The medina in Fez has a multitude of winding passageways that seem to be set in an unsolvable maze. Packed with shops, mosques and riads, this vibrant part of the city will soon excite your senses and make you fall in love with this historic Moroccan city. Here is a guide to the sights you will find when you explore Fez’s Medina
Throughout its history, Morocco has had many capitals. Today, they are referred to as Imperial Cities. Fez was the first, established by the Idrisid Dynasty in the 8th century. Their first leader, Moulay Idriss, brought Islam to Morocco in 789. Preferences switched to other cities, depending on the leader of the day, but it frequently returned to Fez. It was most recently the capital in the 20th century until it relocated to Rabat in 1912, where it remains today.
Note – The city can be either spelled Fes or Fez. We’ve chosen to use Fez. In fact, most Arabic and Berber words have many different spellings in English and French.
This long, complicated history has left a city with a variety of influences, which is what makes it so captivating to visit.
Fez el Bali Medina
Let’s begin our exploration of the city in its famous medina. The city actually has two medinas. Although the main one is formally called Fez el Bali, it’s always referred to simply as the Medina. In Morocco, a medina is usually the oldest part of the city and includes outdoor markets and homes. It is often within a protective wall. Parts of this walled city in Fez date back to the 9th century.
The thought of exploring the largest and oldest medina in North Africa, and likely the world, is a little daunting. After researching Fez Medina online and in travel books, we expected an intense environment where overly aggressive touts constantly harass and take advantage of tourists wandering lost in the maze of dark streets. Instead, we found a lively, exotic place with all the twists and turns you expect. Rather than intimidating though, it is fascinating to explore, and the touts are mostly passive and friendly.
We were told that plain-clothed tourist police have recently begun patrolling the medina to ensure visitors’ safety. If this is true, they are very good at blending into the scenery as we didn’t see them.
We have included a few tips below for those still unsure of visiting the medina. To go directly to our Tips for Navigating Fez Medina click here.
With 9,454 alleyways running in every direction, countless shops and 300 mosques, there is much to see in this vibrant hotspot. From dark, lonely passageways, to busy throughfares you could spend days exploring the medina and see something new each time.
Many people write about Moroccan souks and medinas in a romantic way, speaking of the smells of spices and colours of fabrics. And sure, in the main touristy part of the medina, the aroma of exotic spices do waft through the air. But the reality is, that most of the medina has other, less pleasant aromas. The odours of hanging meat, rotting fruit and garbage are more common. In most parts, the walls are not decorated with colourful carpets, they are bare and dirty. As well, there is little to no natural light so in many places, they feel dingy. None of this is bad, but it is reality. They’re not clean movie sets, they are real, working parts of the old city.
Most Moroccan medinas were built in the Middle Ages when the main, and likely only, transportation and means of carrying goods was by donkey or camel. Therefore, many alleyways were built just wide enough for a donkey to fit. Others were wide enough for two to pass each other. We found plenty of each as we wandered these old lanes.
A great time to explore the medina is in the morning before the city wakes. At that time the streets are empty, and you can see the interesting worn-out features, tunnels and doors. When shops begin to open around 10 am, the medina comes alive. Streets fill with locals, tourists and donkeys. Shopkeepers spread their wares out on display, enticing you to stop and look. It has two distinct personalities, and it’s good to see both.
You’re likely to find street performers as you wander through the medina. Dressed in traditional costumes they’ll dance and play Moroccan music with a smile.
In addition to the narrow streets and disorganized shops, there are a few coloured fountains and wonderful old buildings with decorated doors.
After aimlessly shopping at the many varied vendors, ogling at the wonderful doors, or curiously checking out a dark alley, there are a few specific places you should see in Fez Medina.
Boujloud Gate
The entire medina is enclosed by tall ramparts with 13 gates. Boujloud Gate (Bab Boujloud) is the main gate that allows entrance into the old medina. This one is beautiful on both sides with horseshoe arches decorated in zilleges (tiles) painted in flowery designs, arabesques and knot-work ornamentation. The exterior is blue, giving it the nickname Azul Porte (Blue Door), but the inside is green.
The square in front of the gate was once a major meeting place for storytellers, snake charmers and entertainers. Since it was renovated though, it has been fairly quiet.
Moulay Idris II Mausoleum and Mosque
Deep inside the medina is one of its most important monuments. Moulay Idris II Mausoleum and Mosque was built to commemorate one of Fez’s most beloved leaders and son of Moulay Idriss. Although he died in the 9th century, the colourful mosque and mausoleum were built in the 18th. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside but we poked our heads through the door to see some of its beauty.
Bou Inania Madrasa
Our favourite place in Fez was this beautifully decorated school. Madrasas were centres of learning, where students studied the Koran as well as secular subjects. After entering the 14th century Bou Inania Madrasa, the first room you’ll see is the elaborate courtyard. The stunning room is surrounded by carved wooden features, delicately sculpted plaster panels and muqarnas, cedar friezes and onyx marble columns. Blue and orange tiles on the walls add the only colour to the space, but even though it’s mostly brown, it is far from plain.
