding stairwell and walked into a world of blue. Every house, wall, door, mosque and even the stairs are painted in various shades of blue. We then understood how Chefchaouen received the nickname ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco’.
Medina
No one knows exactly why the first houses in Chefchaouen were painted blue. Some say it began with the first Jews and Moriscos who settled here when exiled from Spain in the 15th century. Blue represents the sky and therefore heaven, making it a traditional colour in Jewish culture. Others suggest it was to ward off mosquitos, or even to help keep the homes cool. Whatever the reason, it resulted in a picture-perfect scene at every turn.
The blue medina was built on a hill therefore, exploring its streets means climbing up and down stairs and ramps. Like most old towns, the lanes don’t run in a grid but rather wander off aimlessly.
The best time to explore these streets is before 10 am. At this time of day, not only is the medina empty of tourists, but more importantly, the sun hasn’t risen enough to reach the narrow lanes, so they remain in the shade. The contrast between the bright sun and shaded areas can ruin your pictures.
We also enjoyed walking through the market streets at this hour, when their blue doors were closed.
In addition to the homes, there are gorgeous blue fountains and doors to admire. We loved the cute street signs that are written in Arabic and French.
As I’m sure you can imagine, with this much cuteness, Chefchaouen is very touristy. The main alleys are home to many tourist shops selling magnets, t-shirts, pottery, paintings, wicker baskets and bags. Every tourist nick-nack you can think of is displayed on the blue walls. Who cares, it is still adorable.
If you’re planning on shopping, we did find prices very high here compared to other, less touristy towns in Morocco.
Many residents are cashing in on this popularity by charging a fee to take pictures of their homes or stairwells. We didn’t pay for any of these shots because those streets weren’t any cuter than all the other ones.
Although it is a tourist hotspot, the medina is also a residential district. There are a lot of hotels, shops and restaurants, but there are also a lot of private homes. Please respect their privacy as you explore the streets.
Plaza Outa El Hammam
At the base of the hill is the main square, Plaza Outa El Hammam. On one side, restaurants are lined up so tight, it’s difficult to tell one from another. In front of them, touts armed with menus flag down potential diners.
On the other side of the plaza is the 15th century Kasbah built by Moulay Ali Ben Musa. From a fortress to a prison and then weapons storage, it has had a few different tenants and uses over the centuries. Today it is home to a museum and a lovely Andalucian Garden. It’s nice to have the garden inside because the greenery softens the Kasbah’s stern look.
Its outer walls, towers and some of the interior rooms are still in decent condition. You can visit the small museum to see a selection of artifacts from the region’s history. The best thing to do though, is climb to the top of the tower for spectacular views. From there you can look across the terra cotta tiled roofs of the medina. In the other direction, you have a great view of the Spanish Mosque on a neighbouring hill.
Spanish Mosque Sunset Viewpoint
The best place to see this unique medina is from a lookout below the Spanish Mosque. The ideal time is just before sunset when a soft light brushes over the town and the blues become more vibrant. The amazing views begin on the walk up to it where you can see the azure homes trickle down the hill. Not only did the viewpoint gift us with a panoramic view of the medina we also had a bird’s-eye view of the Kasbah.
During the busy season, this viewpoint is known to be crowded. You may need to arrive early to ensure you get the best viewing spot. When we visited in November, that wasn’t an issue.
The mosque was built when Chefchaouen was under the Spanish protectorate but was never used as a mosque. On the way to the viewpoint, you will pass Ras El Maa Waterfall. In November, it was barely a trickle, but in spring, it is quite a raging river. At this time, local women come here to do laundry.
A few years earlier, we visited India’s blue city, Jodhpur. We were quite disappointed by the small number of blue buildings in its Old Town. Our experience in Chefchaouen was completely the opposite and we highly recommend a visit when you’re in Morocco.
You can read about our time in Jodhpur here.
Jebel Kalaa Hike
We had been staring at the rocky peak above town and wondered if it had any hiking trails. It turns out there are. At the top of the medina, a sidewalk leads to a goat herder’s trail that climbs the gully beside Kalaa Mountain (Jebel Kalaa). We passed a few modest farmhouses on the way.
The rugged mountain is covered in thorny bushes so going off route isn’t too pleasant, but lucky for us, a decent trail goes all the way up the mountain.
We were able to see the smaller sub peaks and rough terrain of the mountain, but the views of town weren’t as spectacular as we had hoped. It was still a nice day of hiking.
On the other side of these rocky Rif peaks, is a shocking site for Morocco. The fields are covered in marijuana plants. Even though it is not legal in Morocco there are many dealers on the streets in Chefchaouen’s medina. We were asked several times a day if we ‘smoke’.
If you’re looking to explore the Rif Mountains, there are two great hikes only a short drive away. Find out more about these in our post God’s Bridge & Akchour Waterfall Hikes – Day Trips From Chefchaouen.
How to get to Chefchaouen
As a popular tourist site, Chefchaouen is relatively easy to reach. CTM buses travels between the mountain town and Tangier (110 km), Tetouan (60 km), Fez (200 km), Meknes (195 km), Rabat (250 km), Marrakesh (570 km) and Casablanca (330 km). The nearest airport is Sania Ramel Airport in Tetouan. Trains do not travel to Chefchaouen.
You can find Chefchaouen near the top of the map below. Click on the image to be directed to an interactive map.
Where to eat in Chefchaouen
There are many tourist restaurants in Chefchaouen’s medina. Several are located in Plaza Outa El Hammam. They all seemed to have the same menu, average food and aggressive touts. Place El Haouta is a little quieter with quite a few decent choices.
Where to stay in Chefchaouen
As a tourist hotspot, there are many riads in the medina area. Traditional riads are old homes with a central, open courtyard that extends the entire height of the two or three-story buildings. Guest rooms typically open up to the courtyard. Because of this open design, they tend to be noisy so read the reviews before booking. There are a few hotels on the edges of the medina as well as in the more modern city, but we prefer the more authentic feel of a riad.
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Coming Next – God’s Bridge & Akchour Waterfall Hikes – Day Trips From Chefchaouen
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