Standing high above is a minaret decorated in zilleges.
Separating the courtyard from the rooms on the sides are wooden lattice screens called mashrabiyas. One of those rooms is a mosque. It is still used for prayer so the site is closed to visitors at prayer times.
Tip – Bou Inania Madrasa is a popular place for selfie-takers, so we recommend going early to avoid them.
La Magana
Across the street from the madrasa is a 14th century hydraulic clock with an interesting mechanism. Today unfortunately, there’s not much left of the old clock. When it was in working order, the bottom row of braces held bowls that were filled with water and connected by strings to levers above. Water would spill from one bowl into the next like dominos to keep the clock ticking. It’s too bad that we can’t see it in operation anymore.
Al Atterine Madrassa
This madrasa is very similar to the Bou Inania, but it has a colourfully tiled floor and a larger display of finely sculpted elements. Bas relief panels of Arabic scripture wrap around the room. Carved cedar cornices decorate the tops of the walls while plaster and wooden muqarnas dangle from the archways like icicles dripping into the room. They reminded us of all of the pretty muqarnas we saw in Uzbekistan.
Above the courtyard are small residence rooms. We were told that if a student fails a Koran exam they are locked in one of these rooms until they pass.
Chouwara Tannery
We knew we were getting close to the tannery when rancid odours permeated the streets. The best way to see the tannery is from above, so we found a shop with a balcony and looked down upon a fascinating scene. Large vats were filled with white or coloured liquid. Lamb, beef, goat and camel hides were draped over every available ledge or hook. After visiting the tannery in Tetouan, we thought we were prepared for Fez’s version, but there’s really no comparison.
To read about Tetouan visit our post Tetouan Medina – An Authentic Moroccan Experience. We later visited some tanneries in Marrakesh, and they were even messier.
Tanneries in Morocco still use ancient techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation and haven’t advanced much in this modern age. The first step in traditional tanneries is to soak the hides in large stone vats filled with a white liquid composed of pigeon droppings, cow urine, quicklime, salt and water. This solution strips hairs from the hides and is one of the causes of the revolting smells.
After a few days soaking in the white solution, the hides are placed in vats filled with coloured dyes. The pigments come from natural sources such as indigo, saffron and henna. Men, with their pant legs rolled up past their knees, stand in the vats and continuously dunk the hides in and out of the coloured liquid.
Even from above, the smell was so putrid that words don’t do it justice. We couldn’t imagine being those men, standing in it.
After they have dried, the hides are the turned into jackets, bags and shoes by neighbourhood artisans. You can find these goods for sale in the medina.
Tip – There are many touts outside the tannery. They were the most aggressive that we experienced in Fez. Their con begins by offering a sprig of mint to keep under your nose, but of course, they expect payment for it. They’ll also try to be your ‘guide’ but in reality, they will take you to their friend’s shop where you are pressured to buy something, so beware. They may not even let you know up front that there is a fee, but remember, nothing is free in the medina.
They didn’t bother us, because we didn’t interact, but we saw them hounding and following others. If you ignore them, or say a polite ‘no’ and keep walking, they won’t bother you. But if you show weakness, take their mint, ask a question, or look in the least bit interested, expect to be a target.
Najjaraline Museum
After the tannery, you’ll want to see something pretty and Najjaraline Funduq may just be the right place. Funduqs are traditional inns or caravansaries. These tall buildings have a central courtyard with rooms around the edge that were either accommodations, workshops or even stables for camels and donkeys. Najjaraline is a beautiful example of a funduq and is open as a museum. It has traditional horseshoe gates and wooden balconies carved with delicate lace-like designs. Today its rooms display tools once used by craftsmen as well as examples of their doors, musical instruments, tables and decorations.
From the museum’s rooftop we had great views of the medina and its surrounding wall.
Kairaouine Mosque & Seffarine Place
Founded in 859 by a woman from Kairouine in present-day Tunisia, Kairaouine Mosque was a centre of learning, making it the oldest university in the world. Today, however, it is a mosque and non-Muslims are not allowed inside. (Also spelled Qaraouiyine)
On the other side of the building is its historic library. We had read that it was open to visitors, but that is no longer true. It is closed to non-Muslims.
We’re glad we came this way though, because the library sits on the edge of an interesting square. Coppersmith shops and workshops spread out onto Saffranine Place. Sitting in their shop doors, craftsmen make teapots, trays, incense burners and more. It was fascinating to see the items that are still made by hand. The surrounding streets are home to dozens of shops selling various items crafted by these artisans.
Saffron Hammam
On the side of the square is this former bath house that operates as a museum. Inside you can see its elegant marble floors, elaborate fountains and saunas.
Outside the main Medina
A lot of the streets in the medina are under covered roofs, making it dark inside. If they’re not covered, then still not a lot of light gets in due to the narrow lanes and tall buildings. After spending most of the day in the dark medina, we emerged into the sunlight. Our eyes were in shock and watered from the bright light. But there was still more of this city to explore.
Fez el- Jdid Medina
Fez’s second medina is much smaller and you won’t find much tourist garb for sale here. It is located in the New City, but Fez el-Jdid Medina, dates to the 13th century, so it’s not exactly new. It was built when the city was going through a dramatic expansion.
This area is also home to the former Jewish District called Mellah. Here, the Andalucian balconies were reminders of the Jews who fled from Spain. In the Mellah district, the old Ben Danan Synagogue is now a museum. There’s not a lot on display, but it is an interesting old building.
Walls and Gates
After exploring the inside, you can walk around the city wall to see its many gates. Here’s a sampling of what you’ll see.
You can also walk up to some of the old towers on the city wall for impressive views of the medina. On one hill are 14th century tombs from the Marinid Dynasty.
Tips for navigating Fez Medina
Visiting the largest medina in North Africa, can be overwhelming, especially if it’s your first Moroccan medina. But there are a few things to keep in mind that will help make your visit easier.
- With over 9,000 alleys, it is easy to get lost, but there are two main lanes that run almost parallel to each other. Tala’a Kebira (‘Big Slope’) and Tala’a Seghira (‘Little Slope’) extend from Bab Boujloud and Bab Chorfa to the Karaouine Mosque. All other lanes eventually join them. If you find yourself lost, follow the small lane back to one of these 2 main streets. You can recognize them because they are the widest alleys.
- The medina was built on a slope, so remember, if you are walking downhill, you are walking further into the medina. If you are walking uphill, you are walking toward a gate on the outer edge of the medina. Knowing this small detail saved us many times.
- Online maps don’t know the small lanes and alleys in the medina, but if you use Google Maps in Satellite View, you can see them. Because of the building density, the GPS locator may not be accurate so you can’t rely on that. Pay attention to where you begin and the general direction of travel. That will make it is easier to figure out where you are in the map at any time. This is true for most medinas in Morocco. But don’t constantly stare at your phone because this may draw the attention of touts wanting to ‘help’.
- If you are really lost ask a shop owner.
- Book a riad near one of the main gates such as Bab Boujloud, so you don’t have to walk deep into the medina with your luggage before you get a feel for its layout.
- There are touts, but they aren’t as bad as the rumors let you think. Remember though, if someone offers to show you the way, they expect to be paid. If you ignore them, or say a polite no and keep walking, they won’t usually bother you. But if you look interested, they will keep after you.
- The most aggressive touts are near the tannery. See the information on the tannery above, for more specific information on dealing with touts there.
How to get to Fez
Fès-Saïs International Airport is located just outside the city and receives flights from some European destinations as well as domestic. Fez is also easy to reach by train from Meknes (60 km), Casablanca (290 km), Rabat (200 km) and even as far away as Marrakesh (230 km). Train travel from Tangier requires a change in Rabat. CTM buses also travel frequently to Fez from many Moroccan cities.
You can find Fez just north of the centre of the map below. Click on the image to be directed to an interactive map.
Where to stay in Fez
The best place to fully absorb all this city has to offer is inside the medina. Try to book a riad that is located close to the two main streets or Bab Boujloud. This makes it a lot easier when you arrive in this hectic part of the city. This is true for most medinas in Morocco.
Most accommodations will be riads. Traditional riads are old homes with a central open courtyard that extends the entire height of the two or three-story buildings. Guest rooms open up to the courtyard. Because of this open design they tend to be noisy. If noise is a concern for you, we recommend to read the riad reviews carefully before booking. Some encourage a quiet, peaceful setting, while others encourage social gatherings in the common areas.
Most riads in Fez include breakfast and many serve them on their rooftops.
Where to eat in Fez
There are many very good restaurants inside the medina. Even though they are tourist spots, we had excellent meals at reasonable prices. With a variety of dishes from traditional Moroccan cuisine, Moroccan fusion to traditional western food, you have a lot of choices. As with many cities though, their version of a western dish may not be exactly what you expect, so you may want to stick with Moroccan. Our favourite was le tarbouche, which offers tasty Moroccan fusion dishes. You can find it on Google Maps.
How to dress in Fez
Locals are quite accustomed to tourists, but it is a conservative, Muslim city. You should dress respectfully by covering shoulders and legs. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter active mosques, so head scarves are not required. The streets are not the cleanest, so we recommended wearing closed-toe shoes and not sandals.
Click on the link to read our Travel Tips For Morocco.
To read more of our adventures in Morocco, click here.
Coming Next – The Grand Architectural Monuments in Meknes
